A SCENE  ON  THE  GRAND  CANAL. 


. ’ Y,'  rrOrT 

. N 1 XU  aU  A Uxl 


' ~ jJi  0*aL>l  0 Cl  A 


HOMEW A R D ; 


OB, 

TRAVELS 


TV 

THE  HOLY  LAND, 

CHINA,  INDIA,  EGYPT,  AND  EUROPE. 

BY 

Rev.  J.  M.  W.  FARNHAM,  A.  M. 


“ Pleasant  was  the  Journey  Homeward” 

LONOmiOW. 

WITH  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


SCHENECTADY: 

YATES  AND  M01R,  PUBLISHERS. 
Shanghai:  Kelly  and  Walsh,  Yokohama:  Kelly  Sr  Co, 
London : Triilner  Sf  Co,  Boston : D.  Lothrop  Sf  Co. 


1879. 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1879,  by 
D.  LOTHKOP  & CO. 

In  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


TO 


T II  E T E IJ  S T E E S ANI)  FACUL  T T 
OF 

UNION  COLLEGE, 

MY 

ALMA  MATER, 

THIS  WORK  IS  RESPECTFULLY 


INSCRIBED. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/homewardortravelOOfarn 


PREFACE. 


After  many  years  of  Missionary  work  in 
China,  the  author,  with  his  family,  returned 
to  his  native  land  for  rest  and  iuvigoration. 
The  book  now  offered  to  the  public  is  made 
up  from  notes  of  the  journey.  It  was  in  the 
year  1872,  and  the  substance  of  some  of  these 
chapters  appeared  at  the  time  in  The  North- 
China  Herald,  New  York  Observer,  The 
Morning  Star,  and  other  newspapers.  The 
author  has  so  often  been  called  upon  for  in- 
formation as  to  the  best  route,  etc.,  that  he 
has  concluded  to  re -publish  these  articles  in 
book  form,  that  they  may  be  accessible  to  all. 
A letter,  dated  in  J erusalem,  was  recently  re- 
ceived from  a friend,  who  says : — 

“ I want  in  the  first  place  to  tell  you  how 


viii 


PREFACE. 


much  benefit  I have  derived  from  the  notes 
you  gave  me.  They  have  been  all  along  just 
the  thing  I needed,  and  better  than  any  guide- 
book.” 

The  route  which  the  reader  will  follow  in 
these  pages  was  marked  out  and  studied 
with  great  care  before  the  journey  was  begun, 
and  is  still  believed  to  embrace  the  most  in- 
teresting places  that  can  be  reached  without 
greater  expenditure  of  time  and  money. 

With  such  a book,  while  sitting  around  the 
fireside,  those  who  cannot  otherwise  enjoy 
the  pleasures  of  travel,  may  have  some  of  its 
enjoyments,  with  none  of  the  annoyances. 
To  those  who  travel  over  any  part  of  this  route 
it  may  be  useful  as  a hand-book. 

The  writer  has  availed  himself  of  every  aid 
within  his  reach,  often  adopting  the  language 
without  deeming  it  necessary  to  mention  the 
author;  so  that  the  reader  will  find  here 
much  information  culled  from  various  sources. 
He  may  also  be  assured  that  the  statements  are 
authentic,  or  generally  so  considered.  What 


PREFACE. 


ix 


the  author  has  not  personally  witnessed,  he 
has  spared  no  pains  to  verify,  consulting, 
besides  Murray’s,  and  numerous  other  guide 
books,  Prime's  Around  the  World , Seward's 
Around  the  World , Hendrix's  Around  the 
World , The  East  Through  the  West , by  Bishop 
Marvin;  Continental  and  Oriental  Travels , 
Her  Majesty's  Indian  Possessions , by  Cam- 
eron; etc.  etc. 

The  Missionary  Statistics  are  from  tables 
compiled  in  the  year  1877. 

The  writer  acknowledges  his  obligations  to 
Mrs.  E.  H.  Thomson,  who  has  kindly  revised 
the  sheets,  as  they  went  through  the  press, 
and  regrets  that  circumstances  prevented  some 
of  her  corrections  being  inserted. 

It  is  only  right  to  add  that  many  of  the 
illustrations  were  engraved  by  a pupil,  who 
has  had  only  such  imperfect  instruction  as 
the  author  was  able  to  give,  and  were  printed 
by  inexperienced  pressmen. 


CONTENTS. 


I. 

Leaving  Shanghai,  

PAGE. 

1 

IT. 

At  Sea, 

12 

in. 

Foochow,  

, ...  17 

IY. 

At  Sea  Again, 

29 

V. 

Hongkong,  

. ...  40 

VI. 

Hongkong  to- Singapore,  

48 

VII. 

Singapore,  

. ...  55 

VIII. 

Singapore, — Population,  Etc., 

64 

IX. 

Native  Tribes  of  Singapore 

. ...  67 

X. 

Singapore  to  Penang  and  Ceylon, 

73 

XI. 

The  Cingalese,  

78 

XII. 

Death  atJSea,  

84 

XIII. 

Ismailia  to  Cairo 

95 

XIY. 

Cairo. — Mosques  -and  Pyramids,  . . . 

100 

XV.* 

Cairo, — People — Dress,  Etc.,  ...  , 

107 

Xll 


COTNENTS 


XVI.  Cairo  to  Alexandria 

XYH.  Alexandria  to  Jaffa,  

XVIII.  Going  up  to  Jerusalem, 

XIX.  Jerusalem 

XX.  Bethlehem 

XXI.  Mount  Calvary,  

XXII.  Leaving  Jerusalem, 

XXIII.  In  Naples,  

£XIY.  Vesuvius  and  the  Buried  Cities, 

XXY.  Naples  to  Home, 

XXVI.  Florence,  Bologna,  and  Turin,  

XXVII.  Through  Mont  Cenis  Tunnel  to  Geneva,,,.. 

XXVIII.  Basle,  Strasburg,  and  Mayence,  

XXIX.  Down  the  Bhine — Paris,  ... 

XXX.  Sights  in  London,  

XXXI.  London  Parks  and  Churches,  

*■5  - 

XXXII  ’Newcastle  on-Tyne,  the  Lakes  etc,,  ... 

XXXIII.  The  Giant’s  Causeway 

XXXIV.  The  Irish  sea  and  Scottish  Highlands, 
XXXV.  Edinburgh— Crossing  the  Atlantic,  ... 


118 

124 

130 

139 

153 

164 

178 

184 

188 

202 

216 

226 

234 

241 

250 

261 

270 

279 

286 

295 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

Frontispiece,  faces  the  title  page. 

A country  scene  near  Shanghai,  ...  ...  3 

A view  on  the  Bund — Shanghai,  ...  5 

Presbyterian  mission  chapel — Shanghai,  ...  7 

Presbyterian  mission  houses — Shanghai,  faces  8 

A Shanghai  girl,  ...  ...  . . 9 

The  Shanghai  tea  gardens,  ...  10 

The  Ningpo  pagoda,  ...  ' ...  13 

The  banyan  tree,  . . ...  ...  24 

A street  scene,  ...  25 

Carrying  the  little  ones  to  church,  ...  26 

Worshipping  ancestors,  . . ...  27 

At  sea,  ...  ...  ...  ...  28 

Old  China  street — Canton,  ...  ...  33 

Presbyterian  mission  chapel — Canton,  ...  faces  Si- 
Fish  market — Canton,  ...  ...  ...  36 

A street  in  Canton,  ...  ...  88 


XVI 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


A funeral  procession, 

...  ... 

43 

A wedding  procession, 

... 

45 

Hongkong  harbor, 

. 

47 

Singapore, 

... 

50 

A scene  in  the  tropics, 

. 

52 

In  the  jungle, 

... 

56 

The  cocoanut, 

... 

57 

Cocoanut  trees, 

58 

A tiger, 

63 

A house  in  a tree, 

... 

68 

A Hindu  temple, 

... 

72 

Worshipping  Buddha’s  tooth, 

81 

Mount  Horeb,  

89 

A caravan, 

...  faces 

92 

Night  on  the  canal, 

93 

The  pyramids, 

102 

Egyptian  mummies, 

faces 

107 

Egyptian  Costume, 

<< 

108 

Dancing  Dervishes, 

«« 

115 

An  ancient  Egyptian  temple, 

(< 

116 

Scene  in  Egypt, 

120 

Pompey’s  pillar, 

a 

123 

Scene  in  Palestine, 

. 

133 

The  Dead  sea, 

a 

142 

A bridge  over  the  Jordan,  ... 

tt 

145 

The  village  of  Bethany, 

147 

Pool  of  Siloam, 

150 

Jerusalem,  

151 

The  garden  of  Gethsemane, 

152 

Rachel’s  tomb,  

155 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 


XVII 


Bethlehem,  ...  ...  ... 

158 

Bethlehem  as  you  eutei’  from  Jerusalem, 

... 

161 

Mount  of  Olives,  ...  ,,, 

166 

Mosque  of  Omar  from  the  wall, 

... 

170 

House  top  in  Palestine,  ...  ,,, 

172 

Remains  of  an  ancient  bridge, 

faces 

172 

The  Jews  wailing  place,  ...  ... 

faces 

175 

Oxen  treading  out  grain,  ,,,  ,,, 

... 

178 

Jaffa,  ...  ...  .,.  • 

,, 

180 

A view  near  Naples,  ...  ,,, 

... 

184 

Vesuvius  by  night,  ...  ,,, 

... 

196 

A street  in  Pompeii,  ...  ,,, 

... 

199 

Plaster  casts  of  Pompeians, 

... 

201 

A bridge  over  the  Tiber — Rome,  ,,, 

faces 

206 

The  catacombs, 

faces 

209 

The  coliseum,  ...  ...  ,,, 

faces 

212 

Florence, 

... 

219 

Leaning  tower  of  Pisa, 

• . « 

221 

An  armorial  hall,  ...  ,,, 

... 

224 

Crossing  Mount  Cenis,  ,,, 

... 

228 

Napoleon  crossing  the  Alps,  ,,, 

... 

231 

Bingen  on  the  Rhine,  ... 

... 

243 

Coblentz,  ...  ...  ...  ,,, 

faces 

245 

Cannon  street  railway  station,  ,,, 

251 

London  tower,  ...  ... 

... 

253 

Crystal  palace,  ...  • ,,, 

... 

257 

Sydenham  palace  fountains,  ,,, 

faces 

,259 

Clifton  bridge,  ...  ... 

faces 

260 

Holborn  viaduct,  ...  ,,, 

263 

Nottingham  market,  ...  ,,, 

• . i 

271 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 


xviii 


Wordsworth’s  home,  ...  ...  ...  274 

Grasmere  church,  ...  ...  ...  275 

The  Giant’s  causeway,  ...  ...  ...  284 

The  Skerry vore  light  house,  ...  ...  288 

View  of  Edinburgh  from  the  castle,  ...  297 

Sir  Walter  Scott’s  monument,  304 


HOMEWARD. 


HOMEWARD. 

-+XX+- 

I. 

LEAVING  SHANGHAI. 

Homeward  bound!  How  tlie  thought  thrills 
the  heart  of  one  long  in  exile. 

We  have  always  been  happy  at  our  work, 
never  home  sick  nor  lonely.  Every  day  freight- 
ed with  its  cares  has  passed  quickly  by.  Yet 
twelve  long  years  liaxe  come  and  gone  since 
we  left  our  home, 

“ The  dearest  spot  on  earth,” — 
to  which  every  day  will  now  bring  us  nearer. 
The  journey  lies  through  some  of  the  most 
interesting  countries  in  the  world,  and  is  the 
realization  of  the  fondest  dreams  of  boyhood. 

Leaving  not  a few  'with  tear  dimmed  eyes, 
and  receiving  many  tokens  of  affection  we 
went  on  board  the  steamer,  where  our  friends, 


2 


HOMEWARD. 


native  and  foreign,  had  assembled  to  bid  us 
farewell. 

While  the  steamer  is  delayed,  let  us  in  im- 
agination, stroll  about  the  locality  where  we 
have  spent  so  many  happy  days. 

Shanghai  is  a walled  city,  about  thirty 
miles  from  the  coast,  and  twelve  miles  up  the 
Wongpoo,  a branch  of  the  Yang-tse. 

As  we  steam  up  the  river  there  is  on 
each  side  a low,  flat  country,  with  not  a hill 
in  sight.  For  greater  security,  the  people  live 
in  hamlets,  dotting  the  country  here  and 
there  in  every  direction ; in  some  cases  so 
nearly  sheltered  by  trees,  that,  at  first  sight 
one  scarcely  notices  their  dark  tiled  roofs. 
The  low  brick  walls  are  usually  of  the  same 
sombre  color  as  the  roots ; though  sometimes 
when  plastered  and  whitewashed,  they  look 
quite  neat  and  pretty  among  the  green  foliage. 

There  are  no  forests  and  but  few  1 arge  trees. 
Numerous  canals,  spanned  by  arched  bridges, 
cross  the  country,  and  fleets  of  boats  moving 
with  the  tide  present  a lively  scene. 

The  immense  number  of  native  craft,  with 
tugs  and  large  steamers  passing  and  repassing, 
gives  the  traveler  notice  that  he  is  approach- 
ing a great  centre  of  trade,  and  such  indeed 
is  Shanghai.* 

* The  exports  and  imports  amounting  to  more  than  one 
hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  dollars  annually. 


COUNTRY  SCENE  NEAR.  SHANGHAI 


4 


HOMEWARD. 


As  you  draw  nearer,  extensive  wharves, 
store-houses,  docks,  ship  and  lumber  yards, 
greet  the  eye  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  A 
slight  turn  reveals  the  settlement  of  Shanghai, 
directly  ahead,  usually  giving  the  visitor  who 
sees  it  for  the  first  time,  a pleasant  surprise. 

Along  the  well  macadamized  streets,  all 
sorts  of  carriages  are  drawn,  by  almost  as 
great  a variety  of  horses.  The  place  is  lighted 
with  gas,  and  by  night  the  crescent-shaped 
bund,  with  its  double  row  of  lamp  posts,  and 
innumerable  lights  on  the  river,  presents  a 
gay  and  lively  appearance.  The  large  stores, 
beautiful  halls  and  churches,  and  palatial 
residences  of  the  merchants,  can  scarcely  be 
surpassed  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

Carriage  roads  furnish  pleasant  drives 
through  the  country  in  various  directions. 

The  plain  extends  for  many  miles  away, 
unbroken  by  the  slightest  elevation,  except 
the  innumerable  grave  mounds  which  abound 
every  where,  and  in  many  places  nearly  cover 
the  ground. 

The  soil  is  rich,  producing  good  crops  of 
cotton,  rice  and  other  grains,  besides  a great 
variety  of  vegetables.  A few  miles  away,  we 
enter  the  silk  districts,  where  mulberry  or- 
chards every  where  meet  the  eye. 

Above  the  foreign  settlements,  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river,  there  is  a densely  populated 


A VIEW  ON  THE  BUND— SHANGHAI 


6 


HOMEWARD. 


suburb,  extending  to  the  city  wall.  It  is  a mile 
or  more  in  length,  and  in  some  places  half  a 
mile  wide.  The  whole  population  of  city, 
settlement  and  suburb,  is  estimated  at  half 
a million. 

The  wall  around  the  city  is  about  three 
miles  in  circumference,  twenty-five  feet  high, 
and  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  broad.  It  is  sur- 
mounted u ith  a parapet,  and  guns  are  mount- 
ed at  the  embrasures  and  on  the  bastions. 
There  are  arched  gateways  through  the  walls, 
two'  upon  each  side,  except  the  west,  where 
there  is  but  one.  Double  doors,  thick  and 
iron  bound,  close  these  entrances  every  night 
about  dark. 

The  mission  houses  are  on  the  north,  south 
and  west,  some  near,  and  none  very  far  from 
the  city  gates.* 

One  of  their  chapels,  in  the  Chinese  style 
of  architecture,  is  seen  in  the  engraving.  It 
is  located  outside  of  the  wall,  between  the 
two  south  gates.  The  wing  is  devoted  to  a 

* Here  the  sainted  Medhurst  spent  much  ot  his  laborious 
life.  Bridgman,  Boone,  Culbertson  and  Lowrie  all  labored 
and  died  here. 

The  present  missionary  force  consists  of  the  following 
gentlemen  and  their  wives,  together  with  the  ladies  whose 
names  are  given. 

Rev.  W.  Muirhead,  Rev.  E.  R.  Barrett,  B.  A.,  Miss 
Bear,  Rev.  Samuel  Dyer,  B.  A.,  Rev.  Canon  MeClatchie,  M. 
A.,  Rev.  R.  Nelson,  D.  D.,  Rev.  E.  H.  Thomson,  Miss  L.  M. 
Fay,  Miss  Mary  Nelson.,  Rev.  J.  M.  W.  Farnham,  Rev. 
J.  S.  Roberts,  Rev.  W.  S.  Holt,  Rev.  J.  W.  Lambuth, 


PRESBYTERIAN  MISSION  CHAPEL — SHANGHAI. 


8 


HOMEWARD. 


boy’s  boarding  school.  In  the  engraving  on 
the  opposite  page,  the  building  on  the  right 
is  the  girl’s  boarding  school. 

Suppose  we  pass  in  with  the  crowd  and 
take  a look  at  the  city.  A flight  of  stone 
steps  leads  to  the  top  of  the  wall,  and  we 
look  out  upon  a sea  of  black  roofs.  There  are 
no  steeples  in  view,  and  only  here  and  there 
is  the  monotony  broken  by  the  tower  of  a 
mission  chapel. 

Upon  the  north  are  the  foreign  settlements, 
with  tower  and  spire.  To  the  east  is  the 
broad  Wongpoo,  and  turning  southward  the 
eye  traces  its  course  for  many  a mile,  winding 
among  fertile  fields,  looking  like  a silver 
thread  as  it  vanishes  in  the  distance.  Here 
is  ample  evidence  that  the  country  is  densely 
populated.  The  people  are  seen  crowding 


Rev.  W.  R.  Lambuth,  M.  D.,  Rev.  Y. 

J.  Allen,  D.  D., 

and  the  Rev.  M.  T. 

Yates,  P. 

D. 

Statistics  of  the 

Shanghai  Missions. 

Out 

Church 

Pupils  in 

Native 

S.  School 

Stations 

Members 

Schools  Preachers 

Scholars 

Am.  Bapt.  2 

86 

43 

3 

20 

„ Epis.  10 

170 

499 

5 

60 

„ Meth.  5 

112 

127 

6 

161 

,,  Presby.  2 
S.  Day  Bpt.  ... 

94 

130 

4 

206 

16 

56 

3 

Eng.  Ch. 

48 

1 

Lond.  Miss.  5 

184 

66 

5 

Totals.  24 

710 

921 

27 

347 

PRESBYTERIAN  MISSION  HOUSES— SHANGHAI 


THE  TEA  GARDENS. 


9 


the  streets  at  your  feet,  and  going  and  coming 
in  every  direction  in  the  distance. 

Whatever  a stranger  may  think,  one  who 
lives  among  them,  sees  many  interesting  faces. 

The  engraving,  shows  the  style  of  dressing 
the  hair,  and  costume  of  a Shanghai  girl. 


One  of  the  most  noted  places  within  the 
walls,  is  the  city  park  called  The  Tea  Gardens. 
Here  are  artificial  hills,  lakelets  and  rock- 
ery ; with  tea  houses,  pavilions  and  fantastic 


THE  SHANGHAI  TEA  GARDENS. 


IN  THE  CITY. 


11 


bridges.  An  adjoining  enclosure  contains  a 
few  specimens  of  wild  animals. 

Let  us  now  descend,  and  walk  through  tlie 
narrow  paved  streets.  They  are  usually  eight 
or  ten  feet  wide,  but  in  some  places,  one  with 
out-stretched  arms  may  touch  both  sides  at 
the  same  time.  The  houses  are  mostly  one  story, 
without  paint  or  whitewash.  No  bright  colors 
enliven  the  scene,  and  the  dark  gray  bricks 
and  weather-beaten  woodwork,  present  a som- 
bre and  uninviting  picture.  The  doors  of  the 
houses  open  on  the  street,  except  those  of  the 
better  classes,  where  you  pass  through  court 
after  court,  before  reaching  the  reception  room. 
The  farther  from  the  street  the  more  genteel, 
they  are  considered  to  be.  The  fronts  of  the 
shops  consist  of  moveable  doors,  which  are 
taken  away  in  the  m ning,  and  replaced  when 
the  stores  are  closed  at  night.  As  we  pass 
along,  one  gets  a good  view'-  of  the  shop- 
keepers, their  numerous  clerks  at  the  counters, 
and  the  great  variety  of  wares  tempting- 
ly exposed  for  sale.  The  sign  boards  are 
usually  vertical  instead  of  liorizomal,  sus- 
pended just  above  the  head,  with  beautiful 
gilt  letters  on  both  sides. 

We  can  often  in  this  way,  look  into  the 
houses  as  well  as  into  the  shops,  and  see  much 
of  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people. 
Though  most  of  the  domestic  work  is  done  in 


HOME  WARD. 


VI 

back  rooms,  or  courts  in  tlie  rear,  yet  we  often 
catch  glimpses  of  washing,  cooking,  etc.,  or 
even  what  they  deem  the  necessary  operation 
of  binding  the  little  girls’  feet,  the  children 
striving  and  crying  in  an  agony  of  pain. 

While  we  have  been  talking,  the  tide  has 
turned,  the  anchor  is  coming  up,  and  we 
must  bid  good  bye  to  Shanghai,  and  Shanghai 
friends. 


II. 

A T S E A . 

We  were  soon  outside  of  the  river,  the 
vessel  rolling  and  pitching  in  a way  likely  to 
make  a landsman  sick.  About  one  hundred 
miles  south  of  Shanghai,  we  pass  Ningpo. 
This  is  a large  city,  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
river  of  the  same  name,  twelve  miles  from  its 
mouth.  The  beautiful  scenery,  and  other  ob- 
jects of  interest,  well  repay  a visit.  Steamers 
ply  daily  between  here  and  Shanghai.  Mis- 
sionaries* have  probably  had  more  success 


* Missionaries  in  Vingpo.- — Church  Mission : — Bt.  Eev. 
Bishop  Eussell,  Eev.  F.  F.  Gough,  Eev.  J.  Bates,  Eev. 
A.  E.  Moule,  aud  their  wives,  Eev.  J.  C.  Hoare  and  Miss 
M.  Lawrence.  There  are  no  Missionaries  of  the  China  In- 
land Mission  in  Ningpo ; though  they  have  an  important 


NINGPO.  13 


THE  NINGPO  PAGODA. 


work  in  this  region.  Of  the  United  Methodist  Free  Church 
there  are  Rev.  R.  Swallow  and  wife  and  Rev.  F.  Galpin. 

The  Baptist  Missionary  Union  has  Rev.  J.  R.  Goddard, 
Rev.  S.  P.  Barchet  M.  D.  and  their  wives  and  Rev.  E.  C. 
Lord.  D.  I). 

The  American  Presbyterian  Missionaries  are  the  Rev. 
J.  A.  Leyenherger,  Rev.  John  Butler  and  their  wives  and 
Misses  Ketchum  and  Houston. 


14 


HOMEWARD. 


in  Ningpo  tlian  in  any  other  port  in  China, 
except  Foochow  and  Amoy,  in  a little  over 
two  days,  partially  recovered  from  the  sea- 
sickness, we  reached  the  month  of  the  Min. 
The  steamer  anchored  to  wait  for  the  tide,  and 
we  had  a few  hours  to  look  at  the  shores  and 
the  entrance  to  this  beautiful  river. 

At  length  the  anchor  was  taken  up,  and  we 
found  ourselves  in  a narrow,  crooked  stream, 
with  high  mountains  on  both  sides.  Here, 
they  are  sloping,  terraced  and  cultivated ; 
there,  abrupt,  barren  and  rocky.  A quarry 
is  being  worked  near  the  top,  and  the  products 
are  slid  down  a well-worn  path  to  the  water’s 
edge,  whence  they  are  taken  upon  boats  to 
Foochow,  for  building  purposes. 

At  the  Anchorage,  the  Chinese  have  a large 
arsenal,  with  extensive  foundries  and  machine 
shops.  Here  they  build  fine  gunboats  after 
the  most  approved  models,  and  manufacture 
cannons  and  small  arms. 

All  the  large  sailing  vessels  and  steamers 

Statistics  ot  the  Ningpo  Missions. 

Out  Church  Pupils  in  Native  S.  School 
Stations  Members  Schools  Preachers  Scholars 
Am.  Bapt.  19  301  91  23  50 

,,  Presby.  17  454  148  18 

Inland.  9 136  30  11 

Eng.  Ch.  13  247  226  18  40 

„ Meth.  6 151 49  8 ... 

Totals.  64  1289  544  78  90 


PAGODA  ANCHORAGE. 


15 


that  visit  this  port  anchor  here.  Small  craft 
ascend  to  the  city  but  cannot  go  above  it,  on 
account  of  the  falls  just  there.  From  the  An- 
chorage to  the  city,  the  hills  gradually  dis- 
appear or  come  sloping  down  to  the  water’s 
edge  from  a great  distance. 

As  the  steamer  cast  anchor  aud  swung  round 
with  the  tide,  we  stepped  into  a Chinese  boat, 
chartered  to  take  us  to  the  city.  With  wind 
and  tide  favoring,  our  little  craft  flew  over 
the  water  like  a bird. 

It  was  past  the  middle  of  February,  and 
though  milder  than  in  Shanghai,  it  was  still  a 
cold  day ; with  overcoats  on  and  wrapped  iu 
rugs  we  could  scarcely  keep  warm.  The  boat- 
man had  his  wife  and  family  living  on  board. 
There  were  two  children,  one  about  a year, 
and  the  other  a little  more  than  two  years 
old ; they  both  had  bare  feet,  red  with  cold, 
yet  they  seemed  used  to  it,  and  appeared 
cheerful  and  happy. 

Orange  and  banyan  groves,  looking  green 
and  luxuriant,  are  a pleasing  feature  of  the 
landscape.  The  winter  grain  is  from  eight 
inches  to  a foot  in  height,  and  the  whole  aspect 
of  the  country  is  more  that  of  advanced 
spring,  than  of  midwinter. 

As  Foochow  conies  in  sight,  we  see  the 
chain  of  mountains  surrounding  it,  some  ten  or 
fifteen  miles  away,  rising  in  abrupt  and  lofty 


16 


HOMEWARD. 


peaks,  or  killing  off  into  gentle  undulations. 
The  visitor  cannot  fail  to  admire  the  charm- 
ing and  romantic  scenery  lying  between 
the  mouth  of  the  Min  and  Foochow.  It 
has  been  thought  by  some  European  travelers, 
to  resemble  the  scenery  of  Switzerland  in  its 
picturesqueness  and  grandeur;  others  have 
compared  it  with  that  of  the  Rhine  and  Hud- 
son. In  grandeur  and  beauty,  it  seems  scarce- 
ly to  out-rival  the  Hudson.  How  it  com- 
pares with  t lie  Rhine  we  hope  to  see  ere  long. 


III. 

FOOCHOW. 

Foochow  is  a walled  city,  having  seven 
massive  gates,  which  are  shut  at  nightfall  and 
opened  at  day-break.  Over  each  ot  the  gates 
are  high  towers,  overlooking  and  command- 
ing the  approach  to  them.  At  intervals  on 
the  walls  are  built  small  guard-houses.  The 
walls  are  composed  of  earth  and  stones  and 
are  twenty-five  feet  high,  and  about  twenty 
feet  wide.  The  inner  and  outer  surfaces  are 
faced  with  stone  or  brick,  and  the  top  is 
paved  with  granite  flag  stones.  The  circuit 
of  the  walls  is  about  seven  miles,  and  can  be 
traversed  on  the  top  in  sedan-chairs,  or  on 
foot,  affording  a variety  of  novel  and  interest- 
ing views  in  quick  succession. 

It  has  become  by  rapid  strides,  one  of  the 


18 


HOMEWARD. 


most  important  of  the  consular  ports  in  China 
for  the  purchase  of  black  teas,  of  which 
fifty  eight  millions  of  pounds  have  been  ex- 
ported in  a single  year. 

It  has  a large  trade  with  other  ports  on  the 
sea-coast  by  means  of  native  craft,  as  well  as 
in  foreign  vessels,  giving  and  receiving  some 
of  the  luxuries  and  the  necessaries  of  life. 

Not  unfrequently  there  are  twenty-five  or 
thirty  sailing  vessels  and  steamers  of  different 
nationalities  at  the  Anchorage,  discharging  or 
receiving  their  cargoes. 

Opposite  the  city  there  is  a slight  fall  or 
rapid,  and  just  above,  a small  island.  The  river 
flows  from  west  to  east,  and  a good  substantial 
stone  bridge  spans  it  on  a line  with  the  island. 
It  is  called  by  the  natives  The  Bridge  of  Ten 
Thousand  Ages.  It  is  said  to  have  been  built 
eight  hundred  years  ago,  and  is  about  one 
quarter  of  a mile  long,  and  thirteen  or  fourteen 
feet  wide.  It  has  nearly  forty  solid  buttresses, 
situated  at  unequal  distances  from  each  other, 
shaped  like  a wedge  at  the  upper  and  lower 
ends,  and  built  of  hewn  Granite.  Immense 
stones,  some  of  them  nearly  three  feet  square 
and  forty-five  feet  long,  extend  from  buttress 
to  buttress,  acting  as  sleepers.  Above  these 
stone  sleepers,  a granite  platform  is  made. 
On  the  sides  of  the  bridge  are  strong  stone 
rails  morticed  into  large  stone  pillars. 


VIEWS  ABOUT  FOOCHOW. 


19 


To  the  northwest,  and  distant  six  or  seven 
miles,  is  another  celebrated  stone  bridge,  ac- 
ross the  Min,  called  the  “ Bridge  of  the  Cloudy 
Hills.”  The  scenery  in  its  vicinity  is  moun- 
tainous and  interesting.  These  two  bridges 
are  built  in  the  same  style. 

The  foreign  residents  live  principally  on 
the  hill  near  the  southern  bank  of  the  Min. 
Our  first  view  of  the  city  was  from  this  em- 
inence, and  being  at  night  there  was  little  to 
be  seen  but  the  dim  outline  of  the  city  and  its 
myriad  lights.  In  a clear  day  the  scenery  from 
this  point  is  beautiful.  To  the  eastward,  loom- 
ing up  five  or  six  miles  distant,  is  “Drum 
Mountain.”  Nearer  is  the  river,  with  its  mul- 
titude of  junks  and  boats.  As  one  glances 
in  a more  northerly  direction,  parts  of  the  city 
come  within  range.  In  it  the  white  pagoda  and 
the  watch-tower  are  prominent  objects.  Black 
Rock  Hill  is  also  conspicuous,  and  nearer,  in 
the  suburbs,  are  seen  Great  Temple  Hill  and 
several  spacious  foreign  hongs.  To  the  north- 
west and  the  west  the  numerous  boats  on  the 
river,  and  the  distant  hills  present  a diversified 
and  striking  appearance. 

From  the  top  of  the  Great  Temple  Hill, 
looking  toward  the  south,  the  prospect  is  also 
fine.  Probably  there  is  not  a better  stand 
point  in  the  suburbs  than  this,  for  a view  of 
the  most  prominent  objects  in  the  valley  of  the 


20 


HOMEWARD. 


Min.  Tlie  river,  spread  out  to  the  west,  south, 
and  east,  covered  with  its  countless  boats,  the 
bridges  on  each  side  of  Middle  Island,  with 
their  passing  throng,  foreign  hongs,  the  British 
consulate,  flag-staffs  and  flags  of  various  nation- 
alities, form  a varied  and  interesting  picture. 
In  the  distance  to  the  south  are  the  Five 
Tigers,  and  other  ranges  of  hills.  To  the  east 
and  west  are  highly-cultivated  plains,  vill- 
ages, canals,  etc.  On  the  north,  the  city  is 
seen,  much  more  distinctly  than  from  the  hill 
on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river. 

We  walked  leisurely  through  the  suburb,  be- 
tween the  north  bank  and  the  city,  and  entering 
one  of  the  gates,  examined  as  wre  went,  the 
various  manufactures  and  articles  of  merchan- 
dise, rarely  seen  in  more  northern  cities.  So 
similar  is  the  language  to  the  dialects  spoken 
farther  north,  that  there  was  less  difficulty  in 
communicating  than  had  been  anticipated.* 

Just  after  entering  the  city  gate,  we  ascended 
Black  Bock  Hill.  It  is  300  feet  high,  command- 
ing a good  view  of  the  city,  settlement  and  sur- 
rounding country.  One  can  trace  the  -walls,  seven 
or  eight  miles  in  circumference,  and  note  the 

* A Comparative  Grammar,  showing  the  relation  of  all 
these  dialects,  will  be  an  interesting  work  for  some  philol- 
ogist. The  late  Rev.  Mr.  Krolczyk,  of  Hongkong,  drew  up 
a tabular  statement,  giving  a view  of  many  of  the  dialects 
in  the  South,  which  would  seem  to  constitute  the  greater 
part  of  the  labor  connected  with  such  a work, 


MISSIONARIES  IN  FOOCHOW. 


21 


towers  over  the  gates.  The  city  is  within  an 
amphitheatre  of  hills  from  four  to  seven  miles 
distant.  The  view  presents  an  undulating 
country  near  the  city,  with  hills  and  mountains 
in  the  distance,  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet  high. 
The  ridge  by  which  the  city  is  so  nearly  sur- 
rounded, has  a single  gap  on  the  west,  through 
which  the  rivgr  finds  its  way,  and  another  on 
the  East  furnishing  an  outlet.  Both  branches 
may  be  traced,  also  the  outline  of  the  beautiful 
island  which  is  nearly  covered  with  orange 
groves.  The  country  is  looking  fresh  and  green, 
and  the  season  is  much  in  advance  of  Shanghai. 
It  is  only  a little  past  the  middle  of  February, 
yet  the  peach  trees  are  in  full  bloom.  The 
weather  is  perceptibly  milder,  and  it  is  very 
pleasant  passing  in  a couple  of  days,  from 
winter  to  spring. 

The  residences  of  the  missionaries  may  all 
be  seen  from  this  point.*  Two  of  the  American 


* Missionaries  in  Foochow. — Of  the  English  Church 
there  are  the  Rev.  J.  R.  Woolfe  and  the  Rev.  R.  W. 
Stewart  and  their  wives. 

Of  the  American  Board  there  are  the  Rev.  C.  C.  Bald- 
win, D.  D.,  Rev.  Charles  Hartwell,  Rev.  S.  F.  Woodin, 
D.  W.  Osgood,  M.  D.,  Rev.  J.  F.  Walker,  Rev.  J.  B. 
Blakley,  and  their  wives  and  Miss  A.  M.  Payson. 

The  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  has  the- Rev.  S.  L. 
Baldwin,  Rev.  1ST.  Sites,  Rev.  F.  Ohlinger,  Rev.  1ST.  J. 
Plumb,  Rev.  D.  W.  Chandler,  and  their  wives ; and  Miss 
B.  Woolston,  Miss  S.  H.  Woolston  and  Miss  S.  Trask,  M.  D. 


22 


HOMEWARD. 


Board’s  missionaries  occupy  houses  on  the  side 
of  a hill  in  the  city,  and  two  more  live  on  a 
slight  eminence,  between  the  city  and  settle- 
ment. The  Methodists  have  several  houses, 
a church  and  printing  establishment  on  the 
hill  nearly  behind  the  settlement.  Here  is 
the  Church  Mission  contending  with  a Buddhist 
temple  for  the  top  of  the  hill.  On  one  side  of 
the  temple  is  a girls’  school,  on  the  other  a 
boys’,  and  on  the  third  the  missionary’s  dwell- 
ing. It  is  said  that  the  priests  regret  ever 
leasing  these  sites. 

On  the  way  up  we  visited  them  schools. 
Passing  through  the  court-yard  we  approached 
the  door  leading  to  the  school,  supposing  it  to 
be  on  the  same  plain;  but  imagine  our  surprise 
when  the  door  opened,  and  we  looked,  not  as 
we  expected,  into  the  school-room,  but  directly 
over  the  school-house  (some  thirty  feet  down 
the  hill),  the  doorway  commanding  a most  un- 
expected and  magnificent  view  of  the  city  and 
hills  beyond.  Our  surprises  at  the  girls’  school 
were  hardly  less.  Having  enjoyed  the  fine 
prospect  from  the  hill,  our  guide  turned  his 

Statistics  of  the  Foochow  Missions. 

Out  Church  Pupils  in  Native  S.  School 

Stations  Members  Schools  Preachers  Scholars 


Am.  Board 

16 

175 

136 

19 

90 

,,  Meth. 

76 

1254 

469 

80 

54 

Eng.  Ch. 

85 

800 

127 

85 

40 

Totals. 

177 

2229 

732 

184 

184 

A SURPRISE. 


23 


steps  towards  the  large  Buddhist  temple,  which 
he  had  spoken  of  as  worth  a visit.  It  seemed 
strange  that  he  should  rap  at  the  gate  and  that 
a little  girl  should  come  to  open  it,  but  in  a 
moment  after  entering  the  court  we  discovered 
our  mistake — it  was  not  the  temple,  but  a 
Mission  school,  in  a foreign  house,  formerly  the 
residence  of  a missionary.  After  seeing  the 
school  and  several  of  the  rooms,  we  passed 
through  a door  which  seemed  to  open  into 
another  paid  of  the  mission  premises,  perhaps 
the  school-room  or  chapel ; but  great  was 
our  surprise  on  crossing  the  threshold  to  find 
ourselves  in  the  court  of  a heathen  temple, 
surrounded  with  all  the  paraphernalia  for 
idolatrous  worship.  The  door  is  not  ordinarily 
used,  but  the  gentleman  in  charge  took  us:  by 
this  direct  way,  to  the  temple.  It  seems  that 
a former  occupant  had  a book-case  over  this 
doorway,  one  door  of  which  opened  into  the 
book  shelves  and  the  other  into  the  court  of 
the  temple;  persons  who  came  in  by  this  door 
were  at  a loss  to  discover  the  entrance,  others 
opening  the  book-case  were  equally  astonish- 
ed to  find  themselves  in  the  midst  of  a 
temple ! 

Foochow  contains  within  its  walls  three 
principal  hills,  two  in  its  southern  and  one  in 
its  northern  quarter.  Hence  it  is  sometimes 
called  the  Three  Hills.  It  is  also  frequently 


24 


HOMEWARD. 


A single  tree  with  its  outstretched  branches 
sometimes  shades  a space  of  ground  from  one 
hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
diameter. 


styled  the  Banyan  City , on  account  of  the 
great  number  of  mock  banyan  trees  which  are 
growing  every  where  in  the  city  and  vicinity. 
The  branches  of  this  species  seldom  extend  to 
the  ground  and  take  root,  like  the  Indian 
banyan,  though  they  sometimes  do. 


THE  BAHT  AN  TREE. 


A STREET  SCENE, 


26 


HOMEWARD. 


The  streets  are  paved  with  granite  flag- 
stones. If  a hill  occurs  in  the  street,  it  is 
ascended  and  descended  by  means  of  a flight 
of  stone  steps.  On  this  account,  even  if  the 
streets  were  wide  enough,  no  wheeled  vehicle 
could  be  used  in  them.  Merchandise,  furni- 


CARRYING  THE  LITTLE  ONES  TO  CHURCH. 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 


27 


ture,  etc.,  are  carried  to  and  fro  through  the 
streets  by  coolies. 

The  engraving,  on  the  opposite  page,  repre- 
sents a methed  sometimes  adopted,  for  carry- 
ing children. 


The  Chinaman  in  worshipping  his  ancestors, 
lights  candles  and  burns  incense  setting  out 
various  kinds  of  food.  He  prays  to  his  deified 
Ancestors,  as  Christians  do  to  God. 

One  of  the  most  noticeable  differences  in 
the  costume  of  the  people,  is  the  head  dress  of 
the  women.  The  Foochow  woman  wears 
several  silver  pins,  five  or  six  inches  long,  stuck 
into  the  back  part  of  her  hair,  with  two  or 


WORSHIPPING  ANCESTORS. 


28 


HOMEWARD. 


thiee  behind  a little  border,  arching  over  like 
the  plumage  of  a domestic  fowl.  Besides  these 
and  her  small  feet,  (resembling  horses’  hoofs) 
she  prides  herself  in  one  other  ornament, 
silver  earrings,  not  less  than  two  inches  and 
a half,  or  three  inches  in  diameter,  which 
seem  indispensable. 

Foochow,  including  its  large  suburbs,  one  of 
which  is  about  three  miles  long,  is  said  to 
contain  a million  of  inhabitants.  In  the  number 
of  its  foreign  residents  and  importance  of  its 
commerce,  it  claims  to  be  second  only  to 
Shanghai.  Canton,  long  since  obliged  to  yield 
the  palm  to  Shanghai,  will  not  willingly  give 
up  the  second  rank  to  Foochow,  or  to  her 
only  other  rival,  Hankow. 

We  were  allowed  but  two  days  to  enjoy 
the  society  of  Foochow  friends,  and  the  really 
beautiful  natural  scenery  of  this  region. 


IV. 


AT  SEA  AGAIN. 

Nearly  two  hundred  miles  south  of  Foo- 
chow, we  have  Amoy  on  the  right  and  For- 
mosa on  the  left. 

Formosa  has  the  honor  of  having  possession 
of  the  first  rail  road,  owned  by  the  Chinese 
government.  Whether  it  will  ever  be  op- 
erated is  a question. 

There  are  important  Christian  Missions  on 
both  islands.* 

* Missionakies  in  Amoy. — Of  the  London  Mission  there 
are  the  Eev.  J.  Sadler  and  his  wife. 

The  English  Presbyterian  Mission  has  the  Rev.  G. 
Smith,  Rev.  W.  S.  Swanson,  Rev.  W.  McGregor,  Rev.  R. 
Gordon  and  their  wives.  The  Reformed  Church  has  Rev. 
J.  V.  N.  Talmage,  D.  D.,  Rev.  L.  W.  Kip,  and  their  wives 
and  Miss  H.  M.  Van  Doren. 

Statistics  of  the  Amoy  Missions. 


Out 

Church 

Pupils  in 

Native 

S.  School 

Stations  Members 

Schools 

Preachers 

Scholars 

Refd.  Ch.  14 

591 

115 

15 

Lond.  Miss.  22 

672 

49 

20 

Eng.  Presby.  24 

641 

138 

24 

Totals.  50 

1904 

302 

69 

30 


HOMEWARD. 


We  were  two  days  in  reaching  Hongkong- 
On  arriving  we  went  immediately  to  the  Can- 
ton steamer,  without  even  landing.  The  walk- 
ing beam  was  already  in  motion,  and  we 
had  barely  time  to  get  on  board  before  she 
moved  off. 

There  are  two  of  these  steamers  on  the 
line,  running  alternate  days.  They  call  them 
American  steamers — under  English  colors, 
might  be  added.  They  leave  Hongkong  at 
eight  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  reach  Canton 
early  in  the  afternoon.  The  change  from  the 
tumbling,  pitching,  rolling  steamship,  with  its 
many  disagreeable  odors,  to  this  clean,  com- 
modious, well  ventilated  river  steamer,  mov- 
ing along  up  the  bay  without  the  slightest 
“ motion  ” seemed  like  being  transported  to 
fairyland.  The  distance  to  Canton  is  ninety 
miles,  forty-five  miles  on  the  narrow  bay,  and 
forty-five  on  the  Pearl  River. 

The  hills  that  bound  the  bay  are  barren  and 
uninteresting,  but  after  entering  the  river, 
sloping  hills  and  broad  valleys  meet  the  eye, 
especially  above  Whampoa. 


Statistics  op  thp 

: Formosa  Missions. 

Out 

Church 

Pupils  in 

Native 

S.  School 

Stations 

Members 

Schools 

Preachers 

Scholars 

Eng.  Presby.  25 

967 

80 

24 

Canadian.  „ 11 

147 

85 

12 

Totals.  36 

1114 

165 

36 

ON  THE  PEARL  RIVER. 


31 


The  old  forts  lining  the  banks  are  known  in 
history  as  the  “ Bogue  ” forts  and  played  a 
conspicuous  part  in  the  Opium  or  “Arrow” 
war. 

A.  good  tiffin  was  served  at  one  o’clock.  As 
far  as  soup  and  fish,  entrees  and  courses  were 
concerned,  it  might  fairly  be  classed  with  that 
species  of  meal  generally  denominated  dinner. 
After  recent  experiences  of  sea-sickness,  we 
were  prepared  to  enjoy  uny thing,  provided  it 
was  not  on  the  sea,  and  we  did  enjoy  the  boat 
and  society,  the  scenery,  and  especially  the 
dinner. 

Within  about  twelve  miles  of  Canton  we 
pass  Whampoa  on  the  left.  Here  are  fine 
docks,  a few  foreign  houses,  and  the  larger 
vessels  which  enter  the  river,  the  water  being 
too  shallow  to  allow  them  to  proceed  to  Can- 
ton. There  are  a few  steamers  and  sailing 
vessels  lying  here,  but  not  much  appearance 
of  business.  Several  pagodas  are  to  be  seen, 
differing  in  their  style  of  architecture  from 
those  in  the  north  of  China.  The  banyan 
and  other  evergreen  trees  make  the  country 
look  quite  cheerful  even  in  winter. 

A Tong  line  of  low  hills  commence  just  west 
of  Canton,*  and  running  close  past  it  on  the 


* Canton  is  called  The  City  of  Rams,  because  five  genii 
once  visited  it,  riding  on  rams. 


32 


HOMEWARD. 


north,  extend  east  towards  Hongkong.  Ap- 
proaching by  steamer,  the  city  wall  is  seen 
crossing  one  of  these  hills,  near  a five  storied 
pagoda. 

Numerous  peculiar  structures,  resembling 
towers,  attract  attention  as  you  overlook  the 
city.  They  are  high  square  buildings,  with  flat 
roofs.  The  substantial  unplastered  brick  walls 
are  pierced  with  small  iron  grated  windows. 
These  are  pawn-shops,  and  in  the  different 
floors  are  stored  the  thousands  and  thousands 
of  different  articles,  from  almost  worthless  to 
those  which  are  very  valuable.  Buckets  of 
water  are  ready  in  case  of  fire,  (of  which 
they  are  so  fearful  that  smoking  is  not  allowed 
inside),  and  on  the  house-top,  which  commands 
a view  to  a good  distance,  are  heaps  of 
brickbats  and  other  missiles,  for  use  in  case 
of  attack  by  robbers.  Most  of  the  goods  are 
only  redeemed  once  a year — prior  to  their 
great  festival,  the  New  Year,  and  then  pledged 
again ! The  unredeemed  goods  are  sold  at 
auction. 

The  next  strange  object  that  strikes  the  eye 
is  still  more  unsightly.  All  over  the  city,  far 
above  the  housetops,  higher  than  the  tower- 
like pawnshops,  perched  upon  the  frailest 
kind  of  a bamboo  structure,  are  little  houses, 
just  large  enough  to  accommodate  one  man. 
They  are  watch-towers,  erected  and  kept  up 


OLD  CHINA  STREET  CANTON, 


34 


SOME  WARD. 


only  during  tlie  d y weather.  The  watchman’s 
du  y is  to  look  o x for,  and  report  the  break- 
ing out  of  any  fire. 

The  river  forks  opposite  the  city,  uni  ing 
near  W'  nipoa.  Here  is  a commodious  axd 
safe  liar  , wi  tli  a large  number  of  steamers 
and  saili  ve  -els  at  anchor.  The  river  runs 
nearly  cost,  and  near  the  north  bank  is  a 
small  island  containing  most  of  the  foreign 
residences  and  business  places.  It  is  entirely 
surrounded  by  a strong  well  built  stone  em- 
bankment. A broad  street  runs  round  it 
next  to  the  water,  and  another  through  the 
middle  from  east  to  west.  The  buildings  front 
on  the  river. 

This  pretty  foreign  settlement  is  called  Cha- 
ining, and  contains  more  than  forty  fine  build- 
ings besides  a church  built  of  white  marble. 

The  city  wall  runs  parallel  to  the  north 
bank,  but  a short  distance  from  the  river,  with 


Missionaries  in  Canton. — Of  the  London  Mission 
there  are  the  Rev.  J.  Chalmers,  M.  A.  and  Mrs.  Chalmers. 

Of  the  Wesleyan  Mission  the  Rev.  Messrs  Piercy, 
Gibson  Whitehead  and  their  wives ; and  Rev.  Messrs 
Sinigininex,  Jackson  and  Friend,  and  Misses  Radcliffe, 
Simpson,  Rowe  and  Taylor. 

The  American  Presbyterian  Missionaries  are  Rev.  A. 
P.  Happer,  D.  D.  Rev.  B.  C.  Henry,  J.  F.  Carrow  M.  D. 
and  their  wives,  and  Misses  Xoyes,  Happer  and  Crouch. 

The  American  Baptist  Union  has  the  Rev.  R.  H. 
Graves,  M.  D.  Rev.  E.  Z.  Simmons,  Rev.  X.  B.  Williams 
and  their  wives,  and  Miss  L.  Whilden.  The  Rhenish  Mis- 
sion has  the  Rev.  F.  Hiibrig  and  Mrs.  Hiibrig. 


PRESBYTERIAN  MISSION  CHAPEL,  AT  CANTON. 


JR  ATS  AND  PUPPIES  FOR  PIES. 


35 


a dense  suburb  between.  There  is  another 
large  suburb  on  the  South  side  of  the  river. 
The  streets  and  buildings  are  finer  than  in 
most  other  Chinese  cities. 

During  all  our  residence  in  China,  we  could 
never  divine  how  it  was  that  the  school 
geography,  we  studied  in  childhood,  represent- 
ed “the  Chinese  selling  rats  and  puppies  for 
pies,”  but  here  Avas  the  solution.  Almost  the 
first  thing  A\  e met  was  a market  for  puppies 
and  kittens,  and  not  far  aAvay  were  stalls 
perhaps  the  identical  ones  from  Avhich  the 
picture  had  been  made — and  here  hang  the 
rats  in  bunches,  so  dried  and  mummy  look- 
ing, that  they  might  be  the  very  ones 
Avlnch  hung  for  their  picture  some  thirty 
years  ago,  but  that  this  food  is  said  to  make 
the  hair  grow  upon  bald  heads,  ami  is  there- 
fore likely  to  be  in  great  demand.  It  Avas  late 
in  the  day  Avhen  we  visited  the  saloon  Avhere 
dog  meat  is  served  up.  YYe  were,  therefore 
unable  to  secure  a puppy  stew  or  dog  cutlet’ 


Statistics  of  the  Canton  Missions. 

Oat  Church  Pupils  in  Native  S.  School 
Stations  Members  Schools  Preachers  Scholars 


Rhenish 

11 

318 

218 

15 

Eng.  Meth. 

3 

137 

290 

7 

Am.  Bapt. 

3 

159 

140 

6 

„ Presby. 

, 4 

250 

113 

B 

Totals. 

21 

•o 

0° 

761 

38 

I 


EATING  DOG’S  MEAT. 


37 


The  vendor,  who  was  in  the  act  of  washing 
up  his  dishes,  assured  us  that  he  would  have 
a supply  on  the  morrow.  We  objected  to 
the  stall  fed  dog  we  saw  tied  up,  saying  “We 
never  eat  black  dog’s  meat.”  He  replied  that 
he  should  keep  that  one  till  fatter.  Not  far 
away,  we  visited  a tea  garden  or  Chinese 
restaurant.  The  buildings  were  nearly  new, 
a fine  specimen  of  native  architecture ; the 
grounds  were  neatly  laid  out  with  wralks,  and 
ornamented  witli  flowers,  shrubs,  and  trees. 
Immense  mirrors,  with  heavy  gilt  frames,  re- 
flected and  multiplied  the  saloons  and  courts. 
The  kitchen  attached  was  large  and  scrupu- 
lously clean.  All  sorts  of  dishes,  in  various 
stages,  were  being  prepared  on  tables  arrang- 
ed along  the  sides  of  the  room,  but  nothing 
was  seen  to  offend  the  eye  of  the  most  fas- 
tidious. 

In  the  temple  of  The  Five  Hundred  Gods 
are  five  hundred  gilt  effigies  of  those  who  have 
been  deified.  Some  have  received  this  honor 
for  self  torture,  such  as  holding  their  hands 
or  arms  in  a certain  position,  sitting  or 
standing  in  one  attitude  till  crippled.  The 
images  exhibit  them  in  these  various  positions 
and  attitudes. 

Learning  that  women,  adjudged  worthy  of 
death,  w^ere  crucified,  we  felt  some  interest 
in  visiting  the  execution  ground  to  see  the 


A STREET  IN'  CANTON 


THE  EXECUTION  GROUND. 


39 


crosses.  This  little  spot,  which  in  one  year 
drank  the  blood  of  some  sixty  or  seventy 
thousand,  is  in  the  midst  of  the  city,  about 
thirty  feet  wide  and  two  hundred  long.  Forty 
persons  had  been  beheaded  a day  or  two  be- 
fore, and  there  were  forty  pools  of  clotted 
gore ! Picking  o ^ way  through  them,  we 
reached  the  further  end,  where,  leaning 
against  the  wall,  were  three  crosses,  made  of 
round  poles,  about  three  inches  in  diameter, 
and  twelve  feet  long,  the  cross  piece  being  at 
right  ano;les,  and  four  feet  long.  A new 
wedge  had  been  introduced  into  the  joint 
of  o le  of  them,  and  the  large  cracks  at  the 
lower  end  were  filled  with  fresh  sand.  A 
little  closer  observation  revealed  the  print  of 
the  rope  in  the  wood,  showing  how  tightly  it 
had  been  drawn  around  the  victim’s  feet  or 
ankles.  The  neighbors  told  us  a woman  had 
been  crucified  a few  days  before,  and  her  suf- 
ferings at  length  terminated  by  strangulation. 
Large  earthen  jars  contained  the  skulls  of 
those  most  recently  executed,  and  heaps  of 
ashes  and  half-burnt  rags  showed  the  spots 
where  the  clothes  of  the  victims  had  been 
burnt.  We  never  turned  with  more  loathing 
and  disgust  from  any  spot. 

In  the  temples  visited,  were  multitudes 
zealously  worshipping  their  idols.  It  is  said 
there  has  been  a great  revival  of  idolatry, 


40 


HOMEWARD. 


and  several  hundred  thousand  dollars  expend- 
ed in  rebuilding  an  1 repairing  temples. 

The  shops  for  the  sale  of  articles  manu- 
factured from  precious  stones,  gold  and  silver, 
ivory,  etc.,  are  very  numerous,  and  display 
goods  of  great  variety  an  1 beauty. 


V. 

HONGKONG  AGAIN. 

Tins  island  is  nine  miles  long  and  four 
wide.  It  consists  of  a rugged  volcanic  ridge, 
running  from  east  to  west.  There  are  six 
peaks  from  one  thousand  to  nineteen  hundred 
feet  high.  The  harbour  had  long  been  known 
as  safe  and  commodious,  but  was  not  much 
used  till  during  the  war,  when  foreign  vessels 
anchored  here  in  great  number,  and  the  settle- 
ment  naturally  sprung  up  on  shore  which  took 
the  name  of  Hongkong,  “fragrant  streams,” — 
the  name  applied  by  the  natives  to  the  locality, 
on  account  of  the  fine  clear  streams  of  water 
in  the  neighborhood.  The  city  is,  unfortunate- 
ly, on  the  north  side  of  the  highest  peak  of 
the  mountain,  exposed  to  the  cold  blasts  of 
winter,  and  sheltered  from  the  cooling  breezes 
of  summer. 


HONGKONG. 


41 


There  is  no  occasion  here  for  weary  ascent 
of  tower  or  hill  to  get  a view  of  the  city. 
As  the  enterprising  shopkeeper  exposes  his 
goods  upon  shelves  one  above  the  other,  so 
the  people  of  Hongkong  exhibit  their  pretty 
houses  arranged  in  terraced  rows  along  the 
hill-side.  No  point  commands  a better  view 
of  the  city  than  the  harbor.  We  anchored 
sometime  in  the  night,  and  going  on  deck  in 
the  morning,  found  the  island  and  city,  like  a 
pretty  picture!,  spread  out  before  us.  The 
steamer  was  far  enough  from  the  shore  for 
the  eye  to  take  in,  at  a glance,  the  city,  with 
its  houses  rising  in  terraces  one  above  another, 
and  the  mountain,  towering  far  above  and 
overshadowing  all.  We  leaned  over  the  rail, 
and  stood  a long  time  enjoying  the  beauty 
of  the  scene. 

Opposite  to  Hongkong  are  low  hills,  with 
here  and  there  a native  village  or  foreign 
building  in  the  valleys.  Conspicuous  is  the 
jail,  a fine  well  built  stone  structure,  which 
might  be  advertised  “to  let,”  for  since  the- 
prisoners  bound  their  keepers  and  left  them 
in  prison,  the  authorities  have  ceased  to  send 
the  culprits  to  such  an  out  of  the  way  and 
unsafe  place.  Perhaps  this  circumstance  has 
led  to  the  better  system  of  outdoor  manual 
labor.  The  convicts  are  seen -at  work  in  com- 
panies of  twenty-five  or  fifty,  breaking  stones 


43 


HOMEWARD. 


for  the  roads  or  trundling  them  on  wheelbar- 
rows to  their  destination.  They  are  usually 
chained  together  in  pairs  and  well  attended 
by  armed  police.  Any  attempt  to  escape, 
and  a rifle  ball  would  be  sent  whizzing  after 
the  runaway.  They  have  plenty  of  healthful 
outdoor  exercise,  good  food,  and  no  doubt 
sleep  well  when  their  work  is  done.  What 
better  situation  for  men  who  have  proved 
themselves  unworthy  of  greater  liberty? 

The  robberies  committed  in  broad  day- 
light, on  the  streets,  have  given  Ilongkong 
an  unenviable  notoriety.  But  great  improve- 
ments have  been  made  in  the  police  force, 
and  the  morals  of  the  (native)  residents  keep 
pace.  It  is  an  English  colon)’,  and  the  com- 
mon-sense system  inaugurated  at  home  may, 
by  and  by,  be  extended  to  the  less  favored 
native  residents  in  the  colony.  Some  are 
slow  in  learning,  that  it  is  cheaper  and  easier 
to  throw  around  the  young,  the  restraints  of 
a moral  and  religious  education,  than  to  take 
care  of  them  when  left  to  grow  up  in  ignor- 
ance and  the  attendant  immorality  and  vice. 

The  natives  who  come  here  bring  their  cus- 
toms with  them.  Their  wedding  and  funeral 
processions  may  be  met  in  the  streets,  or  seen 
crossing  the  country  as  in  other  parts  of  China. 

The  mourners,  as  elsewhere,  burn  mock 
paper  money  and  make  freecpient  prostrations 


\ funeral  procession, 


44 


IWMEIVARD. 


with  weeping  and  wailing.  The  bride  is  car- 
ried in  the  large  sedau  chair,  with  the  band 
of  music  preceding,  and  the  bridal  oresents 
following. 

Standing  on  deck  of  a vessel  in  the  Larbor, 
directly  before  us,  and  near  tire  water’s  edge, 
is  the  City  Hall,  one  of  the  finest  buildings 
in  the  east. 

To  the  left  are  the  Governor’s  residence  and 
the  Botanical  Gardens.  A little  further  ou 
is  the  Cathedral,  nearly  hidden  in  the  trees, 
and  at  a convenient  distance,  the  Barracks. 
The  sugar  refinery,  the  distillery,  Hace-course 
and  Cemetery  are  a mile  or  two  away,  in  or 
near  what  is  called  the  “ Happy  Valle}'.” 

But  let  us  land  and  ascend  some  of  these 
streets.  Many  of  them  consist  of  broad  flights 
of  stone  steps  directly  up  the  mountain  side. 
As  we  walk  along  our  feet  are  as  high  as  the 
roofs  of  the  houses  on  the  next  street  below. 
- The  city  is  well  lighted  with  gas,  and  is  a 
pretty  sight  when  seen  from  the  harbor  by 
night.  From  pure,  never-failing  mountain 
streams,  water  is  brought  into  the  city  and 
through  every  street.  It  is  easily  carried 
. all  over  the  house,  and  is  often  seen  in  beauti- 
ful fountains  playing  among  the  trees  or 
shrubbery. 

Hongkong  has  been  styled  an  overgrown 
Madeira.  It  is  at  any  rate  a beautiful  place. 


A WEDDING  PROCESSION. 


-16 


nOMEWAUD. 


Carriage  roads  have  been  constructed  in  every 
direction,  furnishing  fine  drives  through  the 
shady  ravines  or  around  t lie  mountain  side, 
commanding  a view  of  the  harbour,  with  its 
numerous  vessels  of  every  flag  and  rig. 

The  mountain,  immediately  behind  the  city 
is  so  steep  as  to  seem  to  defy  ascent,  and  the 
granite  boulders  look  as  if  they  would  come 
tumbling  down,  crushing  the  houses  in  their 
track.  Not  long  ago  a portion  of  the  rock 
got  loose  and  slid  down  across  the  street, 
destroying  both  life  and  property. 

Hie  Missionary  societies  find  ample  fields, 
either  among  the  natives  on  the  island,  or  on 
the  main-land,  where  some  of  them  have  many 
stations. 

Missioxaiues  in  I Ion  G song. — Of  the  London  Mission 
there  arc  the  llev.  E.  J.  Eitel,  Eh.  D.,  llcv.  C.  Edge,  and 
their  wives. 

The  English  Church  has  the  Rt.,  Rev.  J.  S.  Burdon, 
U.  D..  and  tue  Rev.  A.  13.  Hutchinson,  and  their  wives 

Of  the  Society  for  the  Promotion  of  Female  Education 
in  the  East,  there  are  Misses  Oxladc  and  Johnstone,  The 
Rev.  Messrs,  Lechlcr  and  Pitou,  and  their  wives,  represent 
the  Basel  Mission  in  Hongkong. 

Statistics  or  tue  Hongkong  Missions. 

Out  Church  Pupisiu  Native  S.  School 
Stations  Members  Schools  Preachers  Scholars 
Bond.  Miss.  6 446  200  10  , 25 

Basel.  16  953  332  22 

Ch.  Miss.  2 40  150  4 

Totals.  24  1439  682  36  25 


HONGKONG  HAKB0J3 


VI. 

HONGKONG  TO  SINGAPORE. 

The  steamer  Glaucus  was  to  leave  early  in 
tlie  morning.  Ave  Avent  on  hoard  in  the  eA'en- 
mg.  It  was  a quiet  starlight  night,  and  the 
phosphorescent,  light  made  the  Avater  resem- 
ble liquid  iire,  as  it  a was  disturbed  by  the 
boat  or  dripped  from  the  oars. 

• Our  A'essel  is  a new  one  making  her  first 
trip.  Everything  is  neat  and  clean,  and  the 
officers  and  steAvards  are  kind  and  accom- 
modating. At  seA'en  in  the  morning  she 
weighed  anchor  and  began  to  move  through 
the  shipping — dipping  her  ensign  as  she 
passed  the  numerous  A^essels  among  which 
she  Avended  her  Avay,  and  receiving  similar 
tokens  of  respect.  Among  others  she  passed 
close  to  an  American  uian-of-Avar,  and  it  was 


BRITISH  INDIA: 


49 


pleasant  to  see  the  stars  and  stripes  hauled 
down  in  compliment  to  the  English  merchant 
steamer.  One  could  not  help  being  sad  at 
the  thought  that  anything  should  occur  to 
interrupt  this  good  feeling. 

Hongkong  lay  bathed  in  the  morning  light, 
as  we  took  a last,  lingering  look.  The  steam- 
er passed  round  to  the  North  of  the  island, 
and  out  to  sea  on  the  West  side,  between  the 
island  and  the  main-land.  Looking  for  the 
house,  where  we  had  been  so  hospitably  en- 
tertained, handkerchiefs  were  seen  waving 
from  the  verandah,  showing  we  were  not 
forgotten  and  that  the  steamer’s  departure 
had  been  watched.  We  were  soon  through 
the  strait,  and  fairly  out  to  sea. 

On  the  evening  of  the  fifth  day,  we  saw 
the  Singapore  light,  revolving  and  appear- 
ing above  the  horizon  every  few  minutes. 

We  anchored  for  the  night  out  side  of  the 
harbor.  ' 

Here  we  enter  British  India,  and  are  glad 
to  get  a glimpse  of  Indian  life. 

As  we  look  from  the  deck,  the  next  morn- 
ing, the  harbor  opens  out  revealing  a good 
number  of  vessels  and  steamers,  and  various 
sorts  of  native  craft  including  the  Chinese 
junk.  Beyond  is  the  town,  built  along  the 
water’s  edge,  with  a background  of  green  trees 
and  hills  covered  to  their  summit  with  the 


50 


HOMEWARD. 


deep  foliage  of  jungle.  Here  and  there  a 
giant  palm,  crowned  with  a compact  clump  of 
leaves  and  branches,  stretches  its  tall  trunk 
high  into  the  air.  Upon  the  tops  of  these 
hills  the  merchants  have  their  residences,  the 
white  walls  or  porticoes  peering  from  among 


SINGAPORE. 


the  deep  dark  green  foliage.  Looking  down 
through  the  clear  water,  patches  of  coral  may 
be  seen,  of  various  color  and  shape.  Wehad 


malay  Dirmta. 


51 


not  reacted  the  wharf  before  a couple  of  tho 
Malay  divers,  so  famous  here,  made  their 
appearance. 

They  were  nearly  naked,  propelling  with 
small  paddles  a miniature  boat  or  “ dug  out  ” 
formed  from  one  piece  of  wood.  By  signs, 
and  the  liberal  use  of  broken  English,  thev 
intimated  that,  if  wo  cast  a piece  of  money 
into  the  water,  they  would  dive  for  it.  Their 
performances  are  really  very  wonderful;  both 
plunging  in  at  once,  one  over  the  other,  with 
frog-like  agility.  They  seem  never  to  fail  to 
bring  up  whatever  is  thrown,  usually  catching 
it  before  it  has  sunk  far.  But  imagine  our 
surprise  when  they  said  “Mister  give  more 
money,  makoc  steamboat and  no  sooner  said 
than  done — by  a skilful  motion  the  boat  was 
turned  up  side  down,  and  both  boys  beneath 
it  ■were  vigorously  slapping  the  bottom  with 
their  hands. 

When  not  thus  employed,  they  become  in- 
terpreters for  the  vendors  of  coral  and  shells, 
of  which  several  boatloads  came  round  the 
steamer. 

The  island  strikes  you  at  once  as  a place  of 
surpassing  loveliness.  The  tropical  forest  ex- 
tends to  the  very  water's  edge,  “ dipping  its 
large  leaves  into  the  glassy  sea;”  or  the 
coast  line  is  broken  by  a brown  rocky  cliff 
nearly  covered  with  foliage.  % 


52 


7T0MEWA7W. 


Little  green  islets  are  scattered,  like  gems 
upon  the  quiet  waters.  “ Eternal  summer 
gilds  these  shores,”  and  the  flowers  never 
pass  away;  the  blossom  and  mature  fruit  often 
appear  side  by  side  on  the  same  tree,  and  the 
sweet  perfume  is  borne,  on  the  gentle  land, 
breeze,  a mile  or  two  out  to  sea. 


__  . The  beautiful  and  quiet  bays  which  indent 
the  island,  must  have  furnished  safe  harbours 
for  the  hordes  of  pirates,  which  formerly 
infested  these  waters.  It  is  said  that  the 
entire  population,  of  this  and  the  surrounding 
islands,  formerly  gave  themselves  up  to  this 


SINGAPORE  PIRATES. 


S3 


life,  resorting  to  fishing  only  when,  on  account 
of  the  prevailing  monsoon,  it  was  impossible 
fo  follow  the  move  lucrative  business  of  piracy. 
Upon  the  principle  that  “dead  men  tell  no 
tales,”  their  victims  were  invariably  put  out 
of  the  way. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Reasbury  came  with  his  car- 
riage, and  to  >k  us  away  to  spend  the  day  on 
shore.  lie  lives  on  one  of  the  hills,  alluded 
to,  about  two  miles  from  the  business  part  of 
the  town.  The  carriage  roads  are  macadam- 
ized with  red  laterite,  quite  smooth  and 
hard.  Beyond  the  town  they  are  usually 
lined  with  hedges,  and  skirt  the  beautiful 
grounds  which  surround  the  residences,  or 
pass  through  jungle  or  coeoanut  plantations. 
Mr.  Keasbury  has  fourteen  acres,  with  his 
residence  on  a hill  in  the  centre.  A carriage 
road  winds  around  the  hill  to  the  stables 
in  the  rear.  Ilis  land  is  planted  with  vari 
ous  kinds  of  tropical  fruit  trees,  of  which 
there  are  twenty  or  thirty  varieties;  some 
of  those  noticed  and  remembered  are  the 
coeoanut,  nutmeg,  cinnamon,  coffee  and  bread 
fruit.  Tapioca,  sago,  gutta  percha,  pepper 
and  arrowroot  are  also  cultivated  or  collected 
either  in.  Singapore  or  the  vicinity.  i 

The  houses  are  generally  very  high  stoned, 
with  blinds  and  doors  opening  on  wide  ver- 
andahs running  around  the  house ; glass  win 


BOKEWARi). 


r4 

dows  are  never  used.  It  is  a continual  sum- 
mer, so  there  is  ix>  need  of  windows  to  shut 
out  the  cold. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  Botanical 
gardens,  and  felt  more  than  ever  the  Eden- 
like  beauty  of  the  place.  Ia  a climate  where 
vegetation  so  luxuriates,  the  gardener  has  a 
light  task. 

This  fine  public  garden  and  park  embraces 
about  fifty  acres,  in'  iuding  one  of  those  pret- 
ty hills.  Here  are  roads,  lawns,  lakes,  with 
swan  sporting  upon  their  surface,  and  every 
variety  of  tropical  plants  and  flowers.  And 
although  it  is  the  12th.  of  March,  the  ver- 
dure and  foliage  has  the  richness  of  midsum- 
mer and  none  of  the  appearance  of  spring. 
On  our  way,  we  passed  through  Orchard 
road,  which  runs  for  about  a mile  in  a 
straight  line  along  a valley,  between  a series 
of  little  hills  upon  which  residences  are  built. 
The  road  is  lined  with  neatly  trimmed  green 
hedges,  broken  only  here  and  there  by  the 
white  portals  of  the  private  avenues  leading 
to  the  residences. 

Tropical  trees  planted  on  each  side  have 
grown  up,  and  now  their  branches  are  in- 
terwoven overhead,  forming  a complete  arch, 
“and  giving  the  appearance  of  a beautiful 
vista  extending  its  entire  length.” 


VII. 

SINGAPORE, 

Tins  island  is  twenty-five  miles  long  by 
fourteen  broad.  It  is  covered  with  little 
round  hills.  Where  one  lias  been  cut  through, 
for  the  road,  bent  and  broken  strata  of  laterite, 
were  seen  showing  that  they  had  been  thrown 
up  by  some  internal  force.  There  are  fine 
roads  crossing  the  island  in  various  direc- 
tions, winding  among  these  hills  or  across 
the  mangrove  swamps : — always  through  the 
jungle,  except  where  the  hand  of  man  has 
cleared  it  away  and  keeps  it  clear.  Nature 
is  so  prolific,  that  she  soon  crowds  the  ground 
with  her  works,  if  man  does  not  with  his. 
One  accustomed  to  the  temperate  zones  can 
hardly  appreciate  a description  of  the  tangled, 

For  much  of  the  information  concerning  Singapore  tho 
author  is  indebted  to  a fellow  passenger,  Mr.  Cameron,  who 
has  published  a very  interesting  work  on  Her  Majesty’s 
Indian  Possessions. 


HOMEWARD. 


6« 


thick,  tall  forests  of  these  jungles.  There 
are,  first,  the  tall  trees  standing  close  together, 
with  trunks  from  two  to  six  feet  in  diametre. 
Their  smooth,  straight  stalks  run  up  to  an 


IN  TEE  JUNGLE. 


immense  height,  without  a branch.  The  tops 
are  crowned  with  a tuft  of  thick,  clarkgreen 
leaves,  so  interlaced  as  to  form  a deep  shade, 
beneath  which  spring  up  a great  variety  of 


THE  JUNGLE. 


57 


other  trees.  Winding  and  turning  in  every 
direction,  are  numerous  species  of  ferns  and 
vines.  Of  the  latter,  the  rattan  is  most  pro- 
minent, often  seen  in  pieces  three  hundred 
feet  long;  while  some  of  the  parasites  that 
entwine  around  these  forest  trees,  are  as  large 
as  a man’s  body. 

Cocoanut  plantations  abound.  The  trees  are 

planted  in  straight 
rows  across  the 
field,  and  seen  in 
all  stages  from  the 
tender  shoot,  just 
springing  from  the 
shell,  to  the  tall 
tree  richly  laden 
with  fruit. 

The  pitcher 
plant,  grows  in 
these  jungles,  in 
as  great  luxuri- 
ance as  anywhere. 
It  is  a parasite, 
perched  upon  the 
trees  at  various 
hights,  always 
containing  about  a quarter  of  a pint  of  pure, 
wholesome  water.  The  monkeys,  which  abound 
here,  are  said  to  rely  upon  the  pitcher  plants 
for  water. 


COCOANUT. 


58 


HOMEWARD. 


There  are  several  species  of  the  monkey 
found  on  the  island,  of  which  not  a few  were 
brought  to  the  wharf  and  offered  for  sale,  at 
a price  varying  from. -one  to  two  dollars,  ac- 
cording to  size,  etc.  The  sailors  took  occasion 


COCOANUT  TREES. 


to  lay  in  a good  stock  for  presents  or  specula- 
tion. The  captain’s  nephew,  a fine  lad,  in- 
vested all  the  money  he  had  in  a specimen, 
which  did  not  care  to  emigrate  from  his 
beautiful  island  home.  He  seized  the  first 
good  opportunity,  got  loose  and  ran  away. 
Monkey  meat  used  to  be  a favorite  dish  with 


WILD  ANIMALS. 


59 


the  Malays,  but  it  is  now  deemed  more  pro- 
fitable to  bring  them  alive  to  the  vessels  and 
exchange  them  for  Jack’s  silver. 

They  are  often  seen  in  the  jungle,  appar- 
ently in  tribes.  Sometimes  they  follow  the 
traveler,  jumping  from  branch  to  branch  in 
the  top  of  the  tall  trees,  or  thrusting  out  their 
little  faces  between  the  leaves,  with  queer 
grimaces,  raising  their  eyebrows  and  pucker- 
ing their  mouths.  In  one  part  of  the  island 
they  visited  a corn-field  in  great  numbers, 
always  stationing  three  or  four  seutinels  on  the 
fence  at  convenient  points.  From  whichever 
side  danger  approached,  they  were  sure  to 
scamper  off  in  the  opposite  direction.  The 
very  young  ones  never  at  erupted  to  run  for 
themselves,  but,  clinging  fast  to  the  bodies  of 
the  older  ones,  were  carried  off  on  their  backs. 

Deer,  wild  hogs  and  tigers  are  also  found 
here.  The  tigers  are  very  numerous,  though 
previous  to  1835,  they  had  never  been  seen. 
In  that  year  a surveyor  was  laying  out  a road 
through  the  jungle,  about  four  miles  from 
town.  When  in  the  act  of  taking  a sight 
through  his  theodolite,  a crashing  noise  was 
heard  in  the  bushes  close  at  hand,  and  a large 
tiger  leaped  right  into  the  midst  of  the  party. 
Those  standing  near  it  sprung  aside,  and  the 
theodolite  received  the  monster.  The  survey- 
ing party  fled  to  town,  leaving  the  theodolite 


60 


HOMEWARD. 


overturned  and  in  fragments.  It  is  believed 
that,  face  to  face,  the  tiger  will  not  attack  a 
Iranian  being.  The  natives  say,  if  yon  tell 
tlie  tiger  be  can  get  plenty  of  food  in  the 
jungle,  he  will  leave  you.  There  is  a story 
of  an  old  Malay  who  was  one  night  returning 
from  town  through  the  jungle,  with  his  little 
son,  seven  or  eight  years  old,  slung  to  his 
back.  When  he  had  reached  a place  where 
the  road  passed  through  the  thickest  of  the 
jungle,  on  lifting  his  eyes  he  saw  a tiger 
crouching  down  right  in  front  of  him,  just 
ready  to  spring.  He  immediately  commenced 
to  argue  with  the  monster,  keeping  his  eye 
upon  him  at  the  same  time,  and  moving 
slowly  backward  till  he  reached  a tree,  which 
he  told  his  son  to  climb.  The  tiger  had  fol- 
lowed, step  by  step,  as  he  retreated.  The  old 
man  now  drew  his  knife,  and,  still  talking  to 
him,  commenced  an  advance,  the  tiger  beat- 
ing a retreat ; this  continued  for  about  fifty 
yards,  when  the  tiger  turned  and  ran  away. 
Unfortunately  few  get  so  good  a chance  to 
face  the  tiger  and  argue  their  case  with  him. 
The  origin  of  tigers  on  the  island  is  a ques- 
tion that  had  often  puzzled  naturalists.  At 
last  one  was  caught  in  a fishing  net,  while 
swimming  across  from  the  main  land.  This 
has  led  to  the  supposition  that  they  came 
from  the  peninsula. 


A MAN  KILLED  EACH  DAY. 


61 


Formerly,  tliey  were  scarcely  known,  but 
they  have  now  so  increased  as  to  be  the 
terror  of  the  natives.  Those  best  informed, 
believe  that,  on  an  average,  one  man  each 
day  falls  a victim  to  their  ferocity.  The 
mangled  corpses  recovered  during  the  year, 
are  indisputable  proof  of  at  least  forty  cases. 
Eighty  additional  ones  were  reported  to  the 
police  where  the  bodies  could  not  be  found. 
While  this  is  only  about  a third  of  the 
number,  yet  it  must  be  considered  that  the 
victims  are  mostly  Chinamen,  living  usually 
not  less  than  nine  miles  from  town,  and  they 
know  by  sad  experience  that  a tiger,  having 
once  seized  his  prey,  never  leaves  it  till  life 
is  extinct,  and  that  all  time  and  money  spent 
in  reporting  the  case  to  the  police  is  a useless 
waste.  Besides,  it  is  well-known  that  the 
Chinese  are  averse  to  any  dismemberment  of 
the  human  body,  and,  rather  than  face  such 
a dreadful  sight,  there  is  no  doubt  that  many 
a poor  Chinaman  is  carried  off  by  tigers,  for 
whom  no  search  is  ever  made,  or  if  found 
he  is  quietly  interred  near  the  spot.  The 
most  exposed  are  the  half-hired  and  half- 
purchased  coolies,  working  plantations  far 
away  in  the  jungle.  It  is  for  the  interest  of 
the  planter  that  his  place  should  have  a 
good  reputation  for  safety  as  well  as  good 
treatment ; for  he  has  occasionally  to  replace 


62 


HOMEWARD. 


those  carried  off,  and  those  whose  term  of 
service  has  expired.  If,  therefore,  a laborer 
is  carried  off’,  the  proprietor  would  be  likely 
to  ignore  or  conceal  the  fact.  Suspecting 
something  of  tue  kind,  official  examination 
was  made,  and  although  at  first,  it  seemed 
that  scarcely  a single  pepper  plantation  had 
lost  a man,  yet  it  was  afterwards  ascertained 
that  concealment  had  been  systematically 
practised,  and  of  the  little  graves  around 
each  homestead,  nearly  one  half  were  filled 
with  the  remains  of  those  killed  by  tigers. 

The  tiger  has  but  one  way  of  taking-  his 
prey.  He  invariably  watches  his  victim  till 
the  back  is  turned,  then,  creeping  to  within 
seven  or  eight  yards,  he  gives  a fierce  and 
well-directed  boi  id  forward,  and  with  one 
blow  of  his  muscular  paw,  strikes  the  man  to 
the  earth,  dead ! In  an  instant  the  tiger 
seizes  the  body  by  the  neck,  and  tossing  it 
across  his  back,  bounds  away  into  the  jungle. 
However  horrible  the  death  may  seem,  there 
is  some  comfort  in  thinking  that  the  poor  fel- 
low loses  all  consciousness,  and  very  likely 
every  spark  of  life  with  the  first  fell  stroke 
that  knocks  him  down.  In  almost  every 
body  recovered,  the  back  of  the  skull  was 
found  fractured,  or  the  neck  broken. 

Carrol,  an  old  American  backwoodsman, 
who  has  had  more  success  than  any  one  else 


HABITS  OF  THE  TIGER. 


63 


in  hunting  them,  gives  the  following  tacts 
concerning  their  habits : — “ The  tigress  brings 
forth  from  two  to  five  cubs,  in  the  loneliest 
part  of  the  thicket,  taking  every  precaution  to 
hide  them  from  the  tiger  father  who  imme- 
diately devours  every  little  tiger  he  can  find. 
Seven-tenths  are  probably  thus  destroyed.” 
When  persons  are  killed  by  tigers,  but 
little  can  ever  be  known,  except  what  is  re- 
vealed by  the  mangled  corpse,  found  in  the 
jungle.  And  these  are  horrible  sights.  Some- 
times but  little  of  the  body  is  left ; again, 
only  an  arm,  a foot,  or  the  head  is  gone. 
Sometimes  there  is  no  mark  except  a wound 
in  the  throat,  from  which  the  blood  has  been 
sucked;  or  the  breast  has  been  torn  open  and 
the  heart  and  lungs  devoured.  In  most  cases 
the  thighs  have  been  eaten  to  the  bone,  even 
where  the  flesh  above  and  below  was  left 
untouched. 


VIII. 

SINGAPORE— POPULATION,  ETC. 

The  population  of  this  place  is  about  ninety 
thousand,  nearly  half  being  Malays,  who  are 
said  to  have  taken  possession  of  the  island  in 
the  thirteenth  century.  The  aborigines  are 
now  scattered  over  the  peninsula  and  adjacent 
islands,  reminding  one  much  of  the  condition 
of  the  American  Indians.  There  may  be  seven 
or  eight  thousand  of  them.  They  give  very 
singular  accounts  of  their  origin.  The  fol- 
lowing is  likely  to  interest  the  disciples  of 
Darwin. 

“Among  one  tribe  it  is  stated  with  all 
gravity,  that  they  are  descended  from  two 
white  apes,  who,  having  reared  their  young 
ones,  sent  them  into  the  plains,  where  the 
greater  number  perfected  so  well  that  they 


ACCOUNT  OF  THE  CREATION 


65 


became  men ; those  who  clid  not  become  men 
returned  once  more  to  the  mountains,  and 
still  continue  apes.” 

Another  account  is,  that  God,  having  call- 
ed into  existence  a being  of  great  strength 
and  beauty,  named  him  Batin.  God,  desirous 
that  a form  so  fair  should  be  perpetuated, 
gave  Batin  a companion,  and  sent  them  forth 
to  dwell  in  the  earth.  Charmed  with  its 
beauties,  they  took  up  the#  abode  in  the 
island  of  Singapore,  increasing  and  multiply- 
ing with  a rapidity  and  to  a degree  now  un- 
known. From  these  two  all  the  tribes  have 
descended. 

Another  tribe  gives  the  following  account. 
“The  ground,”  say  they,  “is  not  solid.  It 
is  merely  the  skin  of  the  earth.  In  ancient 
times  God  broke  up  this  crust  so  that  the 
earth  was  overwhelmed  with  water,  and  des- 
troyed. After  this,  God  caused  the  moun- 
tains to  rise,  and  sent  forth  to  float  upon  the 
water  a vessel  closed  up  tightly,  containing 
a man  and  woman  that  he  had  made.  The 
vessel  having  floated  to  dry  land,  the  man 
and  woman  nibbled  a hole  and  came  forth. 
At  first,  however,  everything  was  obscure. 
There  was  neither  morning  nor  evening,  be- 
cause the  sun  had  not  yet  been  made.  By 
and  by  the  woman  became  pregnant,  not, 
however,  in  her  womb  but  in  the  calves  of 


66 


HOMEWARD. 


her  legs.  From  the  right  leg  she  brought 
forth  a male  child,  and  from  the  left  leg  a 
female.  Hence  it  is  that  the  issue  of  the 
same  womb  cannot  intermarry.  All  man- 
kind are  the  descendants  of  the  children  of 
this  first  pair.” 

A somewhat  similar  account  is  given  by 
another  tribe : “ They  say  their  fathers 

originally  came  from  heaven,  in  a large  and 
magnificent  ship  built  by  God,  and  set  float- 
ing on  the  waters  of  the  earth.  The  ship, 
sailing  round  and  round  the  earth,  at  last 
grounded  upon  one  of  the  mountains  of  the 
peninsula,  where  they  declare  it  may  still  be 
seen.  Their  fathers  disembarked  and  abode 
upon  the  mountains,  plains  and  coasts,  all 
under  one  chief.” 

The  marriage  ceremony  is  simple,  and  “the 
new-made  acquaintance  of  the  morning  is 
often  the  bride  of  the  evening.  It  is  more  a 
matter  of  arrangement  with  the  parents  than 
courtship  with  the  daughter ; the  form  gene- 
rally observed,  reminds  one  of  the  old  tale 
of  Hippomenes  and  Atlanta.  If  the  tribe  is 
on  the  bank  of  a lake  or  stream,  the  damsel 
is  given  a canoe  and  a double-bladed  paddle, 
and  allowed  a start  of  some  distance;  her 
lover,  similarly  equipped,  starts  off  in  chase. 
If  he  succeed  in  overtaking  her,  she  becomes 
his  wife ; if  not,  the  match  is  broken  off.” 


MARRIAGE  CEREMONY. 


67 


The  arrangements  having  been  so  far  com- 
pleted, it  is  seldom  that  objections  are  made 
at  the  last  moment,  and  the  chase  is  general- 
ly a short  and  successful  one.  Though  the 
maiden’s  arm  may  be  strong,  her  heart  is 
warm,  and  she  soon  becomes  a willing  cap- 
tive. If  there  is  no  body  of  water  at  hand, 
a circle  is  formed  and  the  maiden,  stripped 
of  all  but  a waistband,  is  given  a fair  start. 
If  she  runs  round  three  times  before  her 
lover  overtakes  her,  she  remains  a virgin. 
But  it  is  said  that  however  far  they  start  in 
advance,  or  however  fleet  of  foot,  “but  few 
outstrip  their  lovers.” 


IX. 

NATIVE  TRIBES  OF  SINGAPORE. 

These  tribes,  like  the  American  Indians, 
lead  a wandering  life,  never  bestowing  much 
attention  upon  the  dwelling,  so  soon  to  be 
left  for  another,  many  miles  away.  Their 
huts  are  usually  built  upon  posts,  seven  or 
eight  feet  high,  and  covered  with  bark  or 
leaves.  Sometimes  they  perch  their  huts, 
like  nests  in  the  trees,  twenty-five  or  thirty 


68 


HOMEWARD 


feet  from  tlie  ground.  They  are  reached  by 
means  of  ladders,  up  which  old  men,  women, 


A HOUSE  IX  A TREE. 

children  and  even  dogs  learn  to  climb  with 
ease.  Confident  in  the  resources  of  the  for- 
ests  and  streams,  these  people  lay  up  no 


MANNER  OF  BURIAL. 


69 


stores,  and  their  huts  contain  little  or  no 
furniture.  They  are  simple  and  kind ; and 
like  the  American  aborigines,  are  grateful 
for  a kind  act  or  word.  Contented  and  happy 
in  their  present  condition,  they  do  not  seek 
to  improve  it.  If  any  altercation  arises,  the 
party  aggrieved  withdraws  to  another  hunt- 
ing ground,  till  the  offender  seeks  reconcilia- 
tion ; and  these  separations  often  become  per- 
manent. 

The  account  they  give  of  their  origin  goes 
to  show  that  they  believe  in  God.  They 
also  believe  in  the  immortality  of  the  soul, 
though  their  notions  seem  neither  clear  nor 
well  defined,  and  their  religion  is  strangely 
mixed  up  with  demonology.  They  believe 
that  a good  and  bad  spirit  accompany  ever}7 
man  through  life,  and  they  seem  more  anx- 
ious to  conciliate  the  bad  than  to  cultivate 
the  acquaintance  of  the  good.  Like  too  many 
others,  they  seldom  pray  to  God  except  when 
at  the  point  of  death. 

They  bury  their  dead  erect  or  in  a sitting 
posture,  placing  beside  the  body,  food  and 
weapons,  which  seems  to  indicate  a belief  in 
the  resurrection.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Borie  con- 
tributes the  following  as  their  views  of  the 
end  of  the  world : 

* * * “ A great  wind  will  arise  accom- 

panied by  rain,  lightning  will  fill  the  space 


70 


HOMEWARD. 


all  around,  and  the  mountains  will  sink ; to 
this  will  succeed  a great  heat ; there  will  be 
no  more  night,  and  the  earth  will  wither  like 
the  grass  in  the  field.  God  will  then  come 
down  surrounded  by  a whirlwind  of  flame 
ready  to  consume  the  universe.  He  will 
assemble  the  souls  of  the  sinners  and,  burn- 
ing them  for  the  first  time,  sift  their  ashes 
through  a fine  linen  cloth.  Those  who  pass 
through  the  flames  without  being  purifi 
ed  are  burnt  and  sifted  again  and  again  for 
seven  times  in  succession.  All  those  souls 
thus  purified  go  to  the  enjoyments  of  heaven. 
The  souls  of  very  great  sinners,  homicides 
and  those  guilty  of  rape,  which  can  not  be 
purified,  are  cast  into  hell  to  suffer  the  tor- 
ment of  flames  with  devils Lastly, 

God  having  taken  a light  from  hell,  will  close 
the  portals  and  set  fire  to  the  earth.'1 

In  their  domestic  relationship  they  are 
frank  and  faithful.  Each  hamlet,  consisting 
of  twenty  or  thirty  of  their  huts  raised  upon 
posts,  is  generally  occupied  by  those  related 
by  birth  or  marriage. 

The  trees  of  the  same  grove  shelter  the 
houses  of  the  living  and  the  graves  of  the 
dead,  about  which  the  little  naked  children 
are  often  seen  playing  fearlessly.  Around 
the  decaying  head  post  of  an  old  grave  gar- 
lands of  fresh,  fragrant  flowers  are  sometimes 


THEIR  DEAD  NOT  FORGOTTEN. 


71 


placed  showing  that  the  dead  are  not  for- 
gotten. 

The  Malays,  as  a race,  are  short,  well 
proportioned,  generally  having  honest,  open 
countenances.  They  are  copper  colored,  with 
dark  brown  or  black  eyes  and  a bold,  though 
not  impudent  expression.  The  women  are 
generally  fairer  than  the  men,  with  soft, 
lustrous  eyes  and  long,  drooping  lashes.  Their 
lips  are  full,  and  when  parted  disclose  a beau- 
tiful set  of  teeth.  They  wear  the  hair  comb- 
ed back  and  fastened  in  a knot  behind.  The 
majority,  of  the  young  at  least,  are  good 
looking. 

The  uniform  dress  of  the  men,  consists  of 
a white  jacket,  short,  gay  colored  trousers 
and  a sort  of  petticoat  gathered  round  the 
waist  and  reaching  to  the  knees,  and  a color- 
ed handkerchief  tied  around  the  head. 

The  garb  of  the  women  is  even  more  simple. 
It  consists  of  a sort  of  petticoat  fastened 
under  the  arms  and  over  the  breasts  of  the 
young,  and  round  the  waists  of  the  full  grown, 
reaching  a little  below  the  ankle.  Over  the 
shoulders  is  worn  a loose  flowing  robe,  open 
in  front  and  reaching  nearly  to  the  ground. 

A little  removed  from  one  of  the  streets  we 
saw  a Hindu  temple.  The  state  of  repair 
does  not  speak  much  for  their  devotion  to 
the  false  religion. 


X. 

SINGAPORE  TO  PENANG  AND  CEYLON. 

On  Tuesday,  the  12th  of  March,  at  four 
o’clock,  the  steamer  cast  off  her  moorings 
and  left  the  wharf.  Her  course  lay  among  a 
thick  cluster  of  small  islands  and  through 
the  straits  of  Malacca  to  Penang.  Nothing 
could  exceed  the  luxuriance  and  tropical  beau- 
ty, that  everywhere  met  the  eye,  as  we  sailed 
among  these  islands.  The  next  day  we  were 
in  the  straits,  with  Malacca  and  Siam  on  the 
right  and  Sumatra  on  the  left.  Thursday 
morning  about  ten  o’clock,  we  anchored  off 
Penang.  Here  the  steamer  stopped  to  re- 
ceive cargo  and  more  passengers,  while  those 
on  board  availed  thtmselves  of  the  oppor- 
tunity to  take  a run  on  shore  and  see  some- 
thing of  the  island.  The  inhabitants,  pro- 
ducts, climate,  etc.,  much  resemble  Singapore. 


74 


HOMEWARD. 


It  is  intimately  connected  with  other  English 
possessions  on  the  main  land,  and  is  separated 
by  a narrow  strait  only  two  or  three  miles 
wide. 

On  landing  we  were  beseiged  by  the  hack 
drivers  to  ride  to  the  cascades.  From  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  back  of  the  town, 
you  may  get  a good  view,  including  the  whole 
island,  the  town  and  the  shipping  in  the 
harbor,  and  the  sea  on  both  sides.  But 
we  contented  ourselves  with  a visit  to  some 
of  the  schools,  libraries,  etc.,  and  having 
bought  a few  curios  went  on  board  again. 
The  Chinese,  which  we  have  seen  in  every 
place,  thronging  the  streets  and  taking  a large 
share  of  the  business,  are  also  numerous  here. 

The  houses  are  substantial  brick  buildings, 
two  storys  high,  and  on  the  business  streets  a 
verandah  extends  over  the  side  walk,  as  in 
Singapore,  protecting  from  the  rain  and  sun. 
After  dinner,  we  sat  down  on  deck,  under 
the  awning,  and  looked  across  the  narrow 
strait,  at  the  shores  of  Province  Wellesley, 
on  the  main  land,  two  or  three  miles  distant. 
Large  sugar  plantations  and  sugar  mills  have 
been  established  there  by  Europeans.  First 
class  machinery,  run  by  steam,  is  employed 
in  crushing  the  sugar  cane  and  in  doing  other 
parts  of  the  work.  Singapore,  Penang  and 
Province  Wellesley  are  usually  called  the 


ENGLAND’S  INFLUENCE. 


75 


“ Straits  Settlements.”  They  are  Provinces 
of  England,  and  though  the  government  is  in 
the  hands  of  Englishmen,  yet  natives  occupy 
various  official  positions.  England  has  con- 
feried  upon  these  poor  ignorant  natives  great 
blessings,  such  as  schools,  roads,  trade  and, 
in  short,  a good  and  reliable  government. 
But  in  turn  she  has  reaped  a rich  harvest. 
She  has,  in  a degree,  monopolized  the  trade, 
bringing  these  tropical  products  to  her  own 
shores,  whence  they  have  been  distributed 
throughout  the  world.  She  also  finds  here 
employment  for  thousands  of  her  sons,  as 
merchants,  officers,  etc. 

What  a pity  all  these  Asiatic  nations  and 
tribes  could  not  have  a good  governfnent 
established  over  them  at  once,  and  thus  put 
an  end  to  such  misrule  and  oppression,  as 
exists  in  every  pagan  country  while  governed 
by  avaricious,  unprincipled  heathen ! 

But  while  musing  upon  these  political 
questions,  the  anchor  has  come  up  and  the 
steamer  moved  away  through  the  shipping, 
and  out  into  the  straits.  We  left  Penang  at 
seven  o’clock,  Thursday  evening,  taking  our 
way  due  west,  across  the  Indian  ocean. — 

“ A wet  sheet  and  a flowing  sea, 

And  a health  to  the  Homeward  Bound  ! ” 

We  had  very  beautiful  moonlight  nights,  a 
smooth  sea,  and  fine  weather;  the  officers  weie 


76 


HOMEWARD. 


accommodating,  the  passengers  agreeable,  and 
all  seemed  to  enjoy  themselves.  On  Tuesday, 
according  to  the  captain’s  expectation,  soon 
after  breakfast,  the  coast  of  Ceylon  appeared 
in  sight,  seen  but  dimly  in  the  distance. 
Though  it  was  only  four  days  since  we  had 
seen  land,  yet  all  eyes  were  strained  in  that 
direction,  while  every  moment  it  seemed  to 
rise  from  the  water  and  approach  us.  All  day 
we  steamed  alone1  the  southern  coast,  watch- 
ing  the  varying  appearance  of  the  country 
inland,  and  close  enough  to  see  quite  distinct- 
ly objects  near  the  shore. 

In  the  distance  are  hills  and  mountains, 
while  nearer,  the  coast  is  level  or  but  slightly 
undulating.  About  six  o’clock  in  the  after- 
noon, we  passed  Point  de  Galle,  near  enough 
to  see  the  shipping  in  the  harbor,  the  build- 
ings on  shore,  and  communicate  the  name  of 
our  steamer,  which  was  at  once  telegraphed 
to  London,  as  so  far  on  her  journey. 

Point  de  Galle  is  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  island,  and  the  most  frequen  ted  port. 
The  harbor  is  surrounded  by  high  rocks, 
over  which  the  surf  breaks  making  it  diffi- 
cult to  land,  especially  in  stormy  weather. 
In  the  background  are  beautiful  groves  of 
cocoanut  trees,  and  beyond,  and  towering 
above  all,  is  a mountain  about  six  thousand 
feet  high. 


THE  ISLAND  OF  CEYLON. 


77 


The  island  of  Ceylon  is  situated  between 
five  and  ten  degrees  north  latitude ; it  is  more 
than  two  hundred  miles  long  and  about  one 
hundred  wide.  It  has  rich  pearl  fisheries,  and 
produces  various  and  delicious  tropical  fruits. 
The  graceful  cocoanut  tree,  which  springs 
up  wliere  there  is  scarcely  earth  enough  to 
cover  the  shell,  adorns  the  landscape  in  every 
direction. 

The  cocoanut  tree  is  to  the  inhabitants  of 
Ceylon  what  bamboo  is  to  the  Chinese.  The 
green  fruit  furnishes  a cooling  and  delicious 
beverage,  the  ripened  nut,  food,  the  shell, 
fuel,  the  fibres  are  woven  into  coir  or  ropes, 
and  from  the  old  fruit,  pure  oil  is  extracted ; 
the  leaves  form  a shelter  from  the  sun  and 
rain,  the  trunk  yields  a juice  from  which 
spirit  is  distilled  or  sugar  manufactured,  and 
the  beautiful,  variegated  wood  is  used  in 
making  furniture. 


XI. 


THE  CINGALESE. 

There  are  various  opinions  as  to  the  origin 
of  the  inhabitants  of  Ceylon.  The  following 
is  the  most  commonly  received.  It  is  well 
known  that  the  Chinese,  from  a remote  period, 
were  masters  of  oriental  commerce ; and  it  is 
supposed  that  some  of  their  vessels  were 
driven  upon  the  coast  of  Ceylon ; the  mar- 
iners and  passengers,  finding  the  island  fertile, 
soon  established  themselves  upon  it.  Shortly 
after,  the  Malabars,  having  discovered  it, 
sent  thither  their  exiles  which  they  called 
Galas.  The  exiles  and  Chinese  soon  mixed 
and  were  called  Chingalese  or  Cingalese. 
There  are  also  upon  the  island  distinct  tribes 
called  Veddahs,  resembling  the  American 
Indians,  who  are  probably  the  aborigines. 
The  worship  of  ancestors  among  the  Cingalese 


PRECIOUS  STONES. 


79 


is  one  evidence  of  their  Chinese  origin.  Bishop 
Heber  might  well  say  of  the  island, — 

“ Every  prospect  pleases, 

And  only  man  is  vile.” 

Nature  has  bestowed  her  choicest  gifts 
with  a most  liberal  hand.  In  addition  to  the 
luxuriant  vegetation  and  great  variety  of 
tropical  fruits,  there  are  many  precious  stones. 
The  ruby,  emerald,  sapphire,  onyx,  amethyst, 
opal,  jacinth  and  topaz  are  all  found  in  this 
beautiful  island. 

The  Buddhists  consider  Ceylon  a sacred 
island,  and  have  deposited  here  their  most 
precious  relic,  Buddha’s  tooth.  Buddhists  be- 
lieve that,  the  nation  possessing  it  can  never 
be  conquered.  The  English  captured  and 
held  it  from  1818  till  1847,  when  the  home 
government  ordered  it  to  be  returned  to  the 
priests.  This  relic  is  placed  in  the  principal 
temple  in  Kandy  in  a room  about  twelve  feet 
square,  and  without  windows.  The  walls  and 
ceiling  are  hung  with  gold  brocade,  and 
white  shawls  with  colored  borders. 

A table  covered  with  gold  brocade  occu- 
pies the  principal  part  of  the  room.  On  this 
shrine  are  placed  two  small  images  of  Budd- 
ha, one  of  gold,  the  other  of  crystal.  Four 
caskets,  containing  other  relics,  occupy  the 
four  corners,  in  the  center  is  the  casket  con- 
taining the  sacred  tooth.  This  casket  is  bell 


80 


HOMEWARD. 


shaped,  made  of  silver,  heavily  plated  with 
gold ; it  is  about  five  feet  high  and  nine  feet 
in  diameter  at  the  bottom.  Various  orna- 
ments and  charms  of  the  richest  description 
are  suspended  about  it.  Europeans  who  have 
seen  it  affirm  that  this  tooth  is  artificial, 
made  of  ivory  and  discolored  by  time.  If  a 
natural  tooth,  it  is  evident,  both  from  its  size 
and  shape,  that  it  could  never  have  been 
carried  in  the  jaw  of  a human  being.  It  is 
wrapped  in  a sheet  of  virgin  gold,  and  placed 
in  a box  of  the  same  material,  just  large 
enough  to  receive  it.  The  outside  of  the 
box  is  studded  with  precious  stones.  This 
box  is  placed  in  a golden  vase  decorated 
with  diamonds,  emeralds  and  rubies,  wrapped 
in  rich  brocade  and  enclosed  in  a second  vase 
of  gold.  This  is  enclosed  in  a third,  which  is 
put  into  a fourth.  The  last  vase  is  nearly 
eighteen  inches  high,  and  exquisitely  wrought. 
It  is  taken  from  the  casket  only  at  stated 
periods,  to  be  worshiped.  The  picture,  on  the 
opposite  page,  represents  one  of  these  scenes. 
The  casket,  containing  the  sacred  tooth,  is  on 
the  back  of  the  elephant  just  coming  through 
the  door.  As  soon  as  this  elephant  is  seen, 
the  people  make  the  other  elephants  kneel, 
while  they  rend  the  air  with  their  shouts  of 
praise. 

The  king  of  Siam  once  sent  a number  of 


worshipping  buhdha’s  tooth, 


BAND  AH’S  STORY. 


83 


priests  with  a jar  of  otto  of  roses,  to  be  con- 
secrated by  contact  with  the  tooth.  The  mis- 
sion was  returning,  disconsolate,  having  spent 
about  $25,000  in  presents  and  bribes  m a 
vain  endeavor  to  obtain  a sight  of  the  relic. 

At  this  juncture  they  met  a man  called 
Bandah,  who  had  once  been  a convict,  but 
was  now  free.  His  linguistic  abilities  gave 
him  access  to  the  governor,  and  he  repre- 
sented to  that  functionary  the  impositions 
that  had  been  practised  upon  the  king  of 
Siam’s  holy  mission.  The  governor,  who  was 
a good  friend  of  Bandah’s,  appreciated  the 
hardships  of  the  poor  priests,  and  promised 
that  they  should  see  the  tooth. 

The  councillor,  who  kept  the  keys,  was  just 
then  absent  but  Bandah  was  allowed  to  go  to 
his  wife,  with  the  governor’s  compliments, 
and  ask  for  the  key.  The  key  was  brought 
and  the  Kandy  priests  notified  that  they  must 
be  present.  On  the  third  day  the  great 
mosque  was  opened.  Bandah  and  the  Siamese 
priests  were  on  one  side  and  the  Kandy 
priests  on  the  other,  while  the  governor  and 
recorder  occupied  the  centre.  The  Siamese 
wished  a bit  of  cotton,  dipped  in  the  otto  of 
roses,  to  be  rubbed  on  the  tooth  and  placed 
in  the  jar,  to  consecrate  the  whole.  To  this 
the  Kandy  priests  objected.  The  governor 
enquired  as  to  the  cause  of  the  altercation. 


84 


HOME  WARD. 


Bandah,  resolved  to  gratify  tlie  Siamese,  and 
suiting  the  action  to  the  word  said  “ This  is 
what  they  want,  your  honor ; they  want  to 
take  this  small  piece  of  cotton,  so ; and  hav- 
ing dipped  it  in  this  oil,  so,  they  wish  to  rub 
it  on  this  here  sacred  tooth,  so,  and  then  to 
return  it  to  the  jar  of  oil,  so, — there  by  to 
consecrate  the  whole  your  honor.” 

The  ceremony  had  thus  been  performed,  in 
giving  the  explanation.  It  was  but  the  work 
of  a moment  and  no  one  had  time  to  inter- 
fere. While  the  Kandy  priests  made  noisy 
protests,  the  Siamese  took,  from  Bandah’s 
hands,  the  conscerated  jar  with  every  demon- 
stration of  gratitude. 

XII. 

DEATH  AT  SEA. 

On  the  fourth  day  after  we  lost  sight  of 
Ceylon,  Death  spread  a shade  of  gloom  over 
the  vessel.  The  second  officer  came  hurrying 
into  the  cabin  and  whispered,  “ Don’t  fright- 
en the  ladies,  but  one  of  the  men  has  been 
shot,  and  is  dying ! ” The  first  thought  was, 
there  has  been  a fight — perhaps  mutiny. 
Running  forward  we  found  a group  gathered 
around  the  dying  man,  who  was  just  drawing 
his  last  breath. 


BURIAL  AT  BEA. 


85 


It  appears  that  the  carpenter  was  cleaning 
the  captain’s  revolver ; he  had  never  found  it 
loaded  before,  and  now  began  working  the 
lock  and  snapping  it.  The  very  first  stroke 
of  the  hammer  and  a ball,  whizzing  from  the 
muzzle  struck  a fireman,  standing  near.  He 
staggered  a few  steps  to  where  a passenger 
was  reclining  on  a chair,  and  asking  for  it, 
threw  himself  prostrate  on  his  face  and  never 
spoke  again.  In  a few  minutes  he  had  ceased 
to  breathe. 

The  bath  room  was  turned  into  a dissect- 
ing room,  and  the  doctor  spent  much  of  the 
night  vainly  seeking  the  ball.  Early  the 
next  morning  it  was  found  lodged  in  the 
back  bone,  having  passed  nearly  through 
the  body. 

The  captain  always  had  religious  services 
on  Sunday  morning — conducting  them  him- 
self, if  there  was  no  minister  among  his  pas- 
sengers. This  morning  the  funeral  service 
was  to  precede  the  other  exercises,  and  we 
were  asked  to  read  the  English  church  burial 
service,  adapting  it  to  the  occasion.  When 
the  officers  and  men  had  been  mustered  and 
reviewed,  as  was  customary  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing, the  corpse,  wrapped  in  its  canvas  coffin, 
was  borne  solemnly  and  gently  to  the  bul- 
warks, and  laid  upon  a plank  the  end  of  which 
projected  through  the  open  port.  The  ship’s 


86 


HOMEWARD. 


flag  was  laid  over  the  corpse  and  the  sailors, 
clean  and  tidy  with  hat  in  hand,  gathered  on 
one  side,  and  the  officers  and  passengers  on 
the  other.  At  a signal  from  the  captain,  the 
engines  stopped,  and  the  steamer  lay  quiet  in 
mid  ocean.  We  were  so  accustomed  to  the 
motion  of  the  machinery  that  we  felt  a strange 
sensation  of  rest  and  quiet.  The  silence  was 
broken  by  those  mournful,  hopeful  words  of 
the  ritual.  Every  one  listened  respectfully 
and  attentively  as  the  reading  proceeded.  At 
the  words  “We  commit  his  body  to  the  deep,” 
two  of  his  companions  held  the  corners  of 
the  flag  while  two  others  raised  the  end  of 
the  plank, — there  was  a spiash,  and  the  weaves 
closed  over  a human  form,  which  sank  into  the 
depths  of  the  ocean.  After  the  benediction, 
the  little  group  separated,  and  the  steamer 
moved  on. 

The  next  day  his  effects  were  sold  at  auc- 
tion. He  had  some  money  in  gold  upon  his 
person  when  he  died,  and  more  owed  him 
by  his  companions  who  had  borrowed  from 
him.  His  wardrobe  brought  but  a trifle,  but 
he  had  about  twenty  canary  and  other  birds, 
he  was  carrying  home  to  sell,  hoping  to 
realize  something  for  the  support  of  an  aged 
mother.  These  were  sold  at  a good  price. 

Three  days  later  we  saw  islands  off  the 
Arabian  coast  and  the  same  evening  passed 


HOW  THE  FRENCH  TOOK  VERIM. 


87 


cape  Guardafui.  On  the  twenty-seventh  of 
March,  the  African  coast  was  in  sight,  all  day. 
About  noon  on  the  twenty-eighth,  we  passed 
Aden.*  In  the  evening  we  entered  the  Red 
sea  The  entrance,  called  the  straits  of  Babel- 
Mandeb,  is  but  about  a mile  and  a quarter 
wide,  with  rocky  highlands  on  each  side. 
On  the  left  is  the  island  of  Perim  with  a re- 
volving light,  attaining  its  greatest  brilliancy 
once  a minute.  Some  years  ago  the  French 
emperor  sent  out  a fleet,  round  the  cape  of 
Good  Hope,  to  take  possession  of  this  gate 
to  the  Red  sea  While  stopping  at  Aden, 
the  French  admiral  was  entertained  by  the 
governor  and  a gunboat  dispatched  to  hoist 
the  British  flag  on  the  island  of  Perim. 
When  the  French  admiral  arrived  a few7  days 
later,  he  discovered,  to  his  chagrin,  how  he 
had  been  outwitted.  The  English  flag  waves 
there  to-day,  and  is  likely  to,  as  long  as  Eng- 
land has  so  much  interest  in  the  East. 

The  Red  sea  has  not  till  lately  been  a great 
highway  for  commerce,  and  is  very  dangerous 
and  insufficiently  lighted.  But  this  obstacle 
must  soon  be  remedied,  now7  that  the  Suez 
canal  makes  it  one  of  the  greatest  commercial 
throughfares  in  the  world. 

The  first  point  of  interest  in  the  Red  sea 


* Aden  is  simply  a fortification,  built  on  a.  high,  volcanic 
and  entirely  barren  promontory. 


88 


HOMEWARD. 


is  Mocha,  a port  in  Arabia,  from  which  the 
finest  coffee  is  exported.  By  day  the  min- 
arets of  the  mosques  may  be  seen.  We  pass- 
ed it  by  night  and  sat  up,  an  hour  later  than 
usual,  to  see  its  lights,  but  saw  them  not. 
About  half  way  up  the  Red  sea  we  passed 
the  port  of  Djiddah.  Here  the  pilgrims  to 
Mecca  land,  and  at  this  season  of  the  year 
some  of  the  steamers  make  a profitable  busi- 
ness carrying  them. 

A few  miles  from  the  shore,  in  the  midst  of  a 
little  grove,  are  the  Wells  of  Moses,  surround- 
ed by  palm  trees,  the  only  green  thing  seen 
on  either  shore  during  the  whole  day. 

The  mountain  range  known  as  Horeb  or 
Sinai  is  in  sight  all  clay,  and  we  watched  it 
with  deep  interest,  wondering  if  the  highest 
jagged  peak  is  really  Sinai.  This  coast  range 
occasionally  hiding  it  from  our  view,  “had  wit- 
nessed its  bald  peak  covered  with  the  black 
masses  of  cloud  on  fire  with  the  lightning’s 
flash,  and  had  trembled  under  the  same  voice 
which  had  shaken  it  as  with  an  earthquake. 
The  pillar  of  cloud  had  rested  on  some  of 
these  very  peaks  whose  towering  heads  I now 
behold.  God  had  taken  of  their  granite  the 
tables  of  stone  on  which  his  finger  wrote  the 
words  that  were  to  give  in  themselves  the 
unquestioned  proof  of  their  divine  origin.”  * 

* Eev.  E.  B.  Hendrix,  in  “ Around  the  World." 


MOUNT  IIOKEB 


THE  DESERT. 


91 


The  rocky  cliffs  rise  abruptly  upon  each 
side  of  the  narrow  sea,  as  barren  as  ever  rock 
was  seen.  Not  a tree,  nor  shrub,  not  a blade 
of  grass,  nor  sign  of  life.  The  rocks  on  the 
Egyptian  side  are  red,  resembling  red  sand- 
stone. Near  Suez  we  passed  the  place  where 
it  is  said  Moses  led  the  Israelites  across  the 
Red  sea.  This  may  not  be  the  exact  spot,  but 
the  surroundings  favor  the  idea.  On  the  Egyp- 
tian side  are  the  mountains,  that  rose  high  on 
the  right  and  left,  while  the  sea  rolled  before 
them,  when  the  Lord  bade  Moses  speak  unto 
the  Children  of  Israel  that  they  go  forward. 
The  sea  is  about  twenty  miles  wide,  affording 
a plenty  of  room  to  gather  Pharaoh’s  host  for 
destruction ; and  upon  the  Arabian  shore 
Miriam  led  the  song, — “ I will  sing  unto  the 
Lord,  for  he  hath  triumphed  gloriously ; the 
horse  and  his  rider  hath  he  thrown  into  the 
sea.”  In  passing  these  spots  one  can  hardly 
help  being  drawn  to  him  who  has  wrought 
such  deliverances  for  his  people.  Standing 
upon  the  deck  we  look  off  on  the  Arabian 
desert  in  the  direction  the  Israelites  must  have 
taken.  What  an  ocean  of  sand  ! It  is  drifted 
in  little  ridges  resembling  the  wavy  surface 
of  the  sea,  and  as  free  from  vegetation. 

It  must  have  required  faith,  in  the  leader 
and  the  led,  when  those  multitudes  went 
forth  into  this  barren  desert,  not  knowing  the 


HOME  WARD . 


9-2 


source  of  their  supplies,  to  believe  that  God 
would  provide. 

Travelers  often  follow  their  track  on  camels; 
and  the  route  is  quite  practicable  for  those 
who  have  several  months  to  spare  for  Pales- 
tine. The  necessary  equipage  of  tents,  furni- 
ture, etc.,  even  for  a small  party,  forms  quite 
a caravan. 

Suez  is  built  upon  a barren  Sandy  plain, 
a most  lonely  and  uninviting  place,  where  it 
never  rains  and  there  is  searcely  a sign  of 
vegetation. 

We  had  taken  tickets  to  Suez,  intending 
to  go  by  railroad  through  Cairo  to  Alexan- 
dria. But  the  captain  invited  us  to  go  on 
as  far  as  Ismalia,  half  way  through  the  canal, 
and  see  this  wonder  of  human  skill  and 
enterprise.  It  is  one  hundred  miles  long,  and 
the  surface  of  the  water  about  as  many  feet 
broad,  though  the  tops  of  the  banks  are 
much  wider.  The  depth  is  sufficient  for 
vessels  drawing  twenty-two  feet.  The  banks 
are  composed  of  mud  or  sand,  only  in  a few 
places  faced  with  stone.  There  are  steamers 
in  sight  in  both  directions  nearly  all  the  time. 
One  just  ahead  of  us  got  across  the  canal  and 
a-ground.  This  made  it  necessary  for  us  to 
stop,  put  out  hawsers  and  make  fast  fore  and 
aft.  While  under  weigh,  the  vessel  steers 
readily,  but  the  moment  you  stop,  she  swings 


CARAVAN. 


ON  THE  SUEZ  CANAL. 


93 

round,  first  one  end  touches,  then  the  other 
on  the  opposite  side,  and  she  sticks  fast, 
square  across  the  canal.  A small  tug  kept 
on  the  caual  for  the  purpose,  came  up,  pulled 
off  the  steamer  ahead  of  us,  and  all  steamed 
along  again  at  half  speed,  the  fastest  rate 
allowed  on  the  canal. 


NIGHT  ON  THE  CANAL. 


Suez  on  the  Red  sea  and  Port  Said  on  the 
Mediterranean  are  at  the  extremities  of  the 
canal,  and  Ismalia  is  a thriving  village  near 


94 


HOMEWARD. 


the  middle.  We  have  Arabia  on  our  right, 
and  Egypt  on  our  left,  and  a barren  desert 
in  every  direction  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach. 

In  some  places  there  are  a few  scattering 
shrubs,  one  or  two  feet  high — then  seas  of 
barren  sands  without  a sign  of  vegetation. 
There  is  not  a village  or  house  in  sight  ex- 
cept the  guard  houses,  on  the  banks  of  the 
canal.  Now  and  then  you  see  a man  leading 
or  riding  a camel  or  donkey  and  this  is  the 
only  sign  of  life. 

Pliny  tells  us  that  the  ancients  constructed 
a canal  along  this  very  route  one  hundred 
feet  wide  and  connecting  these  seas.  It  was 
open  in  the  days  of  Alexander,  but  after  the 
decline  of  the  Roman  Empire,  fell  into  disuse, 
and  drifted  full  of  sand.  Though  the  Suez 
canal  is  a great  woik  and  far  reaching  in  its 
effects,  yet  the  tunnel  through  Mount  Cenis, 
or  the  railroad  over  the  Rocky  mountains, 
strikes  you  as  a far  more  stupendous  under- 
taking. 


XIII. 


1SMAILIA  TO  CAIRO. 

At  Ismailia  there  is  a little  lake  or  hay 
where  the  steamers  usually  anchor  lor  the 
night.  The  sun  was  just  going  down  behind 
the  Arabian  hills,  sending  us  his  last  flicker- 
ing rays  across  the  sandy  plain,  as  our  anchor 
dropped  and  the  noble  steamer  swung  round 
broad  side  to  the  Egyptian  shore,  more 
than  a mile  away.  We  had  been  on  board 
the  Glaueus  thirty  days.  The  time  had  passed 
so  pleasantly  that  we  left  the  agreeable  circle 
with  reluctance.  The  captain  kindly  lent  a 
boat,  and  as  the  shades  of  evening  were  deep- 
ening we  landed  upon  the  shores  of  Egypt. 

A number  of  natives  in  various  styles  of 
costume,  and  some  without  any  costume 
whatever,  immediately  came  around  begging 


96 


HOMEWARD. 


us  to  use  their  donkeys,  or  at  least  to  allow 
them  the  pleasure  of  carrying  our  baggage. 
Fearing  if  we  employed  one  we  might  offend 
another,  and  unable  to  divide  the  luggage  so 
as  to  give  each  a share,  we  were  in  a dilemma. 
From  this,  our  first  difficulty,  a dragoman 
kindly  offered  to  relieve  us.  Not  knowing 
what  else  to  do,  we  allowed  him  to  take 
charge.  He  guided  us  to  the  hotel  Paignon 
and  directed  our  baggage  to  follow.  What 
a cavalcade  is  marching  up  that  sandy  street! 
The  guide  leads  off  with  little  Katie  in  his 
amis,  and  the  rest  of  us  follow  in  order. 
Then  come  a line  of  natives,  each  with  a 
trunk,  carpet-bag,  or  some  other  parcel  on 
his  shoulder. 

The  Hotel  Paignon  is  a large,  first  class 
house,  overlooking  the  village  and  harbor. 
We  were  soon  pleasantly  settled  in  our  rooms, 
and  passed  a comfortable  night.  At  break- 
fast the  landlord  gave  us  some  of  the  famous 
Mocha  coffee,  of  which  he  seemed  quite  proud, 
and  it  was  really  delicious.  The  train  for 
Cairo  left  at  eleven,  so  we  spent  the  morning 
looking  about  the  village.  The  palatial  resi- 
dence of  the  Paslia  and  the  hotel  are  the  only 
fine  buildings  in  the  place.  It  is  as  yet  but 
a small  village  of  one  storied  houses  used  as 
shops  and  dwellings  for  the  poor.  We  meet 
peddlers  and  countrymen  crying  'their  goods, 


ISMAILIA  TO  CAIRO. 


97 


carried  upon  the  backs  of  donkeys.  In  the 
centre  of  the  town  there  is  a public  garden 
with  a variety  of  plants,  flourishing  and  grow- 
ing with  great  luxuriance,  though  a few  years 
ago  this  region  was  a barren  waste. 

Just  before  eleven  we  started  for  the  sta- 
tion under  the  guidance  of  our  dragoman  of 
the  night  before.  The  baggage  was  weighed 
and  an  Arab  clerk  with  a reed  style,  made 
out  in  strange  characters  a receipt  which  an- 
swered the  purpose  of  a check.  Paying  him, 
also  the  dragoman,  baggage  bearers  and  every 
body  else  who  had  touched  it,  we  bought 
our  tickets  and  took  seats  in  the  cars. 

The  road  from  Ismailia  to  Cairo  lies  through 
the  land  of  Goshenr  now,  as  in  the  days  of 
Joseph  a rich  plain,  owing  its  fertility  to  the 
waters  of  the  Nile.  Whereever  this  water 
is  thrown  upon  the  arid,  sandy  desert,  it 
“blossoms  as  the  rose.”  Fifty  miles  from  Is- 
mailia, at  a town  called  Zagazig,  we  cross 
the  new  railroad  from  Alexandria  to  Suez. 
Zagazig  is  a thriving  place  with  several  steam 
cotton  mills.  The  machinery  has  been  intro- 
duced from  England,  and  is  run  by  English 
capital. 

The  country  reminds  ns  of  China.  The 
fields  interspersed  with  groves  and  villages 
and  intersected  by  canals  and  narrow  paths, 
huts  built  of  sun-dried  bricks  with  thatched 


98 


HOMEWARD. 


roofs — donkeys  and  camels  wending  their 
way  along  the  narrow  paths — a donkey  and 
cow  yoked  together  drawing  the  plow, — the 
mode  of  irrigation,  the  long,  narrow  beds, 
ditches  and  canals  instead  of  fences,  all  re- 
semble China. 

The  passengers  in  the  cars  are  of  various 
nationalities;  Turks,  Arabs,  Greeks,  Egyp- 
tians, etc.  The  men  wear  a felt  skull  cap, 
called  a fez  and  fitting  close  to  the  head.  It 
has  no  brim,  but  a blue  silk  tassel  hangs  from 
the  apex  to  a little  below  the  bottom.  At 
the  numerous  stations  our  fellow  passengers 
bought  hard  boiled  eggs,  cakes,  sugar-cane, 
and  a bitter  vegetable  resembling  lettuce. 
The  latter  they  ate  with  great  relish,  giving 
us  a portion,  though  we  could  not  swallow 
a particle,  it  was  so  bitter.  The  sugar-cane 
they  chewed,  swallowing  the  sweet  juice  and 
throwing  the  refuse  over  the  floor.  In  this 

t O 

we  joined  them.  There  are  first,  second  and 
third  class  cars  on  the  same  train.  They 
made  long  stops  at  the  stations,  and  the 
s|  eed  was  not  great  when  in  motion.  At 
about  six  o’clock  we  reached  the  city  of  Cairo. 

Our  baggage  was  taken  upon  a low  wagon, 
drawn  by  a donkey,  to  the  Hotel  du  Ail. 
After  our  long  ride  in  the  cars  we  enjoyed  a 
walk  to  the  hotel,  though  there  were  many 
fine  carriages  placed  at  our  disposal  by  polite 


A BEAUTIFUL  PARK. 


99 


dragomans  and  accommodating  drivers.  There 
were  also  numerous  donkeys  urged  upon  us 
with  the  highest  recommendations.  We 
might  have  sat  astride  of  “ General  Grant,” 
bobbed  along  on  “ Tom  Thumb,”  or  galloped 
away  on  “Yankee  Doodle.”  We  however 
refused  all  their  kind  offers,  preferring  to 
stretch  the  tired  limbs,  cramped  up  in  the 
cars  for  the  last  seven  hours,  and  walked 
away,  leaving  the  dragomans,  drivers  and 
little  fellows  with  their  donkeys,  much 
disappointed. 

The  Nile  flows  past  the  station  and  crowds 
of  camels  and  donkeys,  laden  with  stone, 
timber,  etc.  are  crossing  the  bridge  with  us. 
The  broad  streets  are  lined  with  palm  and 
sycamore  trees,  and  beautiful  carriages  drawn 
by  fine  horses  are  driving  past.  Not  far 
away,  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  is  a magnifi- 
cent park  inclosed  with  a high  iron  fence.  A 
small  admission  fee  helps  to  keep  the  place 
in  order  as  will  as  to  keep  out  the  rabble.  In 
one  part  a band  is  playing  and  a crowd  is 
gathered  to  listen.  Here  and  there  scattered 
through  the  beautiful  grounds  are  groups  of 
various  nationalities,  moving  along  the  walks, 
standing  or  sitting  according  to  taste  or  incli- 
nation. Upon  one  side  is  a grotto  from  which 
a stream  of  clear  water  flows,  and  conducted 
by  a narrow  canal  winds  through  the  grounds. 


100 


HOMEWARD. 


The  canal  is  crossed  by  ornamental  bridges 
and  every  few  inches  on  each  side,  close  to 
the  water’s  edge,  there  is  a gas  jet,  with  a 
white  porcelain  shade.  Upon  the  surface  of 
a little  pond  in  the  middle,  swan  and  other 
birds  sport.  Tree-shaped  lamp  posts  are  scat- 
tered through  the  grounds  in  great  profuson. 
Each  branch  terminates  with  a gas  jet  within 
a shade,  shaped  and  colored  to  resemble  a 
tulip  or  some  other  flower.  The  tents  and 
bowers,  the  bands  of  music  and  rich  and  va- 
ried costumes  give  the  place  the  air  of 
land. 


XIV. 

CAIRO.— MOSQUES  AND  PYRAMIDS. 

On  the  public  square,  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  park  are  the  opera,  circus,  and  other  fine 
buildings.  They  are  all  built  after  European 
models.  A few  steps  further  and  you  find 
yourself  in  what  is  called  Old  Cairo.  The 
streets  are  narrow  and  crooked.  Each  story 
projects  a few  feet  beyond  the  one  below,  till, 
when  the  buildings  are  three  or  four  stories 
high,  neighbors  standing  at  the  upper  win- 
dows, may  shake  hands  across  the  street. 
The  lower  story  is  divided  into  small  rooms 
or  stalls  about  eight  feet  square,  filled  with 


STARTING  FOR  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


101 


goods  of  every  description.  Gay  silks,  shawls, 
handkerchiefs  and  gaudy  prints  are  exposed 
in  some  shops;  while  others  are  used  for 
the  sale  or  manufacture  of  pipes,  shoes, 
clothes,  etc. 

The  entrance  to  the  Hotel  du  Nil  is  from 
one  of  these  narrow  streets,  through  a low 
archway  by  no  means  prepossessing.  But  the 
moment  you  are  inside,  the  change  is  so  great 
you  seem  to  have  entered  enchanted  grounds. 
The  rooms  of  the  hotel  front  on  three 
sides  of  an  extensive  garden  of  palms,  and 
other  tropical  trees,  with  flowering  shrubs, 
graveled  walks  and  beautiful  fountains.  In 
the  centre  is  a sort  of  pavilion  used  as  a 
reading  room;  while,  scattered  around,  are 
specimens  of  sculpture  that  carry  the  mind 
back  to  Egypt’s  palmier  days. 

Having  secured  rooms,  we  had  an  interview 
with  a guide  recommended  by  the  friendly 
landlord.  It  was  arranged  that  he  should 
come  with  horses  and  carriage  to  start  for 
the  pyramids  immediately  after  breakfast. 
Returning  he  was  to  take  us  in  the  afternoon 
through  the  Bazar  to  the  citadel,  mosques,  etc. 
If  serving  us  and  our  interests  faithfully,  he 
was  to  receive  one  dollar  for  his  services.  As 
far  as  we  could  judge,  he  did  this  and  proved 
an  interesting  and  companionable  fellow.  A 
little  past  nine  we  started  with  a fine  carriage 


102 


HOMEWARD. 


and  good  span  of  horses.  Leaving  the  city 
we  crossed  the  Nile  and  passed  the  Pasha’s 
palace.  The  road  was  elevated  and  lay  be- 
tween rows  of  palm  and  acacia  trees.  The 
fields  of  nearly  ripe  wheat  were  waving  in 
the  breeze,  countrymen  were  going  and  com- 
ing with  then-  donkeys  and  camels  bearing 


THE  PYRAMIDS. 


various  commodities.  The  greater  number 
were  laden  with  fresh  green  clover.  Some 
have  spoken  of  the  pyramids  as  twelve  miles 
from  Cairo,  others  as  ten,  or  only  eight. 
They  came  in  sight  as  soon  as  we  were  out  of 
the  city  and  neither  then  nor  afterwards 


GOING  TO  TTIE  PYRAMIDS. 


103 


seemed  more  than  five  or  six  miles  off.  The 
air  was  fresh  and  clear  and  the  ride  over  the 
pleasant  road  was  really  enjoyable.  But 
the  pyramids  are  before  us,  and  we  are  ap- 
proaching them,  and  that  is  enough  to  send  a 
thrill  of  joy  through  the  heart.  The  road  is 
across  a nearly  level  plain,  here  and  there  well 
cultivated.  In  about  an  hour  we  were  at  the 
foot  of  a slight  eminence,  crowned  with  the 
greatest  monuments  of  antiquity. 

We  have  watched  these  strange,  wedge- 
shaped  structures  for  the  last  half  hour.  At 
first  they  were  upon  the  horizon,  standing 
out  against  the  sky  clear  and  well  defined. 
But  as  we  near  them  the  pyramidal  form  and 
the  rough,  jagged  cornel’s  appear,  and  steps 
are  seen  running  the  whole  length  formed 
by  the  blocks  of  stone  dropping  back  a few 
feet  each  tier.  It  is  not  till  you  have  walked 
round  them  that  yon  begin  to  appreciate 
their  great  magnitude.  The  ruins  of  an  old 
temple  are  nearly  covered  with  the  sand 
between  Cheops  * and  the  sphinx.  Beneath 


* Cheops  is  the  name  applied  to  the  principal  pyramid. 
It  covers  an  area  of  eleven  acres  of  land.  Some  of  the 
stones  of  which  it  is  built  are  thirty  feet  long  and  fifteen 
wide  and  four  feet  and  a half  deep.  It  is  four  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  high  and  it  is  estimated  that  the  material  of  which 
it  is  composed  would  be  sufficient  to  build  a wall  ten  feet 
high  and  eighteen  inches  thick  that  would  extend  three 
times  around  England  or  onco  around  France. 


104 


HOMEWARD. 


the  shadow  of  the  sphinx  * we  ate  the  lunch, 
our  landlord  had  thoughtfully  placed  in  the 
carriage,  and  then  leaving  the  rest  of  the 
party  to  walk  about  the  base  began  to 
ascend  the  largest  pyramid.  The  blocks  of 
stone  are  about  three  feet  square  and  from 
six  to  eight  feet  long.  Placing  your  knee 
upon  the  edge  of  one  you  easily  climb  to  its 
top,  especially  when  assisted  by  two  or  three 
Arabs, — say  two  ahead  pulling,  one  at  each 
arm,  and  a third  behind  pushing.  We  dis- 
pensed with  the  “follower”  and  finding  it 
mere  pastime  to  spring  from  stone  to  stone 
attempted  to  leave  our  Bedouin  companions 
in  the  rear. 

The  effort  was  too  great,  and  two  thirds  of 
the  way  up  we  stopped,  exhausted  and  unable 
to  proceed,  paying  dearly  for  such  rashness. 

We  lingered  a few  moments  to  enjoy  the 
extensive  prospect.  On  the  east  are  the  ruins 
of  ancient  Cairo — forming  little  hillocks  over- 
grown witli  grass.  Northward  is  Grand  Cairo, 
with  its  hundreds  of  graceful  minarets  rising 

* The  sphinx  is  a gigantic  figure,  half  woman  and  half 
lion,  hewn  from  solid  rock,  with  an  altar  between  its  paws. 
According  to  the  guide  hooks,  the  distance  to  the  top  of 
its  head  is  sixty-six  feet.  The  body  is  one  hundred  and 
two  feet  long,  and  the  paws  fifty  feet.  The  circumference 
of  its  human  head  is  one  hundred  feet,  the  mouth  is  two 
feet  wide  and  the  nose  is  four  feet  long.  Such  may  be  the 
dimensions,  but  there  is  little  now  above  the  sand,  except 
the  head  and  shoulders. 


EGYPTIAN  MUMMIES. 


VIEW  FROM  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


107 


above  the  palms  and  acacias.  Beyond  are 
the  rocky  bluffs  that  have  furnished  building 
stone  for  both  cities.  Looking  westward, 
there  is  a sandy  desert  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach ; the  white  sand  glowing  in  the  sun- 
light. The  course  of  the  silvery  Nile  can  be 
traced,  beautifying  the  valley  its  waters  so 
enrich. 

The  mummies,  sarcophagi  and  relics  of  an- 
tiquity, taken  from  the  pyramids  and  other 
parts  of  Egypt  are  found  in  museums  in  all 
lands. 

Descending  we  immediately  entered  the 
carriage  and  reached  Cairo  about  one  o’clock. 


XV. 

CAIRO— PEOPLE— DRESS,  ETC. 

The  dragoman  returned  in  the  afternoon 
with  the  carriage  to  take  us  through  the  city. 
We  drove  leisurely  along  the  streets,  alight- 
ing to  make  purchases  and  walk  through  the 
bazar.  The  streets  were  crowded  with  people 
on  foot,  riding  donkeys  and  in  carriages. 
There  is  a great  variety  of  nationality  and 
costume,  though  the  prevailing  dress  consists 
of  a red  cloth  cap  with  a dark  blue  silk  tassel 
hanging  from  the  crown,  or  a long  piece  of 


108 


HOMEWARD. 


cloth  or  shawl  wound  round  the  head  for  a 
turban,  and  a long  robe  fitting  close  round 
the  neck  girded  at  the  waist  and  hanging 
to  the  heels,  with  long  sleeves  extending 
a few  inches  beyond  the  ends  of  the 
fingers.  Over  this  is  worn  when  needed,  an- 
other cloth  garment  hanging  loose  from  the 
shoulders  to  the  ground;  the  sleeves  are  also 
longer  than  the  arm,  but  slit  from  the  elbow 
so  the  hand  may  be  covered  or  exposed  at 
pleasure.  In  the  presence  of  superiors  the 
hand  is  concealed.  The  Egyptians  never 
wear  stockings.  Their  shoes  are  usually  of 
red  morocco  with  toes  pointed  and  turning 
up.  Many  of  them  wear  a mustache  and 
black  bushy  whiskers.  In  their  hand  they 
always  carry  a pipe, — usually  with  a stem 
several  feet  long. 

The  dress  of  the  women  resembles  that  of 
the  men,  except  that  the  robe  is  open  on  both 
sides  from  the  hips  downwards.  It  is  also  cut 
so  as  to  leave  the  bosom  partially  exposed. 
A shawl  is  folded  and  carried  round  the 
waist  as  a girdle,  the  ends  hanging  behind. 
Over  the  robe  is  worn  a short  jacket  or  sacque 
embroideied  with  silk  or  gold.  A handker- 
chief with  gaudy  colors  is  wound  round  the 
head  forming  a turban  widely  differing  in 
shape  from  those  worn  by  the  men.  The  hair 
over  the  temples  is  arranged  in  little  ringlets, 


EGYPTIAN  COSTUME 


EGYPTIAN  COSTUMES. 


Ill 


while  the  rest  hangs  down  the  back  in  several 
braids,  to  which  gold  ornaments  are  suspend- 
ed by  black  silk  cords. 

When  a lady  goes  out  she  throws  over  her 
head  a piece  of  cloth  in  size  and  shape  re- 
sembling a sheet.  It  is  fastened  under  the 
chin  and  hangs  to  the  ground,  covering  the 
entire  person  excepting  the  face.  For  a mar- 
ried lady  this  covering  would  be  of  glossy 
black  silk,  and  for  an  unmarried  one  white 
silk,  white  muslin  or  a gay  colored  shawl. 

The  face  veil  is  a long  strip  of  white  muslin 
hanging  from  a little  below  the  eyes  to  near 
the  feet.  Many  of  the  women  of  the  lower 
ranks  wear  a black  crape  veil  in  like  manner 
covering  all  the  face  except  the  eyes  and  part 
of  the  forehead.  Says  Lane  in  his  “ Modern 
Egyptians:”  “The  women  of  Egypt  deem  it 
more  incumbent  upon  them  to  cover  the  up- 
per and  back  part  of  the  head  than  the  face ; 
and  more  requisite  to  conceal  the  face  than 
most  other  parts  of  the  person.” 

Another  says  he  has  seen  women  whose 
entire  apparel  consisted  of  a narrow  strip  of 
cloth,  and  this  they  hung  over  the  lower  part 
of  the  face,  leaving  the  eyes  and  every  other 
part  of  the  person  exposed. 

u It  is  Friday,”  says  our  dragoman,  “ we  can 
go  and  see  the  dancing  dervishes.”  Friday 
is  the  day  for  their  religious  services,  and  we 


112 


HOMEWARD. 


were  fortunate  in  being  in  Cairo  that  day. 
The  government  gives  the  priests  a support 
and  has  set  apart  a building  for  their  services. 
The  centre  of  the  hall  is  enclosed  by  a low 
circular  railing  within  which  the  priests,  if 
they  may  be  so  called,  sat  flat  upon  the  floor 
with  their  backs  to  the  railing.  They  wore 
long  grey  robes  and  conical  felt  hats,  a foot 
or  more  in  height,  without  brims.  In  the 
gallery  a band  was  playing  on  instruments  re- 
sembling the  fife.  The  chief  sat  on  a lamb’s 
skin  spread  upon  the  floor ; his  robe  differing 
from  the  rest  only  in  color.  When  the  music 
ceased  they  all  arose  and  commenced  to  march 
around  inside  the  enclosure  with  a slow,  mea- 
sured step. 

Each  one  as  he  came  to  the  spot  where  the 
chief  bad  sat,  stopped  and  bowed,  then  with 
one  long  step  placed  himself  immediately  in 
front  of  the  lambskin,  wheeling  around  so  as 
to  face  it.  In  a similar  manner  he  wheels  to 
the  opposite  side,  still  facing  the  lamb’s  skin. 
The  one  behind  him  has  come  up  and  stands 
on  the  other  side;  they  bow  to  each  other 
over  the  lamb’s  skin  and  the  foremost  one 
goes  on  leaving  the  one  that  follows  to  get 
round  this  obstacle  by  the  same  performance. 
Thus  they  continued  to  march  round  the 
room  and  bow  over  the  wool  skin  for  several 
minutes,  when  suddenly  every  one  of  them 


THE  DANCING  DEHVISHES. 


THE  DANCING  DERVISHES.  115 


started  off  into  the  middle  of  the  hall  twirling 
like  tops,  with  hands  raised  and  spread  out, 
the  head  thrown  back  and  the  gown  standing 
out  almost  horizontally  from  the  waist.  The 
dragoman  assuring  us  that  it  was  all  like  that 
to  the  end,  we  left,  and  for  aught  we  know 
they  are  spinning  still.  The  wonder  is  that 
they  do  not  become  dizzy  and  fall  to  the 
floor  before  they  have  taken  a dozen  turns. 

We  now  drove  past  several  mosques  to  the 
top  of  the  hill,  three  hundred  feet  above 
desert,  and  alighting  entered  the  gates  of  the 
citadel.  Crossing  the  court  we  put  off  our 
shoes  and  entered  the  Mosque  of  Mehemet 
Ali,  the  finest  structure  of  the  kind  in  Egypt. 
The  floor  is  covered  with  a thick  carpet. 
The  roof  is  supported  by  four  pillars,  arches 
connecting  them  with  the  corners  of  the 
building.  In  the  centre  is  a magnificent 
dome,  and  on  each  side  four  half  domes,  all 
beautifully  frescoed  and  adorned  in  the  most 
elaborate  and  florid  style.  Along  the  south- 
ern side  is  a gallery  built  of  alabaster,  and 
from  the  centre  of  the  dome  is  suspended  a 
highly  ornamented  chandelier  with  four  circles 
of  lamps.  In  the  south-east  corner  is  the 
tomb  of  Mehemet  Ali,  grandfather  of  the 
present  pasha.  The  sarcophagus  is  eighteen 
feet  long  by  twenty  wide,  built  of  marble 
and  covered  with  heavy  tapestry.  On  the 


116 


HOMEWARD. 


south  side  of  the  mosque  is  a large  court 
paved  with  white  marble  slabs,  some  of  which 
are  five  feet  square.  The  court  is  surrounded 
by  a colonnade  supported  by  forty-eight  mas- 
sive columns.  In  the  centre  is  an  octagonal 
alabaster  fountain  most  elaborately  carved 
an  1 ornamented.  The  mosques  all  have  foun- 
tains in  their  courts  where  the  moslems  wash 
before  prayers. 

It  was  within  this  citadel  that  the  slaughter 
of  the  Mamelukes  took  place.  They  were 
slaves  brought  from  Georgia.  About  the  year 
1250  they  overthrew  the  government,  and 
continued  to  rule  in  some  shape  till  the  year 
1806  when  Mehemet  Ali  was  invested  with 
the  government.  In  1811  he  became  jealous 
of  their  power  and  invited  them  to  a feast  in 
the  citadel ; as  they  arose  to  retire,  to  their 
astonishment  they  found  themselves  prisoners. 
They  exclaimed,  “We  are  betrayed!”  At 
that  instant  the  cry  of  “ Kill,  Kill  ” fell  upon 
their  ears,  and  the  Greek  soldiers  concealed 
in  ambush  for  the  purpose  opened  upon  them 
a deadly  fire,  under  which  all  fell  but  one, 
who  leaped  his  horse  over  a precipice  through 
a breach  in  the  wall  and,  though  his  home 
was  killed,  the  rider  escaped.  The  place 
where  he  made  this  fearful  leap  is  still 
pointed  out. 

Joseph’s  well  is  within  the  walls  of  the 


EGYPTIAN  TEMPLE. 


VIEW  FROM  THE  CITADEL. 


117 


citadel.  It  is  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
deep,  and  fifteen  feet  in  diameter ; you  may 
descend  to  the  bottom  by  a winding  stair- 
case. The  water  is  supplied  by  an  aque- 
duct from  the  Nile  and  raised  with  machinery 
worked  by  bullocks.  From  the  brow  of  the 
hill  upon  which  the  citadel  is  built,  we  had  a 
good  look  at  the  surrounding  country.  The 
city  lies  far  below,  the  streets  so  narrow  as 
to  be  scarcely  observed,  and  the  town  seems 
one  mass  of  flat  roofs,  domes,  minarets,  groves 
and  gardens.  To  the  west  are  the  pyramids. 
On  the  banks  of  the  Nile  to  the  south  is  the 
residence  of  the  pasha,  approached  through  a 
long  avenue  of  mulberries,  sycamores  and 
acacias.  The  palace  and  gardens  are  said  to 
surpass  any  thing  of  the  kind  in  Egypt.  On 
the  east,  near  the  city,  are  the  tombs  of  the 
kings,  and  further  away  the  ruins  of  ancient 
Cairo,  where  the  Pharaohs  dwelt  in  the  times 
of  Joseph  and  Moses. 

Having  seen  what  we  desired  of  Cairo,  and 
bought  a few  curios,  we  prepared  to  leave 
by  the  morning  train  for  Alexandria,  only 
regretting  that  we  could  not  visit  the  petrified 
forest,  six  or  eight  miles  distant.  While  we 
bear  testimony  to  the  great  kindness  of  the 
proprietor  of  the  hotel  and  all  connected 
with  it,  in  truth  it  must  be  said  that  we  were 
never  so  tormented  with  fleas  as  during  the  ' 


118 


HOMEWARD. 


two  nights  spent  there,  of  course  always  ex- 
cepting the  night  in  the  Chinese  inn,  when  on 
the  way  to  the  Great  wall  of  China. 


XVI. 

CAIRO  TO  ALEXANDRIA. 

It  was  the  sixth  of  April,  a fine,  spring-like 
morning,  that  we  left  Cairo  for  Alexandria. 
The  distance  is  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
and  seven  hours  are  required  to  make  the 
journey  by  railroad.  We  found  on  the  train 
a missionary  and  a party  of  clergymen  whom 
we  had  met  the  day  before.  The  missionary 
resides  at  Alexandria  and  had  been  to  Cairo 
to  attend  a series  of  meetings  connected  with 
his  work,*  We  all  united  in  questioning 
him,  while  traveling  leisurely  in  cars  moving 
about  sixteen  miles  an  hour. 

The  fields  are  looking  fresh,  though  rain 
seldom  falls  in  this  part  of  Egypt  except 
along  the  seacoast.  There  is  an  abundance 


* The  United  Presbyterian  Mission  has  more  than 
twenty  stations  with  eight  missionaries  and  about  as 
many  native  preachers.  “ They  have  six  hundred  and 
seventy  six  church  members  and  a sabbath  attendance  of 
twice  that  number  with  as  many  more  in  their  Sunday 
Schools.  Their  school  girls  do  not  wear  the  usual  face 
covering.” 


A SCENE  IN  EGYPT. 


EGYPT  AND  CHINA  COMPARED. 


121 


of  rain  in  the  highlands,  where  the  Nile  has 
its  source,  and  by  a system  of  irrigation  it  is 
made  to  water  all  this  beautiful  plain  across 
which  the  steam  horse  is  drawing  us.  There 
are  groves  of  palm  trees,  fields  of  wheat, 
nearly  ripe  patches  of  dark  green  clover  and 
other  crops,  upon  which  it  is  hard  to  believe 
rain  has  never  fallen. 

It  was  almost  impossible  for  one  fresh  from 
a twelve  years  residence  in  China,  not  to 
notice  the  numerous  points  of  resemblance, 
between  the  two  countries. 

These  little  clusters  of  huts,  built  of  sun- 
dried  bricks,  covered  with  palm  branches 
and  thatched  with  leaves,  though  inferior, 
yet  in  their  general  appearance  resemble  Chi- 
nese villages.  In  both  countries,  the  better 
class  of  buildings  are  arranged  around  a court 
with  doors  opening  on  all  sides.  But  unlike 
China,  one  of  these  doors  opens  into  the 
harem.  The  rooms  appropriated  to  Chinese 
ladies  are,  as  far  as  possible,  in  the  rear  of 
the  other  buildings.  In  the  houses  there  are 
no  fire  places,  but  as  in  the  north  of  China, 
the  bedstead  is  composed  of  masonry,  with  a 
furnace  at  one  end  and  a flue  through  it  to 
warm  the  sleeper. 

In  Egypt  as  in  China,  the  pupil  is  set  to 
commit  his  lesson  to  memory,  expected  to 
turn  his  back  to  the  book  and  teacher,  and 


122 


HOMEWARD. 


keeping  time,  by  swaying  his  body  back  and 
forth,  recite  it  word  for  word. 

As  in  China,  they  shave  their  heads,  with 
the  exception  of  a tuft  on  the  crown,  though 
they  do  not  braid  this  into  a queue.  Like 
the  Chinese  they  have  beautiful  white  teeth, 
and  stain  the  nails  and  paint  the  lips  and 
face. 

Their  custom  of  betrothal  through  a brok- 
er to  a person  they  have  never  seen,  is  very 
similar  to  what  is  practiced  in  China.  Their 
farming  implements,  and  the  buffalo  used  for 
raising  water  and  plowing,  all  remind  us  of 
China. 

Not  far  from  Cairo  the  waters  of  the  Nile 
are  divided,  and  flow  on  through  distinct  and 
widely  separated  channels.  The  first  branch 
which  we  crossed  is  called  the  Damietta. 
The  railroad  bridge  at  this  point  was  built  by 
English  engineers,  and  is  a fine  structure. 
The  country  is  perfectly  level  and  would,  but 
for  its  associations,  be  very  uninteresting. 

We  reached  Alexandria  early  in  the  after- 
noon, having  been  in  the  cars  more  than 
seven  hours.  As  the  steamer  for  Jaffa  was  to 
leave  in  the  evening,  we  had  only  time  to 
take  our  passage  and  get  on  board.  Expecting 
to  return,  we  did  not  so  much  regret  leaving 
this  interesting  spot.  Here  Apollos  was  born 
and  Mark  died,  and  here  are  still  some  inter- 


rOMFEY  S FILLAK 


POMPEY’S  PILLAR. 


123 


esting  relics  of  the  past.  On  an  other  occa- 
sion we  took  a carriage  and  drove  out  to  see 
Pompey’s  pillar.  It  is  outside  of  the  city  wall, 
on  a slight  eminence,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
wonderful  works  of  man  we  have  ever  seen. 
It  is  a round  column  of  red  granite,  seventy 
three  feet  high,  and  thirty  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, composed  of  a single  block  of  stone. 
Including  base  and  capital,  it  is  ninety  feet 
high.  There  is  no  such  stone  in  this  part  of 
Egypt.  How  it  could  have  been  brought  from 
its  quarry,  one  or  two  hundred  miles  distant, 
and  how  raised  to  its  present  perpendicular 
position,  are  questions  often  asked  but  not  yet 
satisfactorily  answered. 

The  story  is  told  of  a sea  captain  who 
swore  he  would  drink  a bowl  of  punch  on  the 
top  of  Pompey’s  pillar.  Those  who  heard 
him  wondered  if  he  would  be  able  to  keep  his 
rash  vow.  He  procured  a kite  and  flew  it  till 
the  string  lay  across  the  top  of  the  pillar. 
With  the  kite  line  he  drew  up  a small  cord 
and  with  that  a rope  ladder,  upon  which  he 
and  his  companions  ascended,  and  where  he 
doubtless  kept  his  pledge. 

Cleopatra’s  needles  are  on  the  other  side  of 
the  city  and  close  to  the  shores  of  the  Medi- 
terranean. There  is  but  one  standing,  the 
other  lies  prostrate  near  by.*  They  are  red 


* This  one  has  since  been  taken  to  England. 


124 


HOMEWARD. 


granite  obelisks,  from  tlie  same  region  as 
Pompey’s  pillar  and  about  sixty-six  feet  long. 
They  formerly  stood  at  Heliopolis,  and  it  is 
said  were  brought  to  Alexandria  by  one  of 
the  Cgesars. 


XVII. 

ALEXANDRIA  TO  JAFFA. 

The  great  highway  of  the  world  lies 
through  Egypt.  If,  however,  it  lay  quite  off 
the  track  of  common  travel,  in  planning  a 
trip  around  the  world  we  would  go  consider- 
ably out  of  our  way  rather  than  pass  a coun- 
try so  renowned  in  history  and  possessing  so 
many  interesting  monuments  of  the  past. 
But  leaving  Egypt,  Palestine  and  all  Europe 
lay  spread  out  temptingly  before  us.  If  one 
could  devote  his  whole  life  to  travel,  or  even 
a year  or  two,  it  would  be  easier  to  decide. 
The  Holy  Land  possesses  more  interest  to  us 
than  any  other  part  of  the  world,  not  except- 
ing Greece  and  Rome,  France  and  Great 
Britain. 

Palestine  is  easily  reached  from  Alexandria. 
There  are  three  or  more  lines  of  steamers 
running  round  the  Mediterranean,  stopping 
at  Alexandria  and  Jaffa.  The  one  sailing 


AT  PORT  SAID. 


125 


about  the  time  we  wished  to  start  happened 
to  be  of  the  French  line,  very  popular  with 
most  travelers.  And  it  ought  to  be  for  the 
second  class  fare,  upon  these  steamers,  is  fully 
equal,  in  cleanliness  and  almost  every  other 
respect,  to  the  first  class  on  the  other  lines. 
Escaping  from  the  almost  innumerable  run- 
ners and  boatmen,  that  swarm  round  you  like 
hungry  musquitoes  and  hang  on  like  leeches, 
we  went  on  board  Saturday  afternoon  at 
four  o’clock.  The  steamer  sailed  about  five. 
Fearing  sea-sickness,  we  got  in  readiness,  as 
far  as  possible,  to  retire.  But  the  sea  was 
not  boisterous  and  we  sat  up  till  late  in  the 
evening,  watching  the  shore  as  long  as  it 
could  be  seen,  then  the  light-houses  and  star- 
ry heavens, — talking  with  fellow  passengers 
of  what  we  had  seen  elsewhere  and  expected 
to  see  in  Palestine.  Early  the  next  morning 
going  on  deck  we  found  ourselves  approach 
ing  Port  Said  at  the  Mediterranean  end  of 
the  Suez  canal. 

This  is  a large  village  scattered  over  con- 
siderable territory.  The  houses  are  small 
and  mean  looking,  the  streets  broad  and 
sandy,  and  the  inhabitants  of  all  nationalities. 
The  harbor  was  constructed  by  extending  a 
wall  of  artificial  stones  out  into  the  sea.  The 
blocks  are  formed  of  sand  and  cement  and 
thrown  into  the  sea  one  upon  another,  form 


homeward. 


126 


ing  an  irregular  wall  against  which  the  sand 
is  piled  up  by  the  action  of  the  water,  form- 
ing a strong  breakwater.* 

This  place  owes  its  importance  to  the  Suez 
canal,  and  already  has  considerable  business. 
The  light-house  is  a handsome  stone  structure. 
We  spent  the  Sabbath  in  the  harbor  of  Port 
Said,  and  when  we  arose  the  next  morning, 
mount  Carmel  and  the  hills  of  Judea  were  in 
sight  and  we  were  approaching  Jaffa,  the 
Joppa  of  the  Bible. 

It  has  a magnificent  situation  on  a high 
promontory,  the  streets  rising  in  terraces  one 
above  another,  and  as  seen,  when  approach- 
ing it  from  seaward,  embowered  in  orange 
groves,  with  the  fragrance  of  their  blossoms 
borne  to  you  on  the  breeze,  it  seems  very 
attractive. 

The  steamer  dropped  anchor  some  distance 
from  land,  and  boats  came  off  for  passengers. 
We  engaged  one  to  take  us  ashore,  and  were 
soon  on  our  way,  to  land  in  one  of  the  most 
difficult  ports  in  the  world. 

It  was  a clear,  calm,  beautiful  morning  the 
eighth  of  April.  The  sea  was  smooth,  and 
we  would  have  been  fortunate  if  we  had  ex- 
perienced as  little  trouble  after  landing  as 

* Eacli  block  is  thirteen  feet  long  by  sis  feet  wide  and 
six  feet  deep.  There  are  25,000  blocks,  each  weighing  20 
tons  and  said  to  cost  $200  each.  The  last  item  seems  ex- 
orbitant. 


LANDING  IN  PALLS  TINE. 


127 


before  reaching  the  shore.  Our  passport  was 
in  one  of  the  trunks  left  in  Alexandria.  Here 
seemed  a dilemma.  But  this  difficulty  was 
soon  surmounted.  A gentleman  in  the  com- 
pany presented  his  and  it  answered  for  the 
whole  party.  We  were  passed  at  once  with- 
out any  questions.  But  our  baggage  must 
pay  a fee ; “ certainly,  with  pleasure.”  We 
had  advanced  but  a short  distance  towards 
the  hotel,  when  the  baggage  was  stopped 
and  another  demand  made  lor  custom  house 
fees.  We  met  this,  and  determined  to  resist 
any  further  squeeze.  We  walked  up  through 
the  narrow,  dirty  streets  with  the  flat  roofed 
stone  houses  rising  on  each  side,  jostled  by 
camels,  donkeys  and  mule  drivers  at  every 
step.  All  sorts  of  goods  are  exposed  for  sale, 
in  small  shops,  or  at  stands  along  the  side- 
walks. 

So  many  travellers  “ were  arriving  that 
the  people  were  indulging  great  expectations 
and  nothing  but  princely  gifts  would  satisfy 
them.  I tendered  the  leader  of  the  band 
that  escorted  us  what  was  his  due,  but  he 
indignantly  rejected  it,  demanding  five  times 
as  much,  and,  when  I quietly  put  the  money 
into  my  pocket,  he  and  his  whole  crew  lashed 
themselves  into  a towering  passion  in  true 
oriental  style,  and  made  all  sorts  of  threaten- 
ing demonstrations.  Verily,  it  seemed  as  if 


128 


HOME  WJ  BP 


tbe  Philistines  were  upon  us.  In  the  course 
of  an  hour  or  two  he  expressed  his  willing- 
ness to  accept  what  I offered,  said  he  was 
satisfied,  and  added  a ‘ Thank  you.’  ” The 
above  Dr.  Prime,  gives  as  his  experience  and 
it  was  almost  identically  ours ; and  probably 
with  but  little  variation  is  the  experience  of 
every  traveller  who  lands  at  Jaffa. 

Here  it  is  said  Noah  lived  and  built  the 
ark.  Here  the  cedars  of  Lebanon,  used  in 
building  the  temple,  were  landed.  Here 
Jonah  embarked  for  Tarshish.  Here  Peter 
raised  Tabitha  from  the  dead  and  had  the 
extraordinary  vision  which  led  him  to  carry 
the  gospel  to  the  heathen. 

In  1799  Napoleon  took  Jaffa  and,  it  is 
said,  ordered  more  than  one  hundred  sick 
Turkish  prisoners  to  be  poisoned,  and  thou- 
sands to  be  slain  in  cold  blood,  after  they  had 
surrendered  as  prisoners  of  war.  After  get- 
ting comfortably  settled  at  the  Jerusalem 
Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  Hardegg,  we  visited  the 
bouse  where  tradition  says  Simon  the  tanner 
lived  at  the  time  he  had  Peter  for  a guest. 
We  went  on  the  top  of  the  house,  which  is 
nearly  level,  and  thought,  if  this  is  not  tbe 
very  house  it  probably  stood  near  here  “by 
the  sea-side,”  as  this  does.  But  these  stone 
walls  and  arches  supporting  the  stone  roof  may 
have  stood  for  more  than  eighteen  centuries  as 


IN  THE  ROLY  LAND. 


329 


far  as  we  know7.  It  became  to  us  the  very 
bouse  and  spot  where  Pete]-  prayed.  We 
paused  a short  time  to  reflect  and  seemed  car- 
ried back  to  New  Testament  times.  Plucking 
a few  flowers,  blooming  upon  the  top  of  the 
house,  we  took  a good  look  out  over  the  blue 
Mediterranean,  and  realized  more  than  when 
in  the  crowded,  dirty,  narrow  street  that  we 
were  indeed  in  the  Holy  Land.  From  here 
we  went  to  visit  Miss  Arnott’s  school.  She  has 
under  her  care,  about  thirty  girls  of  various 
nationalities.  The  little  Greek  girls  were 
very  pretty.  Miss  Mary  Baldwin  has  a 
school  of  sixty  boys  also  supported  by  chari- 
ty. it  is  at  present  in  charge  of  Mrs.  Hay. 
It  was  amusing  to  hear  some  of  the  boys 
give  their  names.  One  said  his  name  was 
Naaman,  another  was  called  Kashib, — a guide. 
What  w7e  saw  of  these  two  Missions  schools 
quite  pleased  us.  Want  of  time  only,  pre- 
vented us  from  seeing  more  of  the  missionary 
work.  We  soon  completed  arrangements  to 
start  in  the  afternoon  for  Jerusalem. 


XVIII. 


GOING  UP  TO  JERUSALEM. 

The  distance  from  Jaffa  to  Jerusalem  is 
variously  stated  to  he  from  thirty  to  forty 
miles.  It  is  a hard  day’s  ride  on  horse  back, 
especially  tor  ladies  and  others  unaccustomed 
to  such  exercise.  There  are  three  routes. 
One  takes  the  traveller  through  Rami  eh, 
and  Lydda,  another  through  Kirjath-jearim 
and  Latron,  or  striking  across  a little  furth- 
er north,  you  pass  Gibecn  and  Mizpeh.  Our 
plan  was  to  go  as  far  as  Ramleh  the  first  day, 
and  spend  the  night  there.  Then  with  only 
about  two  thirds  of  the  distance  before  us, 
reach  Jerusalem  sometime  the  next  after- 
noon. By  this  arrangement  we  could  get 
supper,  lodging  and  breakfast,  at  the  Latin 
convent,  which  is  kept  open  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  travellers,  something  like  a hotel. 


The  monk-  have  no  fixed  price,  yet  few  give 
them  less  than  they  pay  elsewhere;  all  gained 
bv  the  enterprise  goes  for  the  support  <>f  the 
church. 

The  dragoman  was  to  provide  a lunch  for 
the  second  day,  a donkey  for  the  bag- 
gage, a mule  with  panniers  for  the  three 
children,  and  a horse  for  each  of  the  others. 
There  were  two  or  three  other  parties  start- 
ing at  the  same  time,  each  under  the  leader- 
ship of  its  own  dragoman. 

After  considerable  delay  the  horses,  etc., 
arrived  in  front  of  the  hotel;  the  donkey-boys 
shouting  and  screaming,  the  horses  kicking 
and  squealing,  the  donkeys  wandering  among 
the  other  animals,  braying  and  throwing  up 
their  hind  legs  as  if  trying  to  stand  on  their 
heads  or  about  to  throw  a summer-set.  After 
helping  others  into  their  panniers  and  saddles 
I mounted  the  only  Arab  left.  Though 
badly  broken  and  at  first  rather  unmanage- 
able, he  proved  the  most  spirited  and  one  of 
the  fleetest  horses  in  the  whole  cavalcade. 

The  streets  and  lanes  as  you  leave  Jaffa 
are  narrow,  and  some  of  the  party  nearly  ran 
over  the  little  donkeys  with  their  heavy 
loads ; then  the  dragomans  beat  the  donkey 
drivers,  for  not  keeping  out  of  the  way.  One 
fierce  Arab  dragoman  pursued  a donkey 
driver  and  cut  him  so  severely  with  his  lash 


132 


HOMEWARD. 


that  the  blood  flowed  tVeely  from  his  arms 
and  shoulders. 

On  either  side,  as  you  pass  along,  are 
beautiful  orchards  of  citrons,  lemons,  apricots, 
and  oranges.  There  is  an  abundance  of  the 
latter  full)  ripe, — large  and  delicious  and 
marvelously  cheap.  Then  upon  the  same 
branches  are  the  little  oranges,  which  will 
mature  in  another  year,  and  blossoms  sending 
forth  their  sweet  perfume. 

These  orchards  are  separated,  and  fenced  in 
from  the  road,  by  hedges  of  prickly  pear  or 
cactus.  They  resemble  those  we  see  in  flower 
pots,  only  so  much  larger.  The  leaves  are 
ten  or  fifteen  feet  long  and  four  or  five  feet 
broad,  and  near  the  ground,  nearly  a foot  in 
diameter. 

The  huts  of  those  who  cultivate  the  ground 
are  scattered  among  the  orchards,  miserable 
and  wretched  enough. 

Merging  from  these  orange  groves  we  come 
upon  an  open  country,  slightly  undulating. 
Here  you  see  a man  plowing,  there  a flock  of 
sheep  while  on  the  road  are  travelers,  mounted 
upon  fleet  Arab  horses,  donkeys  heavily  laden 
and  urged  on  by  the  merciless  lash,  or  caravans 
of  camels,  moving  along  with  their  slow  and 
measured  tread. 

It  is  the  eighth  of  April,  a beautiful,  spring- 
like day.  Our  way  lies  across  the  plains  of 


SCENE  IX  PALESTINE. 


AT  A LATIN  CONVENT. 


135 


Sharon,  radiant  with  wild  flowers  of  every 
hue,  though  the  purple  tint  seems  to  prevail. 
Most  prominent  are  the  deep  red  anemone, 
called  the  Rose  of  Sharon.  We  reached  the 
Latin  convent  in  the  village  of  Ramleh*  about 
sunset,  and  were  kindly  received  by  the 
monks  who  assigned  us  neatly  furnished  rooms 
and  soon  prepared  a comfortable  supper.  We 
rambled  around  the  place  and  visited  the  ruins 
of  an  old  Church  on  the  west  of  the  village. 
The  tower  is  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
high.  Around  it  are  the  remains  of  a spacious 
Khan.  Some  of  the  arches  are  still  standing, 
and  under  the  centre  of  the  area  are  extensive 
vaults.  The  tower  is  Saracenic,  square  and 
beautifully  built.  The  angles  are  supported 
by  slender  buttresses,  and  the  sides  taper 
upwards  in  stories.  A narrow  winding  stair- 
case, lighted  by  pointed  windows,  leads  to  the 
top,  where  it  opens  on  an  extensive  stone 
gallery  carried  quite  around  the  tower.  From 
the  top  there  is  a most  interesting  view  of  the 
plain.  Ramleh  is  immediately  below  you,  em- 
bowered in  olive  groves  and  orchards,  with 
palms  and  sycamores  rising  here  and  there. 
Gardens  and  fields  of  grain,  fenced  by  hedges 
of  cactus,  give  a rich  and  flourishing  aspect  to 

* This  is  Arimethea  where  the  Joseph  lived,  whose  new 
tomb  afforded  a brief  resting  place  for  our  Lord’s  precious 
body. 


136 


HOMEWARD. 


the  town.  The  houses  are  of  stone,  with  flat 
roofs.  Lydda*  is  seen  on  a slight  eminence 
to  the  north-east,  wThile  north  and  south  the 
eye  wanders  over  a vast,  rich  plain,  well  cul- 
tivated and  covered  with  green  fields  of 
wheat  or  variegated  with  beautiful  wild  flow- 
ers. On  the  west  is  the  sea,  and  on  the  east 
the  mountains  of  Israel,  which  we  hope  to 
cross  on  the  morrow.  It  is  a rich  and  beauti- 
ful country,  we  thought,  wending  our  way 
back  to  the  convent ; and  the  people  would 
be  prosperous  and  happy  if  under  a good 
government.  But  all  these  heathen  govern- 
ments plunder  the  people  and  make  little  or 
no  return  for  all  the  taxes  and  revenues  they 
collect. 

After  a comfortable  night’s  rest  and  a good 
breakfast,  we  started  early  and  moved  on  as 
fast  as  possible,  while  it  was  cool.  By  noon 
we  had  crossed  the  plain,  and  were  at  the 
commencement  of  the  highlands,  or  a series 
of  hills  which  continue  all  the  way  to  Jer- 
usalem. We  sat  down  on  a large  rock, 
beneath  shady  trees,  and  ate  the  lunch  or 
dinner  provided  by  the  dragoman.  It  con- 
sisted of  cold  fowl,  mutton,  hard-boiled  eggs, 
bread  and  butter,  etc.  We  were  all  hungry 


* This  is  the  place  where  Peter  healed  iEneas,  for  eighty 
years  sick  with  the  palsey ; from  here  he  was  summoned 
to  Joppa  after  the  death  of  Dorcas. 


TEE  MOUNTAIN  BOBBER. 


137 


and  enjoyed  it.  The  poor  men  living  in  the 
neighborhood  came  round,  contending  with 
dogs  for  the  bones;  when  they  secured  one 
the  men  had  the  advantage  over  the  dogs. 
While  the  dog  gnawed  and  chewed  his,  vain- 
ly striving  to  crack  it,  the  man,  with  one-well 
aimed  blow  from  a rock,  broke  open  the  bone 
and  reached  the  marrow.  The  horses  fed  for 
a short  time  while  we  rested,  and  then  we 
mounted  and  began  the  ascent  of  the  hills. 

This  is  the  “ Gate  of  the  valley.”  Former- 
ly a sheik  lived  here  and  kept  this  mountain 
pass,  levying  a tax  on  the  pilgrims.  For 
many  years  he  was  the  terror  of  the  country. 
But  he  and  his  family  have  long  since  been 
crushed  and  the  road  is  now  quite  safe. 

The  path  at  first  follows  a valley  or  ravine, 
then  winds  up  over  the  hill,  with  olive  groves 
on  each  side,  and  now  and  again,  at  long 
intervals,  a house.  From  this  point  it  is  very 
hilly,  up  one  side  and  down  the  other,  hill 
after  hill  all  the  way.  The  valleys  are  small, 
narrow  and  cultivated;  the  hills  rocky  and 
barren.  They  are  low  and  not  very  steep. 
Hills  like  these  in  any  other  country  would 
be  covered  with  vegetation. 

From  some  of  the  hill  tops  there  are  fine 
views.  The  blue  Mediterranean,  with  its 
white  line  of  sandy  shore,  and  the  green  plain, 
dotted  with  villages  forms  a pretty  picture. 


138 


HOMEWARD. 


The  valley  of  Elah,  where  David  slew  Go- 
liath, is  the  largest  and  best  cultivated  that 
we  passed.  The  hills  slope  down  each  side, 
with  a narrow  level  space  at  the  bottom, 
where  the  champions  stood  in  full  sight  of 
the  two  aimies,  encamped  on  the  hill-sides 
over  against  each  other. 

This  valley  is  now  planted  with  vines  and 
finit-trees.  Some  of  the  party  gathered 
stones  from  the  brook  where  David  took  his, 
others  plucked  flowers  from  a quince  tree 
growing  near  by.  Here  we  met  a runner  for 
one  of  the  hotels  in  Jerusalem,  wTo  accom- 
panied us  the  rest  of  the  w-ay.  As  wre  drewr 
near  to  the  Holy  City,  he  was  understood  to 
say  it  could  be  seen  from  the  next  hill-top. 
The  children,  tired  with  the  long  and  uncom- 
fortable ride,  readily  partook  of  the  anxiety 
which  we  all  manifested  to  get  a glimpse  of 
this  most  interesting  spot.  But  there  was  a 
mistake,  and  we  reached  the  top  of  one  hill 
after  another,  and  our  eyes  were  not  gratified 
with  the  sight.  The  little  ones  inquired 
again  and  again,  “Can  wre  see  Jerusalem, 
papa?  Is  it  in  sight  yet?”  “Not  yet,  my 
child;  perhaps  from  the  next  hill  you  will 
see  it,”  was  the  oft  repeated  reply.  But  at 
last  we  reached  the  top  of  a high  hill,  where 
we  got  our  first  view  of  the  Holy  City. 
Bethlehem  is  in  sight  among  beautiful  slopes 


FIRST  BIGHT  OF  JERUSALEM. 


139 


to  the  south.  It  looks  a lovely  spot,  fit  birth- 
place for  the  Saviour. 

Mizpeh  is  seen  on  a hill  at  the  north,  and 
before  us,  not  far  away,  is  Jerusalem ! The 
setting  sun  is  gilding  its  domes  and  minarets, 
and  shining  pleasantly  upon  the  side  of  Olivet, 
which  forms  the  back  ground  of  the  picture. 
The  city  seems  smaller  than  we  had  antici- 
pated. The  wall  around  it  and  the  city 
gates,  are  such  as  we  have  been  long  accus- 
tomed to  in  the  east,  and  we  hasten  on  to 
enter  the  gates  and  tread  its  streets,  with 
hearts  full  of  joy  and  gratitude  for  the  privi- 
lege of  standing  on  ground  hallowed  by  so 
many  sacred  associations. 

XIX. 

JERUSALEM. 

We  entered  the  Holy  City  through  the 
North,  or  Damascus  gate, and  went  at  once  to 
the  Hotel  D’Amerique. 

Is  was  too  late  in  the  afternoon  to  do  mnch 
more  than  get  comfortably  settled.  We  found 
a way  to  the  house-top  from  a balcony  on  the 
second  story,  and  were  out  early  the  next 
morning  to  see  the  sun  rise  over  Olivet.  The 
houses  are  of  solid  masonry,  the  second  floor 
or  roof  being  supported  by  arches.  There  are, 


140 


HOMEWARD. 


however,  no  floors,  but  instead,  a pavement  of 
brick  or  stone,  and  for  the  roof  this  pave- 
ment is  plastered.  There  is  scarcely  any 
wood  about  the  houses  the  very  stair  ways 
are  of  stone. 

The  light  was  rolling  up  in  the  east,  and  a 
slight  shower  passing  over  the  city,  when  we 
reached  the  top  of  the  houses.  It  was  a most 
solemn  and  impressive  moment.  Looking 
southward,  a little  to  the  right,  is  Mount  Zion, 
where  King  David  dwelt.  Immediately  be- 
fore, and  very  near  to  where  we  stand,  is  the 
Mosque  of  Omar,  on  the  site  of  the  temple 
where  God  wras  visibly  present,  and  where 
the  Son  of  God  walked  and  taught.  A little 
further  to  the  left,  over  the  city  wall  and 
across  the  narrow  valley,  apparently  a stone’s 
throw  from  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  lies  the 
Mount  of  Olives. 

Jerusalem  is  spread  out  like  a map  before 
us.*  We  stand  a moment  thinking  of  its  varied 
fortunes.  No  other  city  so  blessed  or  cursed! 
Seventeen  times  has  it  been  taken  and  pillag- 
ed, and  within  its  walls  millions  of  human 
beings  have  been  slaughtered.  What  dis- 
tinguished characters  have  lived  here,  -walked 
these  streets  and  looked  upon  this  scenery ! 

While  thus  meditating  the  sun  came  up 

* The  population  of  Jerusalem  is  about  24,000  of  which 
only  500  are  English  speaking;  4000  are  Jews. 


OLIVET  AND  GETIISEMANE. 


141 


over  Olivet,  first  gilding  tlie  domes  and  towers 
on  Mount  Zion,  then  Moriah,  and  finally  shin- 
ing cheerfully  upon  the  whole  city.  The 
birds  are  chirping  and  singing,  the  Arabs  are 
calling  to  their  donkeys,  or  hawking  their 
produce  through  the  narrow  streets  below. 
As  the  sun  rises  higher,  the  olive  trees  and 
other  shrubs,  and  every  rock  and  path  on  the 
Mount  of  Olives,  can  be  distinctly  seen.  It 
seems  very  near,  and  only  a slight  elevation, 
being  about  two  hundred  feet  higher  than  the 
city  wall. 

One  of  our  first  walks  was  out  through  the 
eastern  gate,  across  the  valley  to  the  garden 
of  Getlisemane,  and  over  the  Mount  of  Olives 
to  Bethany.  We  lingered  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  garden,  sat  a few  minutes  in  the  enclosure 
said  to  be  the  very  spot  where  our  Saviour 
went  with  his  disciples  to  suffer  and  pray  for 
us,  picked  a few  of  the  pretty  wild  flow- 
ers now  in  full  bloom,  and  then  commenced 
climbing  the  mountain.*  There  is  a path  wind- 
ing round  the  southern  end  to  Bethany,  and 
another  leading  almost  directly  up  its  western 
slope  to  the  top.  We  took  a direction  be- 
tween the  two,  and  in  a zigzag  course  picked 
our  way  up  the  mountain,  often  pausing  to 
look  off  over  the  city  and  landscape.  Around 


* The  garden  of  Gethsemano  is  enclosed  with  a high  wall 
and  contains  about  half  an  acre  of  land  and  several  olive  trees. 


142 


HOMEWARD. 


us  are  many  old  graves  with  Hebrew  and 
Latin  inscriptions.  Outside  the  walls  of  the 
city  and  on  the  Mount  of  Olives,  are  the 
white  tents  of  travellers,  usually  flying  their 
nation’s  flag. 

Imagine  our  surprise  and  pleasure  when 
there  issued  from  one  of  these  tents,  with  a 
warm  greeting,  Rev.  Mr.  Taylor,  whom  we 
had  not  seen  since  we  were  in  Union  College 
together  sixteen  years  ago,  and  Rev.  Mr. 
Sturgis,  a classmate  and  friend  of  a dear 
brother.  From  a tower  on  the  top  of  Olivet, 
we  had  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  ex- 
tensive views  our  eyes  ever  rested  upon. 
We  look  down  upon  Jerusalem,  every  street 
and  house  distinctly  visible.  Mizpeh  and 
Gfibeon  are  five  or  six  miles  distant  to  the 
north,  Bethlehem  about  the  same  distance 
to  the  southwest,  and  Bethany  less  than  a 
mile  a little  south  of  east.  There  is.  a gradual 
descent  to  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  and  Red 
sea,  which  is  in  sight,  and  in  this  clear  at- 
mosphere seems  very  near,  though  twenty 
miles  away.  The  mountains  of  Moab  beyond 
rise  like  a wall,  Nebo  being  one  of  the  highest 
points.  Bethel  is  in  sight,  only  ten  miles 
distant,  directly  north.  A high  mountain, 
with  a volcanic  appearance,  about  ten  miles 
off  in  the  other  direction,  marks  the  location 
of  Hebron  a few  miles  from  its  southern  base. 


THE  DEAD  SEA,  AND  THE  CONVENT  OE  SANTA  SABA 


A BRIDGE  OVER  THE  JORDAN. 


FROM  “ THREE  WEEKS  IN  PALESTINE .”  145 


On  the  west  we  look  across  to  the  Mediter- 
ranean sea,  distinctly  seen  in  a clear  day. 
“We  remembered  Josephus’  description  of 
the  beauty  of  Solomon’s  temple  as  seen  in  the 
morning  sun  light,  and  as  we  looked  towards 
Jerusalem  the  words  rose  to  our  lips,  as  they 
had  never  done  before,  ‘ Beautiful  for  situa- 
tion, the  joy  of  the  whole  earth  is  Mount  Zion.’ 
The  situation  of  Jerusalem  is  unlike  that  of 
any  other  city  I have  ever  seen.  Surrounded 
by  mountains,  and  built  upon  a mountain, 
the  city  itself  is  two  thousand  and  two  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  only  some 
feet  lower  than  the  highest  point  in  England. 
Here  we  can  understand  the  force  and  beauty 
of  the  words  of  Holy  Writ,  ‘As  the  mountains 
are  round  about  Jerusalem  so  the  Lord  is 
round  about  his  people  from  henceforth  even 
forever.’ 

As  we  looked  over  the  jagged  mountains 
of  the  wilderness  of  Judea,  our  thoughts 
went  back  to  the  long  ago  when  David  pur- 
sued by  the  revengeful  Saul,  often  sought  and 
found  a refuge  amid  their  rocky  fastnesses.*” 

We  sat  down  and  rested  beneath  a fig  tree, 
probably  not  far  from  the  spot  where  the 
Saviour  cursed  one,  upon  which  he  found  no 
fruit.  “ All  was  perfect  silence.  The  birds 


* “ Three  Weeks  in  Palestine,”  by  Miss  Hattie  Noyes. 


146 


HOMEWARD. 


were  singing  among  the  olives,  the  bee  hum- 
med from  flower  to  flower.  Opposite  was 
the  city,  from  which  no  sound  proceeded. 
Yet  I could  have  made  my  words  heard  by 
any  one  standing  on  the  temple  area.  There 
was  a holy  stillness  in  the  scene  quite  indes- 
cribable.”* We  wound  along  the  eastern  slope 
to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  crossing  an- 
other ridge  were  in  Bethany.  Although  but 
two  miles  from  Jerusalem,  neither  the  city  nor 
the  summit  of  the  Mount  of  Olives  are  in 
sight,  being  hidden  by  a spur  of  the  mountain. 
We  were  shown  the  grave  of  Lazarus,  the 
ruins  of  the  house  where  Mary  and  Martha 
lived,  and  the  house  of  Simon,  where  Jesus 
was  invited  to  a feast. 

Of  course  none  of  these  localities  can 
be  identified;  but  over  these  hills  and  perhaps 
along  these  very  paths,  our  Saviour  walked, 
and  that  gives  them  an  interest  that  is  linked 
to  no  other  spot. 

How  often  he  went  from  his  day’s  toil  in 
the  city,  to  seek  communion  and  rest  at  the 
home  of  his  friends,  Mary  and  Martha  and 
Lazarus. 

On  our  way  back  we  followed  a path  that 
skirts  the  southern  side  of  Olivet.  Leaving 
the  pool  of  Siloam  on  our  left,  we  soon  came 


* Memoir  of  Norman  Macleod,  D.  D.  page  341. 


-IXYIIiasr  JO  23VTIXA  5UIX 


THE  POOL  OF  SILOAM. 


151 


to  the  spot  where  we  suppose  the  Savior  was 
when  “lie  beheld  the  city,” — and  as  with  pro- 
phetic vision  he  contemplated  its  doom, — 
“ wept  over  it.” 


JERUSALEM,  FROM  THE  SOUTH  EAST. 

In  the  view,  on  the  opposite  page,  the  path 
to  the  fountain  is  seen  above  the  edge  of  the 
pool,  on  the  right.  You  may  descend  a flight 
of  steps  to  the  water,  which  flows  out  by  a 
small  orifice  into  the  square  pool,  and  thence 
into  the  valley  below.  There  is  a singular 
ebb  and  flow  in  the  stream,  which  may  have 


152 


HOMEWARD. 


given  rise  to  the  tradition  that  “ an  angel 
troubled  the  waters.” 

A few  steps  further  on,  we  passed  the 
garden  of  Getlisemane,  seen  in  the  foreground 
of  the  engraving  below. 


TI1E  GARDEN  OF  GET H SEMANE. 

Here  are  several  olive  trees,  very  gnarled 
and  time-worn.  It  is  said  that  the  olive  tree 
lives  as  long  as  a thousand  years,  and  these 
look  very  old.  By  the  roots  of  the  largest, 
was  a bit  of  honey-comb,  reminding  us  of  the 
emblem  of  plenty,  held  out  to  the  Israelites, 
“ a land  flowing  with  milk  and  honey.” 


XX. 

BETHLEHEM. 

The  third  day  of  our  stay  in  Jerusalem 
was  set  apart  for  a visit  to  Bethlehem.  This 
little  village  lies  in  a southerly  direction, 
about  six  miles  from  Jerusalem.  It  did  not 
look  more  than  three  miles  away,  when  seen 
from  the  Mount  of  Olives  the  day  before.  We 
thought  we  could  trust  our  own  eyes,  better 
than  those  persons  who  were  interested  in  our 
taking  horses,  so  resolved  to  walk;  the  ladies 
of  the  party  riding  on  donkeys,  the  children 
as  usual  in  panniers  on  a mule.  Wre  passed 
out  of  the  city  through  the  Jaffa  or  west 
gate.  Our  road  lay  over  gradual  slopes  and 
along  hill-sides,  past  vineyards  and  olive  or- 
chards hedged  or  walled  in.  We  met  with 
one  or  two  parties  of  Jews  travelling  much  as 
we  were,  the  men  on  foot  and  the  women  on 


HOMEWARD. 


154 


donkeys.  Tliey  all  stopped  at  Rachel’s  tomb, 
about  four  miles  from  the  city,  doubtless 
thinking  more  of  that  spot,  than  the  ore  to 
which  we  were  wending  our  way. 

There  is  scarcely  a sacred  place,  in  or  about 
Jerusalem,  so  well  identified  as  Rachel’s  tomb. 
•k  And  Rachel  died  and  was  buried  in  the  way 
to  Ephrath,  which  is  Bethlehem.  And  Jacob 
set  a pillar  upon  her  grave,  that  is  the  pillar 
of  Rachel’s  grave  unto  this  day.”  A suitable 
stracture  has  been  erected  over  the  spot,  and 
the  pillar,  though  enclosed,  can  be  seen 
through  the  bars. 

After  passing  Rachel’s  tomb,  an  Arab  came 
along  riding  on  a camel.  Tired  with  walking, 
1 thought  it  would  be  nice  to  try  this  mode 
of  travelling.  By  pantomime  and  an  exhibi- 
tion of  coin,  the  rider  was  made  to  under- 
stand that  1 would  like  to  exchange  places 
with  him. 

A word  from  his  master  and  the  animal 
tell  on  his  knees.  He  then  folded  his  hind 
legs  under  him  so  that  he  lay  flat  upon  the 
ground.  The  Arab  dismounted,  and  motion- 
ed me  to  occupy  his  seat.  The  camel  now 
raised  himself,  as  he  had  gone  down;  first 
Upon  his  hind  legs,  nearly  throwing  me  for- 
ward over  his  head,  then  upon  his  fore  legs 
with  a jerk,  that  made  me  fear  a fall  in 
the  other  direction.  As  he  began  to  stride 


Rachel’s  tomb. 


RIDING  A CAMEL . 


159 


along,  hi.s  gait  produced  a motion  some- 
thing like  a boat  pitching  over  the  waves. 
I was  afraid  of  being  made  sea-sick,  and  beg- 
ged my  Arab  friend  to  let  me  come  down 
from  the  fearful  height,  the  camel’s  back  seem- 
ed. He  made  the  animal  kneel,  and  I was 
glad  to  be  on  the  ground  again.  This  was 
my  first  and  last  attempt  to  ride  a camel. 
Walking  the  rest  of  the  way,  we  soon  reached 
Bethlehem. 

This  village,  which  we  could  but  regard 
with  the  deepest  interest,  covers  the  north- 
eastern slope  of  a spur  of  mountains  running 
north  and  south,  with  deep  valleys  on  the 
north,  south  and  east.  Below  the  town,  the 
hill-side  is  terraced,  and  figs,  olives  and  grapes 
cultivated.  Upon  these  hills,  the  son  of  Jesse 
led  his  father’s  sheep ; and  the  shepherds 
were  watching  their  flock’s  by  night,  when  a 
great  light  shown  around  them,  and  angel 
voices  sang;  “Unto  you  is  born  a Saviour  which 
is  Christ  the  Lord.”  In  the  valley  below 
are  coni  fields,  and  beyond  them  to  the  east 
the  barren  hills  known  as  the  wilderness  of 
Judea,  and  still  farther  away  the  almost 
perpendicular  mountains  of  Moab. 

Half  an  hour’s  ride  would  bring  us  to  those 
solitudes,  where  the  black  tents  of  the  Bed- 
ouins, dot  the  barren  limestone  hills.  Coin- 
ing from  the  city  to-day  we  saw  one  of  those 


160 


HOMEWARD. 


wild  men,  armed  with  a rifle,  flying  across 
the'- country  upon  “a  ship  of  the  desert/’ 

The  streets  of  Bethlehem  are  narrow  and 
dirty,  and  as  everywhere  else,  you  are  greeted 
with  crowds  of  beggars  exposing  their  leprosy, 
sores,  and  deformities  in  a disgusting  manner. 
We  were  also  besieged  by  the  inhabitants 
urging  upon  us  their  wares,  consisting  of 
beads,  crosses,  etc.,  carved  from  olive  wood 
or  mother-of-pearl.  The  little  girls  are  very 
beautiful,  and  press  upon  you  these  curios  in 
a way  you  can  hardly  resist. 

Bethlehem  has  a more  thriving  and  pros- 
perous appearance  than  most  of  the  towns  in 
Palestine.  Though  it  contains  several  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  there  is  not  a single  Jew 
among  them.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Miller,  a German 
Missionary,  has  labored  here  for  seventeen 
years.  He  has  day  and  boarding  schools, 
and  .a  church  of  thirty  members. 

The  principal  building  of  the  place  is  the 
church  erected  over  the  spot  where  our  Sav- 
iour is  said  to  have  been  born.  On  entering 
we  were  received  with  great  kindness  by  the 
monks,  who  gave  us  lemonade  and  other 
refreshments,  and  then  one  of  their  number 
conducted  us  through  the  church.  It  is  a 
magnificent  structure  with  double  rows  of 
Corinthian  columns  of  marble,  ten  on  a side, 
forty  in  all.  At  the  top  of  the  steps,  leading 


BETHLEHEM  AS  YOU  ENTER  FROM  JERUSALEM. 


THE  MANGER  AT  BETHLEHEM. 


163 


to  the  subterranean  portion,  we  each  received 
a lighted  candle,  and  descended  to  a spacious 
chapel,  elegantly  fitted  up  under  ground.  It 
is  lighted  by  beautiful  lamps,  the  gifts  of 
different  princes. 

Going  on  from  here  through  long  winding 
passages,  all  hallowed  by  some  tradition,  we 
at  length  reached  the  cave  where  Jesus  is 
said  to  have  been  born.  Upon  one  side, 
beneath  the  overhanging  rock,  sixteen  silver 
lamps,  are  kept  burning  continually,  over  a 
brass  plate  bearing  the  inscription,  “Here 
Jesus  was  born.”  On  the  other  side  of  the 
cave,  we  were  shown  a marble  manger,  in 
which,  they  say  be  was  laid.  Returning  to 
the  regions  of  day-light  we  remunerated  our 
guide,  gave  him  back  his  candles,  bought  a 
few  curios  and  started  for  Jerusalem.  David’s 
well  is  a few  steps  from  the  road,  and  we 
turned  aside  to  drink  of  the  waters  for  which 
he  so  longed 

We  reached  Jerusalem  about  noon,  hungry 
and  fatigued,  and  more  ready  to  believe  it  is 
six  miles  to  Bethlehem  than  when  we  started 
in  the  morning. 


XXI. 


MOUNT  CALVARY. 

Palestine  is  only  about  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles  long,  and  on  an  average  forty 
miles  wide,  yet  within  this  small  space  how 
many  interesting  localities ! Says  a recent 
writer  on  the  subject : — 

“From  end  to  end  are  ruins.  There  are 
ruins  which  the  Israelites  found  when  first 
they  dispossessed  the  Canaauites;  ruins  which 
date  from  their  own  two  monarchies;  ruins 
of  that  long  period  between  Nehemiah  and 
Herod ; ruins  Herodian,  ruins  Roman  but 
post  Herodian ; ruins  Christian ; ruins  Sara- 
cenic; ruins  Christian  of  a later  date;  and 
ruins  Mohammedan.  On  every  hill-top  is  a 
tel,  on  every  hill-side  is  a mound.” 

There  is  no  country  so  interesting  as  that 
where  the  Bible  was  written,  and  the  mo- 


CALVARY. 


167 


mentous  events  it  describes  enacted.  How 
many  of  tlie  most  remarkable  of  these  events, 
took  place  in  Jerusalem  and  its  vicinity. 
Bethany  and  Bethlehem,  Olivet  and  Getli- 
semane  have  been  mentioned.  Next  after 
Bethlehem,  Calvary  would  be  sought,  unless, 
as  is  usually  the  case,  the  traveller  visits  it 
first.  Boyish  fancy  had  pictured  a little  hill 
outside  the  north  gate  of  the  city ; no  build- 
ings of  any  sort  adorned  or  disfigured  it. 
How  much  more  satisfactory  to  visit  this 
sacred  spot,  if  you  could  go  there,  and  in 
silence  and  alone,  sit  down  on  the  green  sward 
and  be  left  to  your  own  meditations. 

Very  different  is  the  spot  pointed  out  to 
you  as  Calvary.  The  church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  lies  along  one  of  the  main  streets 
running  from  north  to  south.  Perhaps  an 
eighth  of  a mile  from  the  north  gate,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  street,  you  enter  a large 
court  filled  with  beggars,  the  lame,  halt  and 
blind.  Here  are  also  peddlers, — venders  of 
beads,  crucifixes,  crosses,  etc.  Upon  the  north 
of  this  court  is  the  entrance  to  the  church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre,  which  is  said  to  cover 
the  spot  where  our  Saviour  was  crucified 
and  buried.  This  immense  structure  is  under 
the  control  of  Roman  Catholics,  the  Greek 
and  Armenian  churches,  who  have  their 
several  chapels  or  worship  here  in  turn— as 


168 


HOMEWARD. 


they  can  best  agree — and  when  they  quarrel 
and  fight,  the  Turkish  soldiers  come  in  and 
slay  a few  more,  and  so  make  peace  among 
them.  The  first  thing,  that  attracts  the  eye 
as  you  enter,  is  a marble  slab  upon  which 
they  say  the  Saviour  was  lain,  when  taken 
from  the  cross  near  by. 

There  are  so  many  sacred  spots  and  things 
huddled  together  beneath  this  roof,  that  it  is 
impossible  to  believe  in  them  all,  and  this 
tends  to  cast  a shade  of  doubt  over  the 
whole.  The  locality  is  now  considered  as  well 
identified  by  good  authority.  But  as  you  go 
along  that  narrow,  dirty,  crowded  street, 
turn  into  that  court,  look  through  that  church 
with  its  marble  slab,  its  cross,  sepulchre,  etc., 
thronged  with  people  from  all  parts  of  the 
globe,  it  may  be  hard  to  realize  your  early 
notions  of  Mount  Calvary. 

By  the  kindness  of  the  American  consul, 
we  obtained  a permit  to  visit  the  Mosque  of 
Omar.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  this  is 
the  site  of  the  temple  of  Solomon,  the  place 
hallowed  by  the  labors  of  the  prophets  and 
apostles  and  of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ  himself. 
The  mosque  is  probably  built  upon  the  very 
spot  occupied  by  the  temple.  The  building 
is  octagonal.  The  dome  is  sixty  five  feet  in 
diameter  and  rises  to  the  height  of  ninety- 
seven  feet.  In  striking  contrast  with  this 


ANCIENT  RUINS. 


171 


highly  ornamented  and  beautiful  dome  is  the 
mass  of  naked  rock,  rising  beneath  it,  about 
six  feet  higher  than  the  pavement,  fifty-seven 
feet  long  and  forty-three  feet  wide.  Here  the 
voice  of  God  staid  the  uplifted  knife  of  Abra- 
ham, here  the  destroying  angel  dropped  his 
sword  near  the  threshing  floor  of  Araunah, 
here  David  built  his  altar  of  burnt  offering 
when  he  said  a Neither  will  I offer  burnt  offer- 
ing, to  the  Lord  my  God,  of  that  which  doth 
cost  me  nothing.”  Here  Solomon  built  the 
temple. 

There  are  interesting  ruins  in  the  south 
east  corner  of  the  temple  area.  Deep  under 
ground  are  arches  and  columns  by  which  part 
of  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat  was  made  to 
serve  as  part  of  the  temple  enclosure.  A 
system  of  columns  and  arches  were  raised  to 
a height  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  and 
then  covered  with  earth  and  made  to  appear 
like  solid  ground.  There  are  stones  fifty  feet 
long  built  into  these  walls.  They  are  sup- 
posed to  be  the  remains  of  some  of  Solomon’s 
work. 

For  several  years  past,  the  fragment  of  a 
bridge,  attached  to  this  wall,  has  attracted 
much  attention.  Dr.  Robinson  believed  it  to 
be  a part  of  the  bridge  described  by  Jose- 
phus, and  was  the  first  to  draw  adequate  at- 
tention to  it,  in  his  Researches.”  It  is  con- 


HOMEWARD. 


sidered  one  of  the  most  remarkable  remains 
of  antiquity,  proving  beyond  a doubt,  the 
identity  of  tlie  ancient  and  modern  wall  of 
the  temple  enclosure.  The  engraving  on  the 
opposite  page,  shows  this  ruin  as  seen  from 
the  north,  with  a part  of  Mount  Zion  on  the 
right.  This  bridge  once  connected  the  tem- 
ple and  Solomon’s  palace. 

We  visited,  or  saw  in  passing,  the  tombs  of 
the  kings,  the  tombs  of  the  prophets,  the 
pool  of  Siloam  and  Hezekiah’s  pool.  We  also 
descended  into  the  excavations — saw  the  an- 
cient walls  and  pillars  that  have  been  exhum- 
ed, with  the  evidence  that  former  building 
material  had  been  used  in  their  construction. 


The  last  morning  in  Jerusalem,  we  went 
again  upon  the  house-top  to  see  the  sun  rise 


REMAINS  OF  AN  ANCIENT  BRIDGE. 


tjie  jew’s  wailing  place 


1 


TEE  JEWS'  WAILING  PLACE . 


175 


once  more  over  Olivet.  The  engraving,  on 
a preceding  page,  gives  one  a very  good  idea 
of  an  eastern  house-top. 

We  paid  a visit  to  the  Jew's  wailing 
place,  north  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar  and  in- 
side the  city  wall.  It  is  part  of  the  wall  of 
the  temple  area,  about  fifty  feet  high  and  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  long.  Jews,  from  all 
quarters  and  of  all  ages  and  both  sexes,  come 
here  every  Friday,  to  weep  and  wail  over  a 
desolate  and  dishonored  sanctuary. 

Old  men  and  women,  young  men  and  maid- 
ens and  children  kiss  the  passive  stones,  press- 
ing their  faces  and  lips  into  the  joints  and 
crevices,  much  worn  or  enlarged  by  the  wast- 
ing fingers  of  time.  They  weep  and  wail, 
and  cry,  “ For  the  palace  that  lies  desolate  ; 
for  the  walls  that  are  overthrown ; for  our 
majesty  that  is  departed ; for  our  great  men 
who  lie  dead  ; for  the  precious  stones  that  are 
burned ; for  the  priests  who  have  stumbled  ; 
for  the  Kings  who  have  despised  Him,  we 
sit  in  solitude  and  mourn.  O God,  the  hea- 
then are  come  into  thine  inheritance,  thy 
temple  have  they  defiled.” 

“ Oh,  weep  for  those  that  wept  by  Babel’s  stream, 
Whose  shrines  are  desolate,  whose  laud  a dream. 
Weep  for  the  harp  of  Judah’s  broken  spell, 

Mourn —where  their  God  hath  dwelt,  the  codless 
dwell.” 


XXII. 


LEAVING  JERUSALEM. 

The  guides  have  good  reasons  for  intimidat- 
ing travellers  in  the  Holy  Land.  However, 
we  saw  no  danger  in  going  up  to  Jerusalem, 
nor  heard  of  any,  and  determined  to  return  to 
Jaffa  without  the  incumbrance  of  a guide. 

Engaging  the  horses  and  mule,  and  a don- 
key for  the  baggage,  with  ample  provisions 
for  the  way,  we  left  Jerusalem  Friday  morn- 
ing. But  of  course  there  was  much  delay 
in  gettitg  off.  These  Asiatics  never  keep 
their  engagements.  With  us,  they  try  to  palm 
off  inferior  animals  and  saddles. 

But  ‘‘Perseverance  conquers  all  things,"  and 
if  you  have  perseverance,  and  patience  you 
may  secure  some  of  your  rights,  eveu  from 
those  who  have  no  sense  of  justice.  At  last 
we  passed  out  of  the  Damascus  gate,  wound 


JERUSALEM  TO  JAFFA. 


177 


along  under  the  wall  to  the  northwest  corner, 
and  struck  into  the  road  for  Jaffa,  wishing 
to  make  all  the  progress  we  could  while  the 
sun  was  behind  us.  As  often  as  possible, 
while  the  Holy  city  is  in  sight,  we  look  back, 
and  when  about  to  leave  the  last  hill-top, 
from  which  it  can  be  seen,  take  one  more 
long  look,  seeking  to  impress  the  picture  on 
our  memory.  Then  we  move  on  over  barren 
hills,  and  across  fertile  valleys  where  every 
spot  has  its  sacred  associations,  and  we  feel 
loath  to  leave  such  hallowed  ground,  having 
but  little  hope  that  we  shall  ever  tread  it 
again. 

About  ten  miles  away,  ive  pass  Kirjath- 
jearim,  where  the  ark  rested  for  twenty  years. 
Not  far  off  is  the  village  of  Emmaus,  whith- 
er the  two  disciples  were  going  when  the 
Lord  appeared,  and  their  hearts  burned  as  he 
talked  with  them. 

On  our  left  we  had  the  scenes  of  Sampson’s 
exploits  and  shame.  As  we  decended  from 
the  hills  upon  the  plains  of  Sharon,  the  pros- 
pect was  very  fine.  The  mossy  grass,  variegat- 
ed with  gay  colored  wild  flowers,  carpeted 
the  landscape.  Upon  the  distant  hills  the 
effect  of  the  changing  light  and  shadows,  as 
the  clouds  drifted  over,  was  most  beautiful. 

The  road  was  made  for  the  accommodation 
of  carriages,  but  was  never  properly  graded, 


178 


HOMEWARD. 


and  is  nearly  impassable,  except  on  foot  or 
horseback. 

It  was  a fine  day,  and  we  enjoyed  the  ride ; 
walking  the  horses  up  and  down  the  hills, 
moving  a little  faster  across  the  plains, — 
resting  at  mid-day  in  a grove  to  take  a lunch, 
and  stopping  at  the  convent  at  night;  the 
journey  was  interesting,  and  not  very  weari- 
some, even  to  ladies  and  children. 


OXEN  TREADING  ODT  GRAIN. 


Just  before  reaching  Jaffa,  you  pass  some 
frame  houses  erected  by  a colony  of  relig- 
ionists who  went  from  New  England,  mostly 
from  Maine.  Whether  owing  to  the  lead- 
ership, the  principles  adopted,  or  the  com- 
petition of  these  Asiatics,  the  colony  failed, 
and  the  houses  have  passed  into  other  hands. 
The  material  for  these  buildings  was  brought 
in  vessels  from  Maine. 

Remaining  in  Jaffa  only  long  enough  to  get 


•vj.ivf 


ilL 


LEAVING  PALESTINE. 


181 


our  tickets  for  Alexandria,  we  went  directly 
on  board  the  steamer  which  was  anchored  a 
mile  or  two  away. 

It  was  a windy  day,  and  the  waves  were 
breaking  high  over  the  rocks  that  make 
landing  here  in  bad  weather  impossible.  It 
seemed  most  perilous,  but  those  more  ex- 
perienced, encouraged  us  to  make  the  effort. 
The  passage  between  the  rocks  was  so  nar- 
row that  the  oars  touched  on  each  side,  but 
watching  his  chance,  when  a huge  wave  came 
in,  rising  high  above  the  rocks,  the  helms- 
man shouted  to  the  rowers  to  put  forth  all 
their  energy,  and  the  boat,  borne  upon  the 
crest  of  the  wave,  shot  out  into  the  open  sea. 
For  a few  moments  we  seemed  in  imminent 
peril,  and  whether  we  were  or  not,  a grateful 
sensation  came  over  us  when  once  upon  the 
steamer’s  deck.  It  was  one  of  Lloyd’s  line, 
and  in  accommodations  and  cleanliness,  very 
inferior  to  the  French  steamer  in  which  we 
came  to  Jaffa. 

We  were  in  Alexandria  but  one  night, 
embarking  the  next  day  on  board  one  of  the 
Italian  line  of  steamers  for  Naples.  There 
were  English,  American,  and  Italian  passen- 
gers, with  whom  we  formed  pleasant  acquain- 
tances. 

We  had  fine  weather,  a smooth  sea,  good 
fare,  and  enjoyed  the  company  so  much,  that  the 


182 


HOMEWARD. 


seven  days  from  Alexandria,  to  Naples  passed 
very  pleasantly,  and  did  not  seem  as  long  as 
they  might  have  done,  under  less  favorable 
circumstances. 

Here  we  follow  the  route  of  St.  Paul  when 
he  was  sent  to  Italy.  A few  days  out  from 
Alexandria  the  air  grew  so  cool,  that  it  was 
evident  we  were  in  the  vicinity  of  snow.  The 
next  day  the  snow-clad  mountains  of  Crete  ap- 
peared in  view,  and  we  sailed  along  its  south- 
ern shore  all  day.  Says  Col.  Gordon : “ Crete 
is  indeed  the  garden  of  Greece,  and  were  it 
thoroughly  civilized  and  cultivated,  would 
produce  in  vast  abundance  corn,  wine,  oil, 
silk,  wool,  honey,  and  wax.  . . . The  land  is 
stocked  with  game,  the  sea  with  fine  fish ; 
fruit  is  plentiful  and  of  a delicious  flavor.  Its 
valleys  are  adorned  with  a variety  of  flowers 
and  aromatic  shrubs,  and  with  groves  of 
myrtle,  orange,  lemon,  pomegranate,  and  al- 
mond trees,  as  well  as  interminable  forests 
of  olives ;.  . . .on  the  Northern  side  are  several 
excellent  and  capacious  harbors.”  The  first 
landing  we  made  was  in  Sicily,  the  largest 
and  most  fruitful  of  all  the  Mediterranean 
islands.  We  reached  Messina  the  twenty 
second  of  April.  This  is  one  of  the  finest 
harbors  in  Europe.  The  city  extends  along 
the  water’s  edge  about  two  miles,  in  the  form 
of  a crescent.  It  presents  a fine  appearance 


8CYLLA  AND  CHAltYBDIS.' 


183 


as  seen  from  the  steamer’s  deck.  The  town 
and  mountains  in  the  back  ground,  rise  like  an 
amphitheatre.  The  white  stone  houses  and 
paved  streets  contrast  finely  with  the  dark,  lux- 
uriant, cone-shaped  hills  in  the  rear.  The 
streets  are  at  right  angles,  paved  with  square 
blocks  of  lava,  and  as  smooth  as  the  house  floor. 

Its  chief  exports  are  oranges,  lemons,  wines, 
olives,  oil,  and  silk.  The  harbor  is  well 
defended  by  a citadel  and  two  strong  forts, 
on  the  liill-side,  above  the  town. 

It  was  a pleasant  day  when  we  steamed 
out  of  the  harbor,  and  through  the  straits 
of  Messina,  between  Scylla  and  Charybdis 
described  in  the  Odyssey.  The  straits  are 
only  two  miles  wide;  the  shores  with  con- 
stantly varying  scene,  distinctly  in  sight. 
Towards  evening  of  the  same  day  we  saw 
Stromboli.  The  mountain  rises  abruptly  from 
the  sea,  is  very  steep  and  composed  entirely 
of  lava.  The  smoke  rising  from  the  top 
spread  out,  forming  an  umbrella-shaped  cloud 
above  it.  We  passed  very  near  its  base. 
Being  in  the  great  highway  of  commerce,  it 
would  be  dangerous  but  that  it  is,  as  Carlton 
says,  “ A natural  light-house.”  We  watched 
it  a long  time  after  dark,  and  every  few 
minutes  a faint  flash  of  light  could  be  seen. 


XXIII 


IN  NAPLES. 

About  noon,  tlie  next  day  after  passing 
Stromboli,  we  reached  Naples.  As  we  entered 
the  bay,  Mount  Vesuvius  was  nearly  before 
us.  The  smoke  as  if  poured  forth  from  a 
chimney,  floated  away  on  the  wind,  and  lay 


A VIEW  NEAR  NAPLES. 


on  the  horizon  like  a cloud.  In  a few  mo- 
ments we  entered  the  harbor.  The  city  forms 
a semicircle  around  the  bay  and  extends  back 
over  the  hill. 


LANDING  AT  NAPLES. 


185 


Leaving  the  most  of  our  baggage  to  be 
forwarded  to  Basle,  what  we  landed  with,  was 
readily  passed  by  the  custom  house  officers. 
Having  secured  rooms  at  the  Globe  Hotel, 
we  started  out  sight-seeing.  Our  guide  call- 
ed a carriage,  and  took  us  through  the  grotto 
to  Puteoli,  where  St.  Paul  landed  on  his  way 
to  Home.  Here  is  one  end  of  the  road,  and 
in  Rome  they  show  the  other, — the  very  road 
or  narrow  paved  path,  over  which  they 
declare  that  Paul  walked,  and  it  may  be  true. 
Our  way  lay  through  a tunnel  about  half  a 
mile  in  length,  cut  through  the  mountain, 
forming  an  outlet  for  the  travel  going  west  of 
Naples.  It  is  broad  enough  for  carriages  to 
pass  and  leave  room  for  a side- walk, — or  rather 
foot  passengers,  as  there  is  no  side-walk  or 
protection  for  those  who  walk. 

The  rock  through  which  it  is  cut,  is  soft 
tufa,  and  the  work  may  have  been  accom- 
plished with  much  less  difficulty  than  one 
would  naturally  think.  The  interior  is  dim- 
ly lighted,  and  through  it  is  constantly  poured 
a stream  of  donkeys,  foot  passengers,  and  car- 
riages. The  little  round  light  at  the  farther 
end,  constantly  expanding  as  you  approach,  is 
a curious  and  interesting  sight. 

On  our  return,  we  ascended  a-  hill  near 
the  end  of  the  tunnel  to  visit  Virgil’s  grave. 
Leaving  the  thoroughfare,  crowded  with  pas- 


186 


HOMEWARD. 


sengers  and  vehicles,  we  got  the  key  and  a 
guide  from  a blacksmith’s  shop,  and  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  a steep  hill.  The  nar- 
row path  winds  among  fruit  trees,  patches  of 
mustard,  and  peas,  just  now  in  bloom  and 
filling  the  air  with  fragrance. 

The  hill  is  covered  with  vines  and  fruit 
trees,  and  commands  one  of  the  finest  views 
in  this  lovely  region.  Before  us  is  the  city 
and  bay  of  Naples,  with  its  shipping  and 
islands;  in  the  distance  Vesuvius,  the  smoke 
curling  up  and  floating  away.  At  the  foot 
of  Vesuvius  are  the  ruins  of  Herculaneum 
buried  sixty,  and  in  some  places,  ninety  feet 
below  the  surface,  now  covered  with  a thriv- 
ing town.  Sorrento  lies  nestled  among  the 
hills,  upon  the  east  side  of  the  bay.  Every 
spot  has  its  memories  of  events  and  men  from 
Aeneas  down.  The  beauty  of  the  place  has 
always  made  it  a great  resort  for  pleasure- 
seekers.  Here  Augustus  gave  his  unrivaled 
feasts,  and  Nero  planned  the  murder  of  his 
mother.  Here  Brutus  retired  upon  a little 
island  after  killing  Caesar.  In  the  mouth  of 
the  harbor  is  Capri,  where  Tiberius  Caesar 
lived  when  his  life  was  no  longer  safe  in 
Rome.  Here  lie  indulged  in  all  the  excesses 
of  voluptuousness  and  sensuality  of  which 
he  was  capable.  Here  are  now  the  remains 
of  his  baths,  temples  and  palaces,  and,  yes- 


VIRGIL'S  GRAVE. 


187 


terday  coming  into  the  harbor,  we  passed  the 
precipice,  seven  hundred  feet  high,  from 
which  the  victims  of  his  passions  were  hurled 
into  the  sea. 

Inspired  by  all  this  beauty,  Cicero  and 
Virgil  wrote.  Here  Paul  landed  and  walked 
over  the  same  pavement  we  tread  to-day, 
and  here,  but  a few  yards  from  where  we 
stand,  are  buried  the  mortal  remains  of  that 
prince  of  Latin  poets,  Virgil.  His  grave  is  a 
little  over  the  brow  of  the  hill,  in  a quiet 
nook,  as  beautiful  a spot  as  could  be  selected 
for  a poet’s  last  resting  place. 

As  we  stood  by  his  grave  it  brought  up 
pleasant  memories  of  school-boy  days,  when 
his  matchless  poems  were  our  text  books. 

The  spot  where  Virgil  rests  is  marked  by  a 
columbarium  over  a white  slab.  The  structure 
is  of  masonry,  “ shattered  by  time  and  over- 
grown with  myrtle.”  Upon  the  slab  is  the 
well  known  inscription : — 

“ Mantua  me  genuit : Calabri  rapuere : tenet  nunc 
Parthenope : Cecini  pascua,  rura,  duces.” 

Retracing  our  steps  down  the  hill  we  rode 
back  to  town,  passing  the  public  park,  or 
Villa  Beale  which  presented  a gay  and  lively 
appearance.  It  opens  upon  the  bay  with  the 
town  rising  in  the  rear.  It  is  2000  yards 
in  length,  and  the  walks  are  adorned  with 
parterres,  fountains,  statuary  and  orange  trees. 


186 


homeward. 


A band  was  playing,  and  the  wealth  and 
fashion  of  the  city  were  gathered  there,  sit- 
ting in  their  elegant  carriages  or  sauntering 
along  the  gravelled  walks  among  the  shrub- 
bery and  flowers.  The  horses  and  carriages 
seemed  the  finest  we  had  ever  seen. 


XXIV. 

VESUVIUS  AND  THE  BURIED  CITIES. 

We  completed  our  preparations  over  night, 
in  order  to  start  for  Vesuvius  early  in  the 
morning.  One  may  go  on  the  railroad  to  a 
point  near  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and 
thence  ride  donkeys,  or  go  on  foot.  We 
preferred  to  take  a carriage  to  the  Hermit- 
age, and  accompanied  by  our  own  guide  walk 
from  there.  Portici  is  four  miles  from  Naples, 
and  the  drive  through  the  city  and  along  the 
road  that  winds  round  the  bay  is  very  pleas- 
ant. Houses  line  the  road  on  both  sides, 
forming  one  continuous  street.  Resina  and 
Portici  are  two  villages  covering  the  site  of 
ancient  Herculaneum,  which  lies  imbedded  in 
the  solid,  rock-like  lava  from  sixty  to  one 
hundred  feet  below  the  present  streets.  After 
it  had  been  buried,  nearly  1600  years,  it  was 


A CITY  UNDER  GROUND. 


189 


accidentally  discovered  by  a man  who,  when 
sinking  a well,  fell  into  an  open  space  which 
proved  to  be  the  theatre.  The  excavations 
are  all  under  ground ; but  we  descended  by  a 
winding  stair-case,  and  walked  through  the 
streets  and  houses  of  this  ancient  city.  A 
guide,  torch  in  hand,  pointed  out  the  objects 
of  interest,  the  seats  and  stage  of  a large 
theatre,  etc.  In  one  of  the  walls,  we  saw 
the  impression  made  by  a skeleton  whether  a 
prisoner  in  chains,  or  how  it  happened,  we 
could  not  learn,  but  he  had  apparently  died 
and  been  buried  in  the  solid  rock  in  a stand- 
ing posture  ! Captives  were  found  in  chains 
in  the  prison,  and  this  may  have  been  one 
of  them. 

Passing  through  the  village  of  Resina, 
which  almost  joins  Portici,  we  were  beset 
with  a crowd  of  men  and  boys,  offering  their 
services  as  guides,  or  seeking  to  sell  stout 
canes  to  assist  us  in  climbing  the  mountain. 
But  the  carriage  passed  on,  and  venders  of 
canes  and  fruit,  beggars  and  guides,  were 
left  far  behind.  After  leaving  the  village, 
the  road  winds  through  cultivated  fields  up 
the  mountain.  The  old  lava  has  become  dis- 
integrated and  forms  a rich  soil,  where  we 
saw  grape-vines  and  mulberry  trees  growing 
in  great  luxuriance.  Hedges  of  hawthorn 
and  patches  of  beans  in  full  bloom,  filled 


190 


HOMEWARD. 


the  air  with  delicate  fragrance.  From  the 
time  we  left  the  noise  and  hustle  of  the  vil- 
lage, we  distinctly  heard  the  explosions  of 
Vesuvius,  booming  like  a gun,  and  looking 
up,  the  lava  could  be  seen  shooting  into  the  air 
two  hundred  feet  above  its  top.  The  guide 
assured  us  that  it  was  unusually  active  and 
that  few  travellers  saw7  such  a sight. 

The  road  winds  in  a zigzag  course  up  the 
hill,  and  every  turn  reveals  enchanting  viewrs, 
u in  which  vineyard  and  tow7er,  city  and  land, 
w7ater  and  island,  ship  and  distant  sea  ” com- 
mingle. 

In  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour  we 
reached  the  Hermitage.  Here  are  two  build- 
ings; one  is  a place  of  entertainment,  the  other 
the  Royal  Observatory,  a good,  substantial 
structure  of  the  light  colored  stucco,  so  com- 
mon here.  These  buildings  stand  upon  a 
ridge  or  spur  of  the  mountain,  and  the 
streams  of  lava  have  flowed  down  on  both 
sides  within  a few  years,  destroying  every 
trace  of  vegetation,  though  the  ridge  itself  is 
covered  with  grass  and  shrubs.  Prof.  Par- 
mieri  has  charge  of  the  observatory,  and 
remains  at  his  post  recording  observations 
during  the  most  violent  eruptions.  Here  we 
left  the  carriage,  and  for  the  time,  reject- 
ing the  kind  offers  of  numerous  lazy  Italians 
who  proffered  their  services  as  guides,  at  ex- 


ASCENDING  VESUVIUS. 


191 


orbitant  rates,  we  took  the  narrow  path  lead- 
ing across  fields  of  lava  to  the  foot  of  the  cone. 
"V\  ith  the  exception  of  the  ridge  alluded  to, 
fields  of  gray  and  blackened  lava  greet  the 
eye  in  every  direction  covering  all  the  ground, 
and  leaving  not  a vestige  of  vegetation.  One 
is  puzzled  to  account  for  the  windings,  twist- 
ings and  convolutions,  and  especially  for  the 
ridges,  where  it  has  been  piled  up  in  places 
several  feet  high.  But,  looking  carefully, 
you  can  see  howr  it  moved  slowly  along  con- 
stantly cooling  in  front  and  on  the  surface; 
while  that  behind  and  beneath  still  hot, 
pressed  the  cooling  mass  on  and  sometimes 
piled  it  up  in  ridges  and  hillocks,  or  it  rolled 
over  and  over  upon  itself,  or  ,was  dammed 
up,  only  to  gather  new  force  and  move  on, 
carrying  devastation  into  the  valley  belowo 
From  the  Hermitage  to  the  base  of  the 
cone,  about  a mile,  you  walk  over  “loose 
and  lumpy  masses  of  black  slag  which  have 
been  thrown  from  the  volcano  like  bombs 
from  a mortar.”  At  the  foot  of  the  cone, 
you  engage  a guide,  to  assist  you  in  the 
rough  and  rugged  ascent.  You  go  up  a 
zigzag  path  at  an  inclination  of  thirty  or 
forty  degrees,  holding  fast  to  a rope  or  strap 
attached  to  your  guide’s  belt.  The  rough 
pieces  of  lava,  of  all  sizes  ancl  shapes,  roll  and 
slip  beneath  your  feet,  and  sometimes  you 


192 


SOME  WARD. 


feel  in  danger  of  going  topsy-turvy  to  the 
bottom. 

We  spent  an  hour  and  a half  in  climbing, 
slipping  back  and  occasionally  sitting  upon  a 
block  of  lava,  looking  up  at  the  mountain- 
top,  smoking,  and  every  few  minutes  dis- 
charging the  red  hot  lava  in  the  air  with  a 
tremendous  explosion ; or  contrasting  the 
desolation  immediately  around,  with  the  ver- 
dure and  beauty  of  the  hills  and  vales  below. 

At  length  we  reached  the  summit,  with  the 
full  conviction  that  the  ascent  of  Vesuvius  is 
a daring  adventure. 

But  attaining  what  was  imagined  to  be 
the  top  of  the  mountain,  we  find  that  the 
crater,  which  is  composed  of  ashes  and  cinders, 
rises  still  higher,  one  hundred  or  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet. 

We  were  now  in  such  close  proximity  that 
the  sight  was  grand  and  terrific  beyond 
description.  The  explosions  came  with  great- 
er frequency  and  with  terrible  violence,  send- 
ing large  quantities  of  molten  lava  some  two 
hundred  feet  into  the  air.  It  turned  black 
before  commencing  its  descent,  and  was  borne 
by  the  wind  in  our  direction,  falling  not  far 
from  where  we  stood.  Sometimes  a piece  as 
large  as  one’s  head  would  fall  directly  where 
we  were  standing.  But  it  was  easy  to  see 
where  it  would  strike,  and  to  step  aside ; still 


AT  THE  TOP  OF  THE  CRATER, 


193 


Mrs.  Farnham  was  terrified,  the  children  cried, 
and  one  started  to  run  down  the  mountain. 
It  required  a little  tact  to  re-marshal  our 
forces  and  direct  their  faces  to  the  goal — the 
top  of  the  crater. 

A friend  who  had  visited  Vesuvius,  urged 
us  by  all  means  to  go  to  the  top.  He  said 
the  guides  wonld  try  to  intimidate  us,  in 
order  to  save  themselves  the  trouble  of  climb- 
ing the  crater,  or  to  get  more  money;  but 
if  we  stopped  at  the  base  we  should  miss 
the  best  part. 

Remembering  our  friend’s  advice,  and  hav- 
ing no  idea  that  what  we  saw  was  an  unusual 
sight,  or  that  we  were  upon  the  eve  of  a fear- 
ful eruption,  we  could  not  give  up  the  idea  of 
going  to  the  top. 

We  knew  nothing  of  our  danger  and  little 
thought  that  before  we  should  leave  the 
mountain,  the  place  where  we  then  stood 
would  be  covered  with  red  hot  lava,  and  that 
within  a few  hours  the  side  of  the  mountain 
would  burst  asunder,  at  that  very  spot. 

It  was  evident  the  lava  all  came  from  the 
western  side  of  the  crater  and  that  the 
wind  was  from  the  east,  bringing  it  towards 
us, — that,  if  we  went  round  to  the  southern 
or  eastern  side  we  might,  without  exposure, 
ascend  from  the  opposite  side  and  stand  upon 
the  topmost  edge.  The  guides  pronounced 


194 


HOMEWARD. 


it  impossible,  and  other  travellers,  standing 
by,  said  it  was  too  hazardous.  “ You  can  ex- 
pose your  own  life,”  said  they,  “but  you  have 
no  right  to  expose  the  lives  of  your  wife  and 
children.”  It  began  to  look  serious.  But  we 
had  come  to  Naples  expressly  to  see  Vesuvius, 
and  from  Naples  to  the  top  of  the  mountain 
to  accomplish  our  purpose,  and  were  not  to 
be  diverted  by  trifles,  when  so  near  the  at- 
tainment of  our  object. 

Although  the  guides  refused  to  accompany 
us,  the  ascent  was  made  without  much  diffi- 
culty, and  we  stood  upon  the  topmost  edge. 
We  found  the  old  crater  resembled  an  im- 
mense bowl  perhaps  two  or  three  hundred 
yards  in  diameter.  From  our  feet  outward  it 
was  composed  of  ashes  descending  at  an  angle 
of  about  forty  degrees.  On  the  inside  it  was 
nearly  perpendicular,  covered  with  a sulphur- 
ous powder,  smoking  slightly  and  burning 
in  places  around  the  edges;  on  the  north- 
east this  rim  had  been  torn  away,  and,  walk- 
ing round  to  that  part,  we  descended  to  the 
centre  of  the  old  crater  which  was  now 
extinct.  Looking  down  still  farther  than  it 
was  possible  for  us  to  descend,  the  mouth 
seemed  choked  up  and  emitted  no  smoke. 

But  upon  the  western  edge  of  this  rim 
there  were  five  new  craters,  one  of  which 
was  very  active.  We  watched  its  boiling, 


THE  ERUPTION. 


195 


seething  surface.  Sometimes  it  overflowed, 
and  a large  piece  would  roll  down  into  the 
old  crater,  gathering  up  the  cinders  as  it 
went.  Then  after  a few  minutes  intermission, 
there  was  an  explosion,  greatly  agitating  the 
melted  matter,  and  throwing  much  of  it  into 
the  air,  a part  always  falling  back  into  the 
mouth  of  the  crater,  to  be  melted  and  boiled 
and  shot  out  again. 

We  are  at  an  altitude  of  upwards  of  4000 
feet,  and  enjoying  a view  of  unsurpassed 
loveliness.  In  this  regon  is  the  scenery  of 
Virgil’s  yEuead;  the  River  Styx  and  Lake 
A vermis,  the  Sibyl’s  Caves  and  Elysian  Fields. 
Pompeii  though  six  miles  distant,  seems  close 
to  the  base. 

“The  descent  is  easy.”  You  go  down  with 
great  speed  over  another  path  from  that  which 
you  ascended  with  so  much  difficulty.  You 
sink  into  the  ashes  up  to  your  knees,  and  slid- 
ing, skipping,  hopping,  and  jumping,  in  five  or 
ten  minutes  reach  the  foot  of  the  cone,  which 
you  had  been  more  than  an  hour  in  climbing. 

On  looking  back,  we  were  surprised  to  see 
there  had  been  an  eruption,  and  the  melted 
lava  was  flowing  down  the  mountain  over  the 
path  we  had  gone  up  a few  hours  before. 
As  we  rode  towards  Naples,  the  lava  was 
seen  creeping  down  the  mountain  side.  The 
eruption  had  been  seen  at  Naples,  and  the 


196  HOMEWARD. 

road  was  full  of  parties  on  foot  and  in  car- 
riages, going  irom  tlie  citv  m tlmt  direction. 


VESUVIUS  BY  X1GUT. 

In  the  evening  the  sight  was  very  grand. 
The  top  of  the  mountain  seemed  all  aldaze, 
while  the  melted  lava  puured  forth  through 


THE  DESTRUCTION  OF  POMPEII. 


197 


tour  craters,  running  down  the  mountain  like 
tour  streams  of  fire.  During  the  next  day,  a 
new  crater  broke  out  perhaps  a hundred  feet 
lower  down  than  the  four  or  five  described. 
The  melted  matter  thus  finding  vent,  came 
rushing  down  the  mountain  with  great  vio- 
lence, surrounding  and  enveloping  many  of 
the  spectators.  Over  how  many,  these  red 
hot  streams  flowed,  it  is  impossible  to  say. 
Some  say,  at  least  one  hundred  lost  their  lives, 
while  thousands  in  the  villages  below  were 
forced  to  fly  from  their  homes  with  scarcely 
a moment’s  warning. 

The  eruption  which  destroyed  Pompeii  oc- 
eured  a.  n.  70.  Six  years  earlier,  the  inhabi- 
tants were  forewarned  by  a most  destruc- 
tive earthquake;  (but  they  heeded  it  not, 
and  continued  to  live  in  the  grossest  im- 
morality as  is  plainly  shown  by  the  relies  re- 
cently discovered.)  At  length  the  black 
smoke  belched  from  the  crater,  attended  by 
portentous  rumbling  noises;  then  came  the 
showers  of  ashes,  cinders  and  stones.  In  two 
short  hours  all  was  over.  Herculaneum,  Sta- 
bi;e  and  Pompeii  were  no  more. 

“The  younger  Pliny,  who  witnessed  it,  states 
that  about  one  o’clock  in  the  day,  he  saw  a 
strange  cloud  overhanging  t he  plain  of  Naples, 
like  a huge  pine-tree  shooting  up  to  a great 
height  and  stretching  out  its  branches.  This 


198 


HOMEWARD. 


singular  cloud,  which  seemed  to  be  composed 
of  earth  and  cinders,  excited  his  curiosity, 
and  he  embarked  in  a boat  to  cross  the  bay 
and  examine  into  it.  As  lie  approached  the 
coast,  the  red-hot  cinders  and  stones  fell  into 
the  boat,  and  lie  was  obliged  to  retreat.  lie 
proceeded  to  Stabiae  to  spend  the  night  with 
a friend,  but  before  morning  they  were  driven 
to  the  fields  by  the  shaking  of  the  house. 

The  morning  came,  but  it  brought  no  relief. 
One  shock  of  earthquake  succeeded  another, 
as  if  the  foundations  of  the  world  were  giving 
way.  The  sea  receded  from  the  shore.  The 
mountain  poured  forth  a mass  of  flame  and 
burning  rock,  and  the  cloud  of  cinders  spread 
over  the  bay  and  over  the  land.  They  at- 
tempted again  to  escape  to  a safer  distance, 
and  joined  the  crowd  that  was  surging  on- 
ward. Pliny’s  father  had  already  perished, 
lie  led  his  mother  by  the  hand,  and  fearing 
she  would  be  pressed  to  death,  proposed  to 
step  aside  and  suffer  the  crowd  to  pass  by. 
He  says:  wAVe  had  scarcely  stepped  out  of  the 
path  when  darkness  overspread  us — not  like 
that  of  a cloudy  night,  or  when  there  is  no 
moon,  but  of  a room  when  it  is  shut  up  and 
all  the  lights  are  extinguished.  Nothing  was 
to  be  heard  but  the  shrieks  of  women,  the 
screams  of  children,  and  the  cries  of  men ; 
some  calling  for  their  children,  others  for 


PLINY’S  ESCAPE. 


199 


their  parents,  others  for  their  husbands,  and 
only  distinguishing  each  other  by  their  voices; 
one  lamenting  his  own  fate,  another  that  of 


A STREET  IN1'  POMPEII. 


his  tamily ; some  wishing  to  die  from  the 
very  fear  of  dying;  some  lifting  their  hands 
to  the  gods;  but  the  greater  part  imagining 
that  the  last  and  eternal  night  was  come, 


HOME  W Alt  D. 


200 


which  was  to  destroy  tlie  gods  and  the  world 
together.’  ” 

The  ashes  which  overwhelmed  Pompeii 
have  now  l>een  removed,  revealing  much  of 
the  city  as  it  was  the  day  it  was  destroyed. 
Here  you  may  walk  through  the  streets,  visit 
the  Theatre,  Forum,  Court  of  Justice,  Am- 
phitheatre, Public  Baths,  etc.  etc.  The  shops 
of  the  baker,  money  changer,  and  other  mer- 
chants, are  recognized  by  the  inscriptions  cut 
in  stone.  Many  of  the  walls  of  the  rooms 
are  covered  with  frescoes,  in  excellent  pre- 
servation. 

Specimens  of  sculpture  and  painting,  coin, 
jewelry,  etc.,  are  collected  in  the  museum  in 
Naples.  Among  other  curios,  are  pills  from 
the  apothecary  shop,  and  loaves  of  bread,  left 
in  the  oven  nearly  eighteen  hundred  years  ago. 

Florelli,  appointed  by  Victor  Emanuel,  to 
take  charge  of  the  excavations,  discovered  a 
process  by  which  lie  took  a cast  of  many  of 
the  victims.  He  tound  the  bodies  had  decay- 
ed, leaving  in  the  hardened  ashes  a mould,  the 
exact  shape  and  size  of  the  person.  Into 
thi<  cavity  he  poured  plaster  of  Paris  and  got 
a perfect  cast  of  the  body,  giving  the  linea- 
ments and  expression  of  the  face  at  the  mo- 
ment of  death.  By  this  pri  cess,  after  eigh- 
teen centuries,  the  forms  of  the  victims  are 
reproduced.  Florelli  has  thirty  or  forty  of 


these  tell-tale  easts.  In  nearly  every  case 
there  is  an  expression  of  suffering. 


l i: r cam's  or  comckians. 


One  young  girl,  however,  in  the  fiudi  of 
health,  her  form  modeled  free  from  rigidness, 
appears  to  have  died  without  a struggle. 
One  of  her  hands  is  half  open,  as  if  holding 
her  vail.  There  are  the  sleeves  to  her  wrists, 
the  needle  work  on  her  sandals,  the  rents  in 
her  clothing,  the  bared  shoulder  and  half  na- 
ked bosom,  as  she  lav  in  her  last  swoon.  She 
had  covered  her  mouth  with  her  tunic,  to 
keep  out  the  choking  ashes,  and  she  fell  in 
running — her  face  to  the  ground.  Xo  strength 
was  left  to  rise.  In  her  effort  for  recovery 


•202 


HOMEWARD. 


she  put  out  her  arm,  her  head  dropped  upon 
it,  and  she  died. 

There  is  in  Naples  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able cemeteries  in  the  world.  It  is  situated 
on  a hill  outside  of  the  city,  and  enclosed  by 
a high  wall  on  three  sides,  with  a loner  build- 
mg  on  the  fourth.  There  are  three  hundred 
and  sixty-five  vaults,  one  for  each  day  in 
the  year.  Early  each  morning,  one  of  these 
vaults  is  opened,  and  the  dead  of  the  previous 
day  are  thrown  in.  A little  lime  is  cast  upon 
the  uncoffined  bodies,  and  the  stone  slab, 
that  covers  the  mouth,  is  adjusted  and  sealed 
up  till  the  same  day  the  following  year. 
During  the  day  the  bodies  are  brought,  with- 
out coffin,  and  deposited  in  boxes  in  the 
building  on  one  side  of  the  enclosure.  Of 
course  only  the  very  poor  find  such  sepulture. 

XXV. 


NAPLES  TO  ROME. 

Part  of  our  last  day  at  Naples  was  spent 
in  the  museum.  Its  chief  attractions  are  col- 
lections from  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii. 

In  leaving  this  city,  we  ride  for  the  first 
time  over  a European,  railway.  The  sta- 
tion in  Naples  is  a large  and  beautiful  build- 
ing. The  waiting  room  is  frescoed,  and  paved 


EUROPEAN  RAILWAYS. 


203 


with  blooks  of  black  and  white  marble,  and 
handsomely  furnished.  Though  travellers  are 
likely  to  miss  many  conveniences  found  in 
American  cars,  yet,  the  railway  system  is 
very  perfect  throughout  Europe.  There  are 
separate  waiting  rooms  for  first,  second,  and 
third  class  passengers.  The  doors  between 
these  rooms  and  the  cars,  are  locked  till  just 
before  the  train  starts,  when  the  passengers, 
showing  their  tickets,  are  directed  to  the  part 
of  the  train  they  are  to  occupy.  The  guard 
then  takes  them  in  charge.  The  car  is  div  id- 
ed by  partitions  across  it,  into  small  rooms 
with  a door  on  each  side.  There  are  two 
seats  across  the  car  on  each  side  of  this 
little  room,  with  windows  at  each  end.  The 
room  accommodates  eight  or  ten  persons, 
being  upholstered,  according  to  the  clap$!  of 
the  car.  Of  course  half  of  the  passengers 
ride  backwards. 

This  arrangement,  however,  facilitates  enter- 
ing and  leaving  the  car,  and  is  quite  economi- 
cal of  space.  Arrived  at  the  station,  you  sur- 
render your  ticket  as  you  pass  to  the  waiting 
room  or  street.  The  cars  contain  no  stoves, 
but  in  cold  weather,  cans  of  hot  water  are 
placed  near  the  traveller’s  feet.  It  is  one 
hundred  and  forty  miles  from  Naples  to 
Rome.  The  road  gives  you  a fair  specimen 
of  the  scenery  of  Southern  Italy.  There  are 


204 


HOME  WARD. 


no  isolated  farm  houses,  but  the  inhabitants 
are  clustered  together  in  little  villages  so 
compact,  as  to  remind  you  of  slices  of  a dense 
city,  cut  off  and  stuck  upon  the  hill-sides  at 
convenient  distances.  They  are  thus  huddled 
together,  for  mutual  protection  against  rob- 
beis. 

It  was  half  past  eight  in  the  evening 
when  we  reached  Rome.  Riding  through  the 
streets  to  the  Hotel  de  Globe,  it  was  hard  to 
realize  we  were  indeed  in  the  Rome  of  which 
we  had  heard  and  read  so  much,  and  so  long- 
ed to  see;  and  it  was  never  much  better 
realized  during  the  whole  week  of  our  stay. 
The  Seven  hills  are  but  slight  elevations,  and 
are  hard  to  make  out,  even  from  the  top  of 
the  capitol,  and  with  the  aid  of  a guide 
book. 

You  look  in  vain  for  the  grandeur  of  broad 
avenues  and  stately  palaces.  Rome  is  a city 
of  narrow,  filthy  streets.  There  are  but  two 
streets  in  the  whole  city  that  have  side-walks, 
and  anywhere  else,  these  would  be  considered 
narrow  and  mean  looking.  Any  one  un- 
dertaking to  walk  in  the  streets,  does  so  at 
the  risk  of  falling  on  the  rough  pavement  of 
volcanic  rock,  slippery  with  filth,  or  being 
run  over  by  carts  and  carriages.  The  shops 
are  dark,  unattractive  places,  with  no  light 
except  what  enters  at  the  doors. 


ST.  PETER'S. 


205 


The  palaces  seen  from  the  outside,  look 
more  like  prisons  than  anything  else. 

We  spent  a week  riding  every  day  from 
one  point  to  another;  lingering  long  in  St. 
Peter’s,  and  visiting  it  several  times,  climb- 
ing to  the  ball  under  the  cross  438  feet 
from  the  pavement. 

St.  Peter’s  is  the  largest  church  in  Rome, 
perhaps  in  the  world.  It  is  estimated  that 
fifty  thousand  people  can  be  gathered  within 
its  walls,  that  is  standing,  for  it  has  no  seats. 

It  is  incomparably  the  most  magnificent 
building  in  the  world. 

The  foundations  of  this  majestic  pile  were 
laid  in  1450,  and  the  erection  was  in  progress 
during  three  centuries  and  a half,  extending 
through  the  reign  of  no  less  than  forty  three 
popes. 

So  enormous  was  the  expense,  that  Julius 
II.  and  Leo  X.  resorted  to  the  public  sale  of 
indulgences  to  raise  the  funds;  and  it  is  well 
known  that  this  abomination,  roused  the  in- 
dignation of  Martin  Luther  and  provoked 
the  Reformation. 

The  space  covered  by  this  cathedral  is 
equal  to  about  eight  acres. 

On  the  central  pavement  of  the  nave,  are 
marked  the  measurements  of  St.  Peter’s,  com- 
pared with  those  of  other  principal  ecclesias- 
tical structures.  From  this  it  appears  that 


206 


HOMEWARD. 


the  length  of  these  buildings  is  as  follows; — 
St.  Peter’s  613  feet;  St.  Paul’s  52(4|  feet; 
Milan  Cathedral  443  feet ; St.  Paul's  (Rome) 
419^  feet;  St.  Sophia’s  (Constantinople)  360 
feet.  The  diameter  of  the  cupola  of  St. 
Peter’s  is  195*  feet.  The  height  of  the  dome, 
from  the  pavement  to  the  base  of  the  lantern, 
is  405  feet,  and  to  the  to])  of  the  cross  out- 
>ide,  it  is  448  feet.  Thus  St.  Peter’s  at  Rome 
exceeds  St.  Paul’s  in  London  by  93^  feet  in 
length,  by  64  feet  in  height,  and  by  50  feet 
in  the  diameter  of  the  cupola.  And  it  is 
ipiite  true  that  St.  Paul's  could  be  set  within 
St.  Peter’s  and  the  highest  point  of  the  spire 
of  St.  Paul's  would  be  21  feet  below  the  base 
of  the  lantern  in  St.  Peter’s. 

A horse  might  be  led  up  the  broad  spiral 
staircase  which  leads  to  the  roof,  s,»  gradual 
and  gentle  is  the  ascent. 

The  ball  from  which  the  cross  rises  is  cop- 
per, eight  feet  in  diameter  and  large  enough 
to  contain  sixteen  persons. 

From  this  commanding  position,  all  Rome 
lies  spread  out  before  you,  bounded  by  the 
Apennines  and  Alban  Hills  on  one  side,  and 
the  Mediterranean  sea  on  the  other. 

St.  Paul's  is  said  to  be  erected  over  the 
tomb  of  the  apostle  whose  name  it  bears,  and 
who  was  beheaded  by  order  of  Nero. 

When  brought  the  second  time  before  that 


A BRIDGE  OVER  THE  TIBER — ROHE 


ST.  PAUL  IN  ROME. 


207 


tyrant,  aware  of  liis  condemnation,  the  ven- 
erable apostle  wrote  his  second  epistle  to 
Timothy,  which  was  probably  his  last. 

He  writes,  “ I am  now  ready  to  be  offered, 
and  the  time  of  my  departure  is  at  hand  .... 
At  my  first  answer  (viz.  before  Nero)  no  man 
stood  with  me.  . .1  was  delivered  out  of  the 
mouth  of  the  lion. 

Writing  to  the  Philippians  he  says,  “The 
tilings  which  have  happened  to  me,  have  fal- 
len out  rather  to  the  futherance  of  the  gospel, 
so  that  my  bonds  for  Christ  are  manifest  in 
all  the  palace.” 

This  extension  of  the  gospel,  into  the  very 
palace  of  Caesar,  it  is  said,  provoked  him  to 
put  Paul  to  death. 

The  old  Forum  has  been  laid  bare,  and  we 
often  passed  it.  Here  Cicero  delivered  his 
eloquent  orations;  here  Julius  Caesar  fell, 
and  here  he  was  eulogized  bv  Mark  An- 
tony. But  a few  steps  away,  is  the  famous 
arch  of  Titus  erected  to  commemorate  the 
triumphal  entry  of  Titus  into  Rome,  when  he 
returned  from  the  destruction  of  Jerusalem ; 
and  the  bas  relief  represents  the'  procession, 
in  which  are  borne  the  sacred  vessels  taken 
from  the  temple.  The  table  of  shewbread, 
the  silver  trumpets  used  by  the  priests,  the 
golden  candlestick  with  its  seven  branches, 
are  all  seen,  corresponding  exactly  with  the 


208 


HOMEWARD. 


Bible  descriptions.  Upon  this  panel  the  old 
Roman  sculptor  has  left  us  the  only  u visible 
representation  that  exists”  of  these  sacred 
vessels.  No  Jew  ever  passes  beneath  this 
arch,  though  it  is  erected  over  one  of  the 
most  frequented  streets.  It  is  a memorial  of 
the  destruction  of  their  temple  and  city  and 
they  will  not  acknowledge  their  subjugation 
by  passing  beneath  it. 

We  saw  all  the  most  noted  churches,  the 
yellow  Tiber  and  Tarpeian  rock,  the  palace 
of  the  Caesars,  the  baths  and  the  catacombs, 
the  palace  of  Victor  Immanuel  and  the  Vati- 
can, numerous  galleries  of  paintings  and  other 
works  of  art,  etc. 

The  catacombs  we  visited,  are  on  the  Ap- 
pian  way  a mile  or  two  outside  the  city  walls, 
in  a grassy  field,  among  beautiful  beds  of 
roses  in  full  bloom,  you  descend  into  the  earth 
by  means  of  a narrow  staircase.  The  guide 
with  lighted  torch  led  the  way,  and  took 
us  by  a narrow  passage  many  feet  under 
ground,  through  tin*  most  intricate  windings. 
Upon  each  side,  as  you  walk  along,  are  the 
cavities  once  occupied  by  the  dead.  There 
were  numerous  inscriptions  on  marble,  mark- 
ing these  spots,  but  the  slabs  have  been  re- 
moved to  the  Vatican.  The  rock  is  tufa,  a 
soft  volcanic  formation,  easily  excavated. 

We  passed  several  small  rooms,  and  a 


THE  CATACOMBS. 


THE  CATACOMBS. 


209 


chapel,  wandering  on  till  the  thought  that 
some  accident  might  befall  us  or  our  guide, 
made  us  fear  to  go  further.  As  we  have  since 
learned,  our  fears  were  not  groundless;  besides 
the  danger  of  losing  your  way,  the  top  some- 
times falls  in,  blocking  up  the  passage  and 
cutting  off  all  hope  of  escape. 

Of  those  who  go  in,  a number  never  come 
out.  u Several  years  since,  fifteen  or  twenty 
youth  connected  with  one  of  the  colleges  of 
Rome,  accompanied  by  a teacher,  descended 
with  candles,  taking  the  usual  precautions  to 
secure  their  safe  return  to  the  light  of  day, 
but  not  one  of  them  ever  came  out  to  tell  the 
fate  of  the  rest.  They  either  lost  their  way, 
and  wandered  on  in  hope  of  finding  the  path 
that  would  lead  them  back,  until  compelled  by 
exhaustion  to  lie  down  and  die,  or  the  fall  of 
the  earth  on  the  path  they  had  taken,  cut  off 
their  escape.  Long  and  diligent  search  was 
made,  but  to  this  day  nothing  is  known  of 
how,  or  where  in  the  vast  labyrinth  they  were 
overtaken  by  death.  The  imaginations  of 
those  w ho  go  down  into  those  dark  recesses, 
picture  many  a fearful  scene,  which  no  words 
have  power  to  express. 

Later  still,  an  artist  entered  the  Catacombs 
alone,  providing  himself  with  a ball  of  twine, 
which  he  unwound  as  he  wandered  on,  until 
he  became  absorbed  u ith  the  records  and 


•210 


HOMEWARD . 


recollections  of  other  days.  When  lie  came 
to  himself,  the  slender  thread  that  hound 
him  to  the  outer  world  was  missing;  with 
his  dim  taper  he  searched  for  it  in  vain;  at 
last  the  light  grew  dim,  and  was  then  extin- 
guished. In  the  horror  of  despair,  he  groped 
from  one  passage  to  another,  until  at  last  he 
stumbled  in  the  darkness,  and,  in  his  strug- 
gles, his  hand  caught  the  thread  which 
brought  him  hack  to  the  world.” 

One  day  we  drove  out  to  the  Church  of  St. 
John  Lateran.  The  Chapter  of  this  church 
still  takes  precedence  of  that  of  St.  Peter’s; 
here  all  the  popes  are  crowned.  In  a chapel, 
near  by,  is  the  Santa  Scale,  a marble  staircase, 
brought  from  Jerusalem,  and  said  to  be  that 
by  which  the  Saviour  descended,  when  he 
left  Pilate’s  judgment  hall. 

It  was  when  Luther  was  ascending  these 
stairs  upon  his  knees,  as  we  see  poor  deluded 
souls  to-dav,  that  a voice  seemed  to  say  to 
him,  “ The  just  shall  live  la/  faith?'  And 
bounding  from  the  half  ascended  Santa  Seala, 
he  went  forth,  with  the  spirit  that  enkindled 
the  Reformation. 

Li  the  Church  of  Capuchin  is  a celebrated 
picture  of  St.  Michael,  Vanquishing  Satan. 
We  did  not  stop  to  look  at  it  long,  but  in- 
timated our  desire  to  see  the  vaults  below. 
The  attendant  monk  nodded  assent,  and  mo- 


FRESCOING  WITH  IIUMAN  BONES.  211 


tionecl  us  to  go  outside.  He  descended  and 
admitted  us  through  a side  door  to  a most 
horrible  spectacle. 

Along  the  eastern  side  of  the  lower  story 
of  the  church,  extended  a long  hall  divided 
into  six  compartments.  These  open  on  an 
avenue  running  the  whole  length,  so  that 
the  visitor  can  walk  leisurely,  and  examine  in 
detail,  what  Mark  Twain  calls  “the  upholster- 
ing” of  every  apartment.  The  walls  of  each 
room  are  decorated  with  entirely  different 
designs,  and  these  elaborate  frescoes,  branches 
and  leaves,  twining  vines,  petals,  and  tendrils 
are  all  composed  of  human  bones ! In  the 
centre  of  each  apartment,  are  beds  of  earth 
brought  from  Palestine.  Here  the  remains 
of  the  monks  are  deposited  at  death.  After 
a suitable  time  has  elapsed,  they  are  exhumed, 
and  if  the  flesh  has  entirely  decayed  away, 
the  bones  are  used  to  ornament  the  apartment. 
Skulls,  thigh  bones,  etc.,  which  do  not  fall  in- 
to the  design,  are  piled  up  in  pyramids. 

Some  old  monks,  whose  skin  had  shrivelled 
and  dried  upon  the  bones,  were  dressed  in  the 
ordinary  black  garb  of  the  priests,  and  reclin- 
ed upon  a stack  of  thigh  bones,  or  stood  in  a 
little  alcove  highly  ornamented  with  bone 
frescoing. 

One  who  has  seen  these  strange  sights  can 
never  forget  the  expression  of  the  faces,  the 


212 


HOMEWARD. 


dried  and  sunken  eyes, — tlie  nose  wasted  a- 
way,  and  the  teeth  grinning  through  shrivell- 
ed lips. 

The  Colosseum  is  one  of  the  most  stupen- 
dous ruins  in  existence.  It  was  composed  of 
travertine  marble.  Three  rows  of  arches, 
supported  by  half  columns,  surrounded  it, 
each  row  numbering  eighty  arches,  and  the 
edifice  terminated  by  four  rows  of  pillars — 
the  first  Doric,  the  second  Ionic,  and  the 
third  and  fourth  Corinthian.  This  immense 
amphitheatre  has  a circumference  of  1,702 
feet  and  is  163  feet  hi«-h.  There  was  ac- 

O 

connnodation  for  107,000  spectators.  Imagine 
such  an  immense  congregation  assembled  to 
witness  the  dying  agonies  of  gladiators ! 
This  ground  upon  which  we  now  tread  has 
drunk  the  blood  of  many  Christian  martyrs ! 
Upon  this  very  spot  Ignatius  was  torn  in 
pieces  by  wild  beasts. 

In  a letter  still  extant,  and  ascribed  to  him, 
we  have  the  following  wonderful  passage; 
— “ Let  fire  and  the  cross ; let  the  companies 
of  the  wild  beasts;  let  breaking  of  bones 
and  tearing  of  members;  let  the  scattering 
in  pieces  of  the  whole  body,  and  all  the 
wicked  torments  of  the  devil  come  upon  me ; 
only  let  me  enjoy  Jesus  Christ.  I would 
rather  die  for  Jesus  Christ,  than  rule  to  the 
utmost  ends  of  the  Earth.” 


RCl^IS  OF  THE  COLISEUM,  AT  ROME. 


IGNATIUS  TOBN  BY  LIONS. 


213 


History  says ; — “ He  spent  his  last  days 
praying  for  tlie  peace  and  prosperity  of  the 
church.  On  the  20th.  of  December  he  was 
brought  out  into  the  amphitheatre,  and  the 
lions  being  let  loose  upon  him,  quickly  des- 
patched him ; leaving  nothing  but  a few 
bones.” 

The  prison  of  the  apostles  is  under  the 
church  of  St.  Guiseppe  de  Falegnami.  It 
consists  of  two  chambers  one  over  the  other, 
excavated  in  the  rock.  In  the  centre  of  the 
vault  is  a hole  through  which  it  is  said  the 
prisoners  were  let  down.  A more  horrible 
place  it  is  difficult  to  imagine. 

The  castle  of  St.  Angelo  is  a massive  cir- 
cular tower  987  feet  in  circumference.  As 
you  cross  one  of  the  bridges  over  the  Tiber, 
it  is  directly  in  front.  It  contains  the  remains 
of  many  of  the  Roman  Emperors.  In  the 
year  1500  it  was  repaired  and  connected  with 
the  Vatican  by  a covered  gallery. 

The  Vatican  used  to  be  the  winter  residence 
of  the  popes.  But  since  the  downfall  of  the 
papal  power,  the  pope  has  retired  to  this 
palace  where  he  claims  to  be  a prisoner.* 

This  palace  certainly  existed  as  early  as 
the  eighth  century,  for  Charlemagne  resided 
in  it  at  his  coronation. 


* Since  deceased. 


214 


HOMEWARD. 


The  Vatican  with  the  church  of  St.  Peter, 
the  colounade  and  Fountains,  all  adjoining, 
cover  twenty  acres  of  land.  In  the  palace 
there  are  eight  grand  staircases,  and  two  hund- 
red smaller  ones;  20  courts  and  4,422  rooms. 

Of  the  numerous  remains  of  heathen  tem- 
ples in  Rome,  the  Pantheon  is  in  the  best 
state  of  preservation,  and  a splendid  moun- 
ment  of  antiquity.  It  was  built  by  Agrippa 
27  B.  C.  About  six  hundred  years  afterwards, 
it  was  consecrated  as  a church.  The  portico 
is  110  feet  long,  and  supported  by  sixteen 
columns  of  oriental  granite,  each  composed  of 
a single  block,  with  beautiful  capitals.  They 
are  forty-six  feet  long,  and  fifteen  in  circum- 
ference. The  Pantheon  is  circular,  143  feet 
in  diameter  and  the  same  in  height.  The 
walls  are  unbroken  by  window  or  other  aper- 
ture, and  the  only  light  admitted  is  through 
a round  opening  in  the  cupola,  27  feet  in 
diameter. 

Says  Dr.  Prime.  “ One  can  look  up  and 
see  the  clouds  floating  by,  or  gaze  into  the 
blue  ether,  while  the  lower  world  is  shut  out 
by  walls  which  no  earthly  sounds  can  penet- 
rate. The  poetry  and  sublimity  of  this  con- 
ception for  a temple  may  be  imagined.  It 
excludes  all  things  terrestrial — opens  heaven 
alone  to  the  worshiper,  and  that,  too,  without 
any  intervening  medium.” 


GUIDO'S  BEATRICE  CENCI. 


215 


One  should  not  leave  Rome  without  see- 
ing Guido’s  Beatrice  Cenci.  This  celebrat- 
ed picture  is  in  the  gallery  of  the  Palace 
Barberini.  Some  say  it  was  taken  the  night 
before  her  execution,  other  accounts  state  that 
Guido  painted  it  from  memory,  after  he  had 
seen  her  mount  the  scaffold.  The  poet  Shelley 
says  of  this  picture ; — 

“ She  seems  sad,  and  stricken  down  in 
spirit,  yet  the  despair  thus  expressed  is  light- 
ened by  the  patience  of  gentleness.  Her 
head  is  bound  with  folds  of  white  drapery, 
from  which  the  yellow  strings  of  her  golden 
hair  escape,  and  fall  about  her  neck.  The 
moulding  of  her  face  is  exquisitely  delicate ; 
the  eye-brows  are  distinct  and  arched;  the 
lips  have  that  permanent  meaning  of  imagina- 
tion and  sensibility,  which  suffering  has  not 
repressed,  and  which  it  seems  as  if  death 
scarcely  could  extinguish.  Her  forehead  is 
large  and  clear;  her  eyes,  which  we  are  told 
were  remarkable  for  their  vivacity,  are  swol- 
len with  weeping,  and  lustreless,  but  beauti- 
fully tender  and  serene.  In  the  whole  mien 
there  is  simplicity  and  dignity,  which,  united 
with  her  exquisite  loveliness  and  deep  sorrow, 
are  inexpressibly  pathetic.  Beatrice  Cenci 
appears  to  have  been  one  of  those  rare  per- 
sons, in  whom  energy  and  gentleness  dwell 
together,  without  destroying  one  another : 


216 


HOMEWARD. 


her  nature  was  simple  and  profound.  The 
crimes  and  miseries  in  which  she  was  an  actor, 
and  a sufferer , are  as  the  mask  and  the  mantle 
in  which  circumstances  clothed  her  for  her 
impersonation  on  the  scene  of  the  world.” 
The  terrible  tragedy  which  has  invested  this 
picture  with  such  peculiar  interest  took  place 
at  the  Castle  of  Petrella. 

XXVI. 

FLORENCE,  BOLOGNA,  AND  TURIN. 

Tiie  Railway  from  Reme  to  Florence  lies 
along  the  foot  of  the  Appenines,  and  so  often 
passes  through  spurs  of  this  range,  that  you 
seem  half  the  time  under  ground.  Emerging 
from  the  tunnels,  beautiful  prospects,  or  wild 
and  sublime  scenery  breaks  upon  the  view. 

Shall  we  see  the  world  renowned  tower  of 
Pisa,  and  the  cathedral  at  Milan,  or  go 
through  Florence  and  see  its  wonderful  works 
of  art?  When  about  to  decide  in  favor  of 
the  former  route,  a friend  advised  us  by  all 
means  to  go  by  the  way  of  Florence,  and  we 
do  not  regret  taking  his  advice. 

Florence  is  beautifully  situated  upon  both 
sides  of  the  Arno  and  surrounded  by  hills. 
It  is  not,  however,  confined  to  the  valley,  but 
extends  back  over  the  hills,  “the  whole  region 


THE  GEMS  OF  ART. 


217 


glittering  with  villages  and  country  houses, 
which  crown  the  summits  and  nestle  in  the 
valleys.” 

Florence  is  the  literary  and  artistic  capital 
of  Italy,  and  is  deservedly  styled  the  Italian 
Athens.  No  other  city  possesses,  within  such 
narrow  limits,  so  many  artistic  treasures.  In 
the  Tribune  and  Pitti  palace  are  works  of  art 
that  rival  the  best  in  Rome. 

The  Tribune  is  octagonal,  paved  with  preci- 
ous marbles  and  surmounted  with  a cupola, 
inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl,  and  contains  many 
gems  of  art.  Among  the  numerous  master- 
pieces here  brought  together  we  may  notice, 
the  Venus  de’  Medici,  The  Grinder,  The 
Wrestlers  and  The  Dancing  Faun.  In  the 
art  gallery  of  the  Pitti  Palace  we  spent  more 
time  before  “The  Madonna  della  Seggiola” 
than  any  other  one  picture,  and  turned  back 
to  take  another  look,  again  and  again.  It  was 
the  one  thing  we  most  wished  to  see  in 
Florence,  and  can  never  regret  making  the 
pilgrimage.  Some  good  judges  say  there  is  a 
sweetness  and  a divine  expression  upon  the 
face  of  the  infant  Redeemer,  which  none  of 
the  copies  or  engravings  have  caught. 

We  drove  about  the  city,  seeing  the  prin- 
cipal sights,  among  which  may  be  mentioned 
the  Sante  Croce,  where  rest  the  ashes  of 
Galileo.  Beneath  the  same  roof  is  the  tomb 


218 


HOMEWAED. 


of  Dante,  though  his  remains  are  not  in  it. 
We  also  visited  Powers’s  studio  and  his  son’s 
gallery. 

In  these  studios  we  learn  some  of  the 
secrets  of  the  sculptor’s  art.  It  seems  that 
the  great  artist  forms  his  model  in  clay,  and 
turns  it  over  to  an  assistant  who,  has  perhaps 
less  skill  in  moulding  the  clay  but  is  able  to 
use  the  chisel.  This  workman  by  careful 
measurement  brings  the  rouo-h  marble  into 
the  exact  shape  of  the  clay  model.  The  artist 
realizes  his  ideal  by  selection.  The  brow  of 
one  person,  the  neck  of  another,  the  arm  of 
a third,  suits  his  idea  of  beauty ; and  he  may 
employ  twenty  or  more  persons  to  sit,  before 
he  has  finished  a single  model. 

The  Florentine  mosaics  are  the  choicest  in 
the  world,  and  we  spent  a part  of  the  last  day 
admiring  them,  and  selecting  a few  specimens. 

Near  sun  set  we  ascended  one  of  the  hills, 
and  beheld  the  city,  when  the  golden  sunlight 
kindled  upon  spire  and  dome,  turret  and 
tower.  The  Arno  glides  silently  beneath 
the  graceful  arches,  and  on  the  slopes  of  the 
mountains,  beautiful  villas  gleam  white  in  the 
sunlight,  mid  the  silver  leaves  of  the  olive 
groves. 

A few  hours  ride  in  the  cars,  and  we  are 
in  Bologna.  The  gallery  here  contains  many 
of  Guido’s  paintings.  His  Crucifixion  is  said 


BOLOGNA  AND  TURIN. 


221 


to  combine  more  dignity,  pathos  and  truth 
than  any  other  artist  has  been  able  to  throw 
upon  the  canvas  in  connection  with  this  sub- 
ject. We  now  learn,  for  the  first  time,  that 
Pisa  has  not  monopolized  the  leaning  towers ; 
Bologna  boasts  more  than  one. 


LEANING  TOWER  OF  PISA. 


From  Bologna  we  go  to  Turin.  It  is  a 
fine  spring  day;  the  fruit  trees  are  in  bloom, 
and  the  country  is  looking  fresh  and  beauti- 
ful. Here  are  no  wild  forests,  but  the  trees 
are  planted  out  in  rows  across  the  fields, 
and  grapes  are  cultivated  between  them,  the 


•222 


HOMEWARD. 


vines  stretching  from  tree  to  tree.  The  cat- 
tle are  not  turned  into  pastures,  hut  tethered 
in  the  fields,  and  barns  are  connected  with 
the  houses  as  sheds  or  wings.  The  winters 
are  so  short  and  mild  that  the  cattle  probably 
graze  nearly  all  winter.  The  barns  certainly 
seem  too  small  to  contain  much  hay.  The 
white  capped  mountains  have  been  in  sight 
nearly  all  day,  and  the  scenery  very  beau- 
tiful. 

On  reaching  Turin,  we  found  ourselves  in 
one  of  the  finest  stations  we  had  ever  seen. 
The  immense  roof  is  composed  entirely  of  iron 
and  glass,  after  the  style  of  the  Crystal  palace 
in  London. 

The  Waldensian  church  has  its  centre  in 
Turin.  We  spent  the  Sabbath  here  and 
listened  to  the  Rev.  T.  P.  Meille,  preaching 
in  French,  to  a large  and  interested  congrega- 
tion. His  eloquent  tones  sent  home  to  tlie 
heart  the  little  we  could  understand,  and 
made  our  very  souls  thrill  with  Christian 
sympathy.  Living  amidst  great  ignorance 
and  vice,  these  people  are  the  representatives 
of  that  noble  band,  who  preserved  their 
integrity  during  the  dark  ages,  preferring 
death  to  dishonor. 

After  sermon,  Mr.  Meille  invited  us  to  go 
and  see  a traveller,  who  was  lying  sick 
and  apparently  dying.  He  was  an  American 


I'1 


ABMOHIaL  hall 


THE  SICK  TRAVELLER, 


225 


and  from  the  State  of  Pennsylvania.  We 
found  him  too  weak  to  talk  much,  but  glad 
to  hear  the  Bible  read  and  join  in  prayer. 
He  expressed  his  resignation  to  the  will  of 
the  Lord,  and  seemed  prepared  to  die. 

The  River  Po  runs  along  the  eastern  side 
of  the  city,  and  is  crossed  by  two  pretty 
bridges.  On  the  opposite  side  are  hills  cover- 
ed with  villas  and  religious  establishments. 
The  top  of  these  hills  commands  a fine  view 
of  the  city  and  country  around.  We  started 
for  a ride  to  include  this  view,  but  the  driver 
was  under  the  influence  of  strong  drink,  and, 
accidentally  or  on  purpose,  omitted  ascending 
the  hill.  Though  we  repeated  the  sentence 
as  taught  us  in  Italian,  and  with  extravagant 
gestures,  we  were  still  unable  to  make  him 
understand. 

Kossuth  is  spending  the  decline  of  life,  in 
this  beautiful  locality,  but  we  did  not  have 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  him.  We  secured 
some  specimens  of  the  filligree  work,  made 
here  in  such  perfection,  and  spent  a pleasant 
half  day  strolling  through  one  of  the  great 
museums  of  the  world.  In  an  Armorial  Hall, 
connected  with  the  museum,  are  numerous 
mounted  effigies  clad  in  various  styles  of  armor. 

The  next  day  we  were  ready  to  cross  the 
mountains,  or  rather  to  pass  through  them, 
into  Switzerland. 


XXVII. 


THROUGH  MONT  CENIS  TUNNEL  TO  GENEVA. 

The  Alps  form  a natural  boundary  between 
France,  Switzerland,  and  the  Tyrol  on  the 
North,  and  Italy  on  the  South. 

There  are  numerous  passes  over  these  mo- 
untains. Mont  Cenis  and  the  St.  Gothard 
both  attract  us.  If  you  select  the  latter,  you 
may  go  from  Milan  by  rail  to  Lake  Como, 
thence  by  steamer  through  the  lake,  and  by 
diligence  to  the  Swiss  side  of  the  Alps.  By 
this  route  one  must  be  prepared  with  winter 
clothing,  or  he  cannot  endure  the  cold  of  the 
upper  region  where  he  may  have  a day  or 
two  among  snow-drifts. 

Being  provided  with  clothes  suitable  only 
for  spring  weather,  we  abandon  all  thought 
of  a route  that  otherwise  would  have  been 
most  desirable. 

We  do  not  so  much  regret  being  shut  up  to 


Railway  over  Mont  C'ems. 


AMONG  THE  ALPS. 


229 


Mont  Cenis,  since  we  shall  see  the  tunnel, 
one  of  the  greatest  achievements  of  science 
the  world  lias  witnessed. 

For  sometime  after  leaving  Turin,  our  way 
lay  through  the  finely  cultivated  fields,  which 
cover  the  level  plateau  of  upper  Italy.  But 
it  is  soon  evident,  that  we  are  leaving  the 
plain  and  entering  the  mountains.  The  road 
winds  along  the  banks  of  a stream,  fed  by  the 
glaciers  and  fathomless  snow-beds  of  the 
upper  regions.  We  shoot  through  tunnels, 
and  toil  up  steep  grades,  and  round  high 
cliffs,  till  we  are  in  the  snow  region;  and  look 
down  upon  the  road  or  village  far  below, 
and  almost  perpendicularly  beneath  us.  The 
houses,  men,  and  donkeys  seem  dwarfed  to 
the  size  of  a child’s  toys.  It  is  a beautiful, 
clear  day,  and  the  mists  recede  before  us, 
and  the  air  constantly  grows  colder,  as  the 
train,  with  two  engines,  is  impelled  onward 
and  upward. 

After  several  hours  amidst  this  beautiful 
and  sublime  Alpine  scenery,  the  engines  stop 
at  the  entrance  to  the  great  tunnel.  The 
pause  affords  the  hands  connected  with  the 
train,  an  opportunity  to  see  that  all  is  in 
order.  The  tunnel  is  eight  miles  long,  and 
the  train  occupies  about  twenty  minutes  in 
passing  through  it.  An  asthmatic  passenger 
in  our  car,  wished  the  windows  carefully 


•280 


HOMEWAED. 


closed ; but  it  is  said  that  the  air  is  pure,  aud 
no  inconvenience  is  experienced  from  the 
smoke,  if  the  windows  are  open. 

Crossing  the  Alps  in  fine  cars,  is  a very 
different  experience  from  that  of  Napoleon 
and  his  army,  when  they  wound  through  these 
defiles,  and  climbed  these  rugged  cliff’s. 

We  quickly  glide  down  the  other  side,  and 
at  the  first  station  in  France,  meet  the  pass- 
port and  custom  service  nuisance.  We  pre- 
sented our  luggage  to  be  rummaged  as  much 
as  they  pleased ; handing  the  officer  a franc 
to  expedite  matters,  and  pay  him  for  his 
trouble , he  immediately  passed  it,  putting  a 
chalk  mark  upon  each  package.  It  is  per- 
fectly wonderful,  to  see  how  a little  money 
greases  the  wheels  of  government.  We  ar- 
rived in  Geneva  late  in  the  evening.  The 
scenery  we  have  passed  through  has  been 
as  remarkable  and  varied  as  could  be  seen 
in  one  day ; picturesque,  beautiful,  quiet  and 
sublime. 

Geneva  is  situated  on  the  southern  shore 
of  the  lake  of  the  same  name.*  Pretty  little 
steamers  ply  on  the  lake,  making  regular  ex- 
cursions daily. 

Its  beautiful  natural  scenery,  salubrious 


* Also  called  Lake  Lemaii.  It  is  crescent  shaped  and 
the  largest  lake  in  Switzerland  being  about  40  miles  long 
and  six  miles  wide. 


A GLIMPSE  OF  MONT  BLANC. 


•233 


climate,  good  institutions  of  learning,  and 
healthy  moral  atmosphere,  make  Geneva  one 
of  the  most  desirable  places  for  a residence  in 
the  world.  Here  lived  the  Empress  Jose- 
phine, Voltaire,  Milton,  and  Byron ; Gibbon, 
the  historian,  lived  near  by,  at  Lausanne. 
Calvin  and  Sir  Humphrey  Davy  are  buried 
here. 

In  clear  weather,  Mont  Blanc  is  seen  tower- 
ing above  the  other  high  mountains  of  this 
mountainous  region,  lifting  his  head  to  the 
very  clouds  from  which  he  is  sometimes  hard- 
ly distinguishable,  and  among  which  his  head 
is  nearly  always  hid.  During  the  day  we 
watched  it  constantly,  and  were  repaid  by  a 
glimpse  of  his  loftiest  peak.  For  a brief  mo- 
ment the  vail  of  clouds  was  swept  away,  and 
Mont  Blanc  stood  before  us  in  all  his  awful 
sublimity  and  grandeur ! 

To-day  we  have  taken  a carriage,  and  spent 
several  hours  visiting  some  of  the  most  in- 
teresting localities.  We  drove  to  a point 
where  the  blue  waters  of  the  Rhone,  after 
passing  through  the  lake,  mingle  with  the 
muddy  water  of  the  Arve,  fresh  from  the 
glaciers.  The  streams  run  side  by  side  for  a 
little  distance,  and  the  lines  of  separation  be- 
tween the  blue  and  white  water,  may  be  traced 
far  below  the  point  of  junction.  At  length 
the  muddy  Arve  gains  the  mastery,  and  the 


234 


HOMEWARD. 


Rhone  once  polluted,  never  regains  its  purity. 

We  passed  the  chateau  where  the  Empress 
Josephine  lived  after  her  divorce.  This  spot 
commands  a fine  view  of  Mont  Blanc. 

Geneva  has  long  been  noted  for  its  exten- 
sive manufactories  of  watches,  musical  boxes, 
and  jewelry.  One  hundred  thousand  watches 
are  turned  out  annually. 

XXVIII. 

BASLE,  STRASBURG,  AND  MAYENCE. 

On  the  ninth  of  May  we  travelled  from 
Geneva  to  Basle.  The  train  left  at  half  past 
eleven,  and  reached  Basle  at  eight  in  the 
evening,  giving  us  a day  among  the  charming 
scenery  of  Switzerland. 

Our  way  lies  through  Lausanne,  Freyburg 
and  Berne.  At  first  the  road  skirts  the 
western  shore  of  Lake  Leman,  giving  us  a 
view  of  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  with 
the  white  capped  Alps  in  the  distance. 

The  country  is  hilly,  and  on  the  eastern 
slopes,  vines  are  cultivated,  in  rows  about 
three  feet  apart.  The  old  stumps  are  a foot 
high,  and  the  one  or  two  branches  allowed 
to  grow  are  tied  to  upright  sticks  three  or 
four  feet  high ; the  leaves  are  just  beginning 
to  appear. 


FREYBURG  AND  BERNE. 


235 


The  vineyards  and  well  cultivated  fields,  tin* 
pretty  Swiss  cottages,  with  their  projecting 
eaves,  hill  and  dale,  forest  and  grove,  rill 
and  stream,  village  and  town,  all  seemed  to 
fly  past,  as  we  sat  at  the  window  of  the  car, 
and  enjoyed  the  ever  varying  and  beautiful 
panorama, 

Freyburg  is  situated  upon  a promontory 
formed  by  the  windings  of  the  Saane.  Many 
of  the  houses  stand  on  the  very  edge  of  the 
precipice,  overhanging  the  river.  Their  quaint 
architecture,  with  the  singular  and  romantic 
features  of  the  gorge,  gives  to  the  town  an 
imposing  and  picturesque  appearance. 

The  river  Aar  sweeps  through  and  around 
Berne,  flowing  at  the  bottom  of  a deep  gully, 
with  steep  sides.  The  city  stands  upon  an 
elevated  platform,  about  seventeen  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  houses  are  nearly 
all  built  of  massive  stone,  giving  them  an  ap- 
pearance of  great  solidity. 

From  Berne  the  language  begins  to  change. 
The  German  is  spoken  instead  of  the  French, 
which  the  Swiss  speak  with  such  a pleasing 
accent.  The  signs  on  the  shops  and  the  no- 
tices etc.,  about  the  stations,  are  all  in 
German. 

We  see  a specimen  of  what  is  called  the 
“black  forest;11  the  fir  tree  prevailing,  though 
in  places  there  is  a sprinkling  of  a light  green, 


236 


HOMEWARD. 


mingling  with  the  dark,  showing  the  presence 
of  birch  and  beech. 

The  rugged  mountain  cliffs  near  Berne  re- 
mind one  of  the  story  of  William  Tell.  The 
scenes  of  his  exploits  are  far  away  to  the 
right. 

We  see  many  fine  orchards,  the  buds  of  the 
apple  and  pear  trees  j ust  bursting  into  bloom, 
while  other  trees  are  full  of  open  blosoms. 

The  horse  chestunt  trees,  so  abundant  in 
Geneva,  are  seen  all  along  the  route  and  in 
full  bloom. 

We  have  spent  two  pleasant  weeks  in 
Basle,  visiting  its  old  cathedral,  ruined  cast- 
les, museum,  and  every  place  of  interest.  It 
is  a pretty  city,  with  a history  reaching  far 
back  into  the  dark  ages. 

We  saw  here,  for  the  first  time,  a ferry  pro- 
pelled across  the  stream  without  the  aid  of 
rowing,  wind,  or  steam.  The  current  of  the 
Rhine  just  here  is  so  swift,  that  a boat  at- 
tempting to  cross,  would  probably  touch  the 
opposite  shore  a mile  or  two  below.  After 
a few  ineffectual  attempts,  the  boatman  would 
naturally  make  fast  to  some  point  far  up 
stream,  and  by  means  of  a long  rope  swring 
himself  across.  Something  of  this  kind  may 
be  seen  on  the  Connecticut  river,  in  New 
England. 

But  the  Swiss  boatman  has  advanced  a 


AN  INGENIOUS  FERRY. 


237 


step  further ; he  -stretches  a large  rope  from 
bank  to  bank  across  the  river.  To  a pulley, 
gliding  back  and  forth  on  this  rope,  a long  line 
is  attached,  the  other  end  being  made  fast  to 
the  bow  of  the  boat.  With  this  simple  ar- 
rangement the  boatman  has  no  occasion  to 
row.  He  simply  turns  his  prow  towards  the 
opposite  shore,  pointing  slightly  up  stream, 
and  it  glides  across  as  straight  as  an  arrow. 

In  nearly  all  the  public  squares,  throughout 
Europe,  there  are  beautiful  fountains,  though 
there  seems  a lack  of  good  taste  in  the  ar- 
rangement of  figures,  connected  with  them. 
Bronze  lions  and  other  animals  are  introduced, 
and  the  water,  is  altogether  too  frequently, 
seen  flowing  from  their  mouths.  But  in  an 
obscure  street  in  Basle  we  came  across  a speci- 
men of  better  taste.  It  was  a bronze  figure 
of  a child,  holding  a bottle,  from  which  the 
water  poured  into  a trough  near  the  sidewalk. 

This  is  the  head  quarters  of  the  Basle  Mis- 
sion. The  school  in  which  young  men  are 
prepared  for  the  work,  is  a fine  institution. 
Instruction  is  given  in  the  English  language, 
vocal  and  instrumental  music,  and  the  other 
sciences. 

Chrischona  is  a similar  school,  on  the  man- 
ual labor  principle.  Chrischona,  situated  on 
a hill  several  miles  in  the  country,  was  former- 
ly a Roman  Catholic  church.  It  had  not  been 


238 


HOMEWARD. 


used  for  many  years,  was  deserted  and  in  ruins. 
A benevolent  gentleman,  who  conceived  the 
idea  of  a manual  labor  school,  thought  it 
would  make  a good  location.  Others  came 
to  his  assistance,  the  old  church  was  repaired, 
and  a large  tract  of  land  extending  over  the 
brow  of  the  hill,  secured  for  cultivation.  A 
house  near  by,  which  seemed  the  only  one 
for  miles  around,  furnishes  a home  for  the 
teachers  and  pupils,  who  all  eat  at  the  same 
table.  To  reach  this  place,  you  take  the  cam 
for  a few  miles  and  leaving  the  railroad,  fol- 
low a wagon  track  as  it  winds  through  the 
forests  up  a long  steep  hill.  These  students 
are  accustomed  to  work,  and  to  self  denial, 
before  they  go  forth  to  labor  in  various  parts 
of  heathendom. 

From  Basle  to  Strasburg  there  is  a railroad 
on  each  side  of  the  Rhine.  The  one  on  the 
French  side  makes  close  connection,  though 
the  scenery  on  the  German  side  is  much  finer ; 
therefore  we  chose  the  latter. 

While  in  Strasburg  we  attended  service  in 
the  Cathedral  and  saw  the  celebrated  clock. 
It  is  really  a most  remarkable  piece  of  mech- 
anism. The  machinery,  dials  and  Gothic  or- 
namentation, nearly  half  fill  the  nave  on  the 
right  of  the  altar.  The  bell  is  exposed,  and 
at  the  proper  moment  little  figures  move  for- 
ward and  strike  it.  Childhood  strikes  the 


TEE  WONDERFULL  CLOCK. 


239 


first  quarter,  youtli  the  second,  manhood  the 
third,  and  old  age  the  last.  The  first  stroke 
of  each  quarter  is  struck  by  one  of  two  genii, 
seated  above  the  perpetual  calendar.  The 
four  ages  strike  the  second.  Whilst  death 
strikes  the  hour,  the  second  of  these  genii 
turns  the  hour  glass  that  he  holds  in  his 
hand. 

Above  is  an  image  of  our  Saviour,  and  at 
noon,  the  twelve  apostles  pass  before  him, 
each  stopping  exactly  in  front,  turns  and 
bows  to  him,  and  He  lifts  up  his  hands  to 
bless  each  as  he  bows.  During  the  passing 
of  the  procession,  a cock,  perched  on  one  of 
the  Gothic  pinnacles,  flaps  his  wings,  and  ex- 
tending his  neck,  crows  three  times  with 
voice  and  motion  true  to  nature. 

The  calendar  is  a perpetual  one,  showing 
the  various  feasts  and  their  connection  with 
Easter  or  Advent  Sundays.  The  dial  is  sub- 
ject to  a revolution  of  365  or  366  days  as  the 
case  may  be. 

There  is  also  an  orrery  after  the  Copernican 
system,  representing  the  revolutions  ot  each  of 
the  planets  visible  to  the  naked  eye,  the 
phases  of  the  moon,  the  eclipses  of  the  sun 
and  moon ; the  true  time  and  siderial  time ; 
a new  celestial  globe  with  the  processions  of 
the  equinox,  solar  and  lunar  equations,  for 
the  reduction  of  the  mean  geocentric  ascen- 


240 


HOMEWARD. 


sion  and  declination  of  the  sun  and  moon ; 
while  a dial  on  the  outside  of  the  church 
shows  the  hours  and  days  of  the  week. 

During  the  bombardment  of  Strasburg, 
many  fears  were  entertained  not  only  here, 
but  by  all  who  appreciate  this  wonderful 
clock,  lest  it  should  be  injured  or  destroyed 
by  the  heavy  cannonade,  poured  upon  the 
city  so  long  and  continuously.  The  ruins  are 
extensive,  and  the  old  cathedral  bears  the 
marks  of  many  balls,  though  not  seriously  in- 
jured, and  the  clock  continued  to  tick  on, 
performing  its  myriad  functions,  as  though 
the  French  and  Germans  were  as  friendly 
as  ever. 

The  storks  are  among  the  queerest  sights 
in  Strasburg.  They  fly  lazily  over  the  houses, 
sit  tranquilly  on  the  roofs,  and  build  their 
nests  on  the  tops  of  the  chimneys.  It  seems 
very  strange  to  see  these  long-legged,  long 
necked  awkward  looking  birds,  so  much  at 
home  in  a populous  city. 

Between  Strasburg  and  Mayence  you  pass 
Worms. 

The  palace,  in  which  Luther  defended  the 
faith  so  boldly,  was  near  the  cathedral,  which 
is  plainly  in  sight  from  the.  railroad.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  Luther  was  summoned 
to  answer  to  the  charge  of  heresy.  His 
friends  fearing  that  he  would  soon  perish  at 


THE  STRASBURG  STORKS. 


241 


the  stake,  as  others  had  done,  if  he  allowed 
himself  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  such  perfidi- 
ous enemies,  dissuaded  him  from  going.  It 
was  on  this  occasion  that  he  made  use  of  the 
memorable  words;  “ Though  there  were  as 
many  devils  in  Worms  as  there  are  tiles  on 
the  roofs  of  the  houses , I would  go  on” 

Standing  in  the  presence  of  Charles  the 
Fifth,  his  nobles,  and  the  Romish  prelates 
thirsting  for  his  blood,  he  delivered  an  able 
defence  of  the  truth,  closing  with  these  words ; 
“Let  me,  then,  be  refuted  and  convinced  by 
the  testimony  of  the  Seripture,  or  by  the 
clearest  argument;  otherwise  I cannot  and  will 
not  recant,  for  it  is  neither  safe  nor  expedient 
to  act  against  conscience.  Here  I stand ; 1 
cannot  do  otherwise ; God  help  me.” 


XXIX. 

DOWN  THE  RHINE— PARIS. 

Mayence  is  a thriving  town  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Rhine. 

Here,  and  at  other  places  on  the  Rhine,  we 
saw  what  we  had  never  seen  or  heard  of  be- 
fore; that  is,  mills  built  like  boats  and  an- 
chored in  the  swift  current,  the  wheel  that 
moves  the  machinery  is  like  the  paddle  wheel 


•242 


SOME  WARD. 


of  a steamer  and  turned  not  by  steam,  but  by 
the  motion  of  the  water. 

The  finest  scenery  on  the  Rhine  is  between 
Mayence  and  Cologne. 

Among  the  numerous  steamers,  there  are 
some  resembling  those  on  the  Hudson,  and 
called  “American  Steamers.”  They  are  very 
commodious,  clean,  and  comfortable. 

To-day  we  shall  pass  the  scenery,  which 
more  than  any  other,  we  have  longed  to  see. 
The  morning  is  not  auspicious,  and  as  we 
go  on  board,  the  rain  that  has  been  threaten- 
ing begins  to  pour,  with  the  appearance  of 
a rainy  day. 

It  was  hard  to  think  of  going  down  the 
Rhine  in  such  a rain ; but  hoping  it  would 
cease  we  went  on  board.  There  must  have 
been  many  others  of  the  same  mind,  for  the 
deck  beneath  the  awning,  was  cpiite  crowd- 
ed with  passengers.  Our  hopes  were  realized, 
the  rain  soon  ceased,  and  though  not  sunny 
we  had  a pleasant  day. 

Bingen  is  embowered  in  trees,  and  seen 
from  the  steamer  seems  worthy  of  the  admira- 
tion so  universally  bestowed  upon  it. 

Thus  far  the  banks  have  been  low  and  the 
scenery  very  beautiful.  Further  down,  the 
hills  rise  abruptly  from  the  water’s  edge. 
Terraces  are  earned  up  one  above  another, 
even  where  it  is  necessary  to  support  them 


BINGEN  ON  THE  RHINE, 


i 


RHINE  SCENERY. 


245 


with  walls.  These  steepest  hills  are  planted 
with  vines,  and  cultivated  to  their  tops. 
Again  we  come  to  parts  of  the  river  where 
the  scenery  is  more  sublime,  and  the  tops  of 
the  hills  covered  with  rocks  and  shrubbery. 
By  and  by  they  are  more  sloping,  with  fields 
and  orchards,  extending  back  as  far  as  you 
can  see.  Passing  on  we  come  to  steep,  high 
banks  with  sharp  pointed  rocks.  Below  Ob- 
erwesel  the  cliffs  are  nearly  perpendicular, 
and  two  guns  were  fired,  that  the  passengers 
might  hear  the  echoes. 

About  half  way  to  Cologne,  we  pass  Cob- 
lentz.  The  fort  occupies  an  elevated  position 
on  the  right  bank,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
impregnable  fortresses  in  Europe.  Looking 
up  over  the  grassy  slopes,  you  would  hardly 
believe,  that  they  might  be  made  to  belch 
forth  fire  and  smoke,  from  hundreds  of  mouths, 
or  pour  down  showers  of  shot  and  shell. 

With  the  exception  of  the  high  state  of 
cultivation,  under  which  every  foot  of  soil  is 
brought,  in  these  crowded  and  overtaxed 
countries,  and  the  ruins  of  old  castles  perched 
tipon  its  hill  sides,  telling  their  tales  of  lord- 
ly oppression,  and  legends  of  olden  time, 
the  Rhine  has  little  to  boast  over  our  own 
beautiful  Hudson. 

The  wonderful  cathedral  at  Cologne,  is  the 
most  magnificent  Gothic  structure,  erected  by 


246 


HOMEWARD. 


human  hands.  Though  commenced  six  hund- 
red years  ago,  it  is  still  unfinished,  and  is  likely 
to  be  for  many  years  to  come.  “ In  simplici- 
ty and  grandeur  of  effect,  in  its  power  to  ap- 
peal to  the  heart,  it  is  without  a rival  among 
all  the  structures  erected  for  Christian  wor- 
shi  ’’ 


e made  but  little  stay  at  Cologne,  push- 
ing on  as  far  as  Aix  la  Chapelle.  This  place 
contains  some  sulphur  springs,  which  should 
be  approached  with  caution,  as  they  are  usual- 
ly surrounded  by  a crowd  of  wretched  beings, 
afflicted  with  skin  diseases.  Stopping  a few 
moments  at  the  last  resting  place  of  Charle- 
magne, we  started  on  the  morning  train  for 
Paris.  Our  way  lay  through  the  farming, 
mining,  and  manufacturing  districts  of  Bel- 
gium. Though  spending  a wfflole  day  in  the 
cars,  we  enjoyed  the  ride  very  much.  It  was 
late  in  the  evening  when  we  reached  the 
Hotel  de  Normandie  in  Paris. 

The  next  day  we  took  a carriage  and  visit- 
ed nearly  all  the  places  of  interest.  We 
drove  out  past  the  stately  ruins  of  the  Tuile- 
ries,  and  the  Palais  de  l’lndustrie,  to  the 
Triumphal  Arch.  From  the  top  of  this  mon- 
ument, we  gained  a good  view  of  the  city, 
seeing  distinctly  all  the  prominent  objects. 
Near  by,  is  a hill  over  looking  the  Champs 
de  Mars.  After  witnessing  the  evolutions  of 


NAPOLEON’S  TOMB. 


247 


the  soldiers,  we  went  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne, 
to  see,  what  has  been  considered,  one  of  the 
finest  menageries  in  the  world. 

Napoleon’s  remains  rest  beneath  the  gilded 
dome  of  the  Hotel  des  Invalides  far  away  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  city,  and  we  must  be 
there  before  noon,  or  miss  seeing  the  Empe- 
ror’s mausoleum.  It  is  a noble  edifice  and  cost 
ly  tomb,  a fitting  token  of  respect  to  Napoleon, 

A circular  crypt  occupies  the  centre  of  the 
church,  immediately  beneath  the  lofty  dome. 
Advancing  to  the  white  marble  balustrade, 
which  surrounds  it,  you  look  down  upon  the 
sarcophagus  which  contains  the  remains  of 
Napoleon. 

The  sarcophagus  is  of  red  quartzite,  re- 
sembling the  ancient  porphyry,  and  of  ex- 
quisite workmanship.  It  is  four  metres  in 
length,  two  in  breadth  and  more  than  four 
in  height.  On  the  7th.  of  May,  1861,  it 
received  the  cedar  and  leaden  coffin,  brought 
from  St.  Helena. 

His  brother  Jerome’s  tomb  is  in  another 
part  of  the  crypt,  near  by. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  visited  the  Jardin  des 
Plantes,  and  another  menagerie;  the  Notre 
Dame  and  several  other  churches.  We  look- 
ed through  the  Luxembourg  gallery,  passed 
the  Louvre,  the  ruins  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville, 
and  the  pedestal  of  the  Column  Vendome,  the 


248 


HOMEWARD. 


column  having  been  thrown  down  by  the 
Commune  in  May,  1871.  One  of  the  last 
places  visited  was  the  Morgue.  Here  the 
unknown  dead  are  brought,  and  left  exposed 
to  view,  to  be  recognized. 

To-day  there  are  two  men  lying  here,  upon 
a plane,  slightly  inclined  to  the  glass  partition, 
which  separates  the  room  for  the  dead  from 
the  public.  Their  clothes  hang  on  a peg 
near  by.  They  have  been  washed  and 
shaved,  and,  with  only  a piece  of  tin,  about 
a foot  square  for  a covering,  are  awaiting 
recognition,  or  burial  in  an  unknown  grave. 

We  reached  the  garden  of  the  Tuileries  in 
time  to  listen  to  the  band,  which  plays  there 
at  six  o’clock  in  the  evening.  On  our  way 
to  the  station  the  next  forenoon,  we  drove 
through  some  of  the  finest  boulevards. 

This  has  been  a hasty  look,  at  one  of  the 
finest  cities  in  the  world,  and  though  obliged 
to  leave  many  sights  unseen,  yet  we  were 
glad  of  this  glimpse  of  the  gay  city.  There 
is  far  less  evidence  of  the  war  and  civil  strife, 
than  might  be  expected.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  blackened  ruins  of  the  Tuileries, 
Hotel  de  Ville,  etc.,  you  would  ride  about  in 
various  directions,  and  see  but  few  traces  of 
the  terrible  destruction. 

Sitting  in  a dining  saloon,  near  the  Tuileries, 
we  noticed  a handsome  gilt  mirror,  cracked 


CROSSING  TEE  CHANNEL. 


249 


by  a bullet  that  bad  come  through  the  win- 
dow and  lodged  in  the  frame.  But  the  marks 
of  devastation  have  been  so  far  erased,  that 
one  is  not  reminded  of  it  so  much  as  in  Stras- 
burg.  About  noon  we  took  the  train  for 
Dieppe,  to  cross  over  to  New  Haven,  this  be- 
ing considered  one  of  the  most  favorable 
places,  for  crossing  the  much  dreaded  channel. 

We  passed  through  Rouen,  arriving  at 
Dieppe  in  time  to  look  around  a little  before 
the  steamer  left.  We  had  laid  ourselves  away 
on  the  shelves  around  the  saloon  as  comfor- 
tably as  possible,  and  were  composing  our- 
selves to  sleep,  when  the  passengers  by  the 
last  train  arrived ; and  it  was  rather  amusing 
to  hear  their  remarks,  as  they  commented 
upon  the  accommodations,  or  sought  to  lie 
down  upon  that  part  of  the  shelf  already 
occupied.  At  last  all  was  quiet,  and  we  fell 
asleep,  to  wake  up  near  the  coasts  of  Old 
England.  The  chalk  cliffs  were  in  sight  when 
we  went  on  deck,  and  in  a short  time  the 
steamer  was  beside  the  wharf,  at  the  railroad 
station. 

The  custom  house  officers  merely  inquired 
if  we  had  any  wine  or  tobacco,  and  passed 
us  at  once.  We  now  stand  for  the  first  time 
on  the  shores  of  dear  England,  which  we  have 
always  so  longed  to  tread,  and  are  soon  fly- 
ing on  an  express  train,  through  beautiful 


250 


HOMEWARD. 


fields  and  pastures,  witli  flocks  of  cattle  and 
sheep  feeding  upon  the  hills,  or  reclining  in 
the  shade. 

In  a few  hours  we  had  passed  the  Crystal 
Palace  and  were  entering  London,  upon  a 
railroad  higher  than  the  tops  of  the  houses. 
It  soon  descends  to  the  leATel  of  other  roads, 
and  the  train  stops  in  Cannon  street  railway 
Station. 


XXX. 

SIGHTS  IN  LONDON. 

We  secured  lodgings  on  St.  Andrew’s  hill, 
in  a central  and  desirable  location.  St.  Paul’s 
is  near  by,  and  we  passed  it  several  times 
each  day,  but  it  never  inspired  quite  the  same 
feelings  of  admiration,  that  it  would  have 
done,  if  we  had  seen  it  before  St.  Peter’s  of 
Rome.  It  is  built  of  a light  Portland  stone, — 
now  nearly  black,  from  the  dust  and  smoke 
of  ages.  It  is  said  to  be  nearly  half  a mile  in 
circuit,  and  the  cross  which  surmounts  the 
cupola  is  384  feet  from  the  ground.  It  is 
built  in  the  form  of  a cross,  the  dome  rising 
over  the  centre.  There  are  many  handsome 
monuments,  among  which  we  noticed  those 
of  Johnson,  Nelson,  Cornwallis,  Moore,  Well- 
ington and  the  noble,  self-denying  Howard. 


Cannon  Street  Railway  Station. 


LONDON  TOWER. 


253 


After  a visit  to  Victoria  docks,  where  are 
brought  together  the  products  of  every  part 
of  the  world,  we  went  to  the  Tower  of  Lon- 
don, so  intimately  connected  with  the  history 
of  England  in  other  days.  We  waited  till  a 
party  of  about  half  a dozen  was  made  up,  and 
then  were  sent,  under  the  leadership  of  a 
guide,  to  make  the  rounds.  These  guides,  of 


TOWER  OF  LONDON. 


which  there  are  a number,  are  retired  sold- 
iers. They  wear  a peculiar  and  fantastic 
costume,  and  the  one  who  accompanied  our 
party,  had  a fund  of  wit.  In  the  hall  con- 
taining the  armor,  there  were  many  of  the 
effigies  of  knights  wearing  armor,  mounted 
on  wooden  horses  neatly  covered  with  horse- 


254 


HOMEWARD. 


skins  and  looking  quite  life-like.  “ These  hor- 
ses,” remarked  the  guide,  very  quaintly,  “ re- 
quire no  feeding  or  grooming.”  One  of  the 
party  said,  “ I suppose  you  have  seen  active 
service  ? ” “ In  my  younger  days  I used  to  be 
very  active — with  a knife  and  fork,”  he  re- 
plied dryly. 

In  the  Crystal  Palace  is  a very  character- 
istic and  beautiful  painting,  representing  this 
same  guide  showing  the  execution  block  and 
axe  to  a party  of  ladies.  They  were  gathered 
round  him,  just  as  we  were  to-day,  and  listen- 
ing with  breathless  silence  to  his  words.  The 
old  man,  with  grave  and  earnest  face,  is  the 
central  figure  in  the  group.  His  forefinger  is 
pointing  to  the  block,  which  still  bears  the 
marks  of  the  executioner’s  axe.  The  var- 
ious emotions  of  the  party  are  pictured  in 
their  faces.  One,  a young  lady,  looks  quite 
horrified. 

Here  are  preserved  thumb-screws  and 
other  instruments  of  torture.  In  one  hall  are 
stored  many  thousand  modern  rifles  ready 
for  use.  In  another  we  saw  the  shields, 
swords,  spears,  pistols  and  guns  of  different 
ages.  J.  Colt’s  name  had  always  been  coup- 
led with  the  invention  of  revolvers,  but  here 
the  guide  showed  one,  made  as  he  claimed, 
many  years  before  Colt  was  born.  This  spot 
is  intimately  connected  with  the  dark  parts  of 


ENGLAND'S  CROWNS  AND  JEWELS. 


255 


England’s  history.  “ Here,  kings,  queens, 
patriots,  poets,  and  martyrs  have  suffered  tor- 
ture and  death  in  the  most  horrid  forms.” 

The  jewel  room  contains  five  crowns;  and 
the  Baptismal  and  Sacramental  service  for  the 
royal  family,  which  is  valued  at  four  millions 
of  pounds.  Victoria’s  crown  is  said  to  he 
worth  more  than  a million  pounds. 

“ A crown,  golden  in  show,  is  but  a wreath  of  thorns; 

Brings  danger,  troubles,  cares,  and  sleepless  nights.” 

We  saw  an  equestrian  figure  of  Elizabeth, 
dressed  in  the  same  costume  as  she  wore 
when  goingto  St.  Paul’s,  to  return  thanks  for 
her  deliverance  from  the  Spanish  Armada. 

In  the  middle  of  a green  lawn,  is  the  spot 
where  most  of  the  executions  took  place.  A 
room  in  the  white  tower  was  once  occupied  as 
council  chamber.  Here  have  been  planned 
some  of  the  most  important  and  tyrannical 
acts  connected  with  English  history.  We 
saw  the  room  where  by  the  order  of  Richard 
III.,  his  two  little  nephews  were  suffocated, 
between  two  feather  beds,  and  the  guide 
pointed  out  the  spot  where  their  bodies  were 
buried,  beneath  the  landing  of  the  stairs. 
After  incarceration  here,  Sir  Thomas  Moore 
went  forth  and  cheerfully  laid  his  head  upon 
the  block,  perhaps  the  same  block  that  we  see 
to-day.  Thomas  Cromwell  was  not  so  willing 


256 


HOMEWARD. 


to  yield  up  his  life,  but  begged  for  mercy  so 
earnestly, -as  to  bring  tears  from  Henry  VIII. 
Cranmer,  Ridley,  Latimer  and  other  good 
men  suffered  here. 

Though  we  saw  the  exterior  of  Westmin- 
ster, we  were  never  in  its  neighborhood  when 
it  was  convenient  to  enter,  and  gaze  upon  the 
costly  monuments  of  kings,  queens,  and  the 
great  and  good  whose  ashes  rest  there. 

We  spent  as  much  time  as  possible  in  the 
British  Museum.  It  is  rich  in  antiquities 
from  Greece  and  Rome,  Nineveh  and  Egypt, 
Herculaneum  and  Pompeii.  The  library  con- 
tains more  than  a million  of  books,  10,000 
maps,  30,000  manuscripts,  and  5,000  parch- 
ments. Here  are  the  original  manuscripts  of 
Pope’s  Iliad  and  Tasso,  and  letters  written 
by  Napoleon,  Peter  the  Great,  Calvin,  Luther, 
and  Shakespeare ; and  to  all  this,  every  one 
is  admitted  free. 

The  Crystal  Palace  is  about  eight  miles 
from  London  by  railroad.  A colonnade,  eight 
hundred  feet  long,  and  covered  with  a glass 
roof,  extends  from  the  station  to  the  entrance. 
Walking  along  this  slightly  ascending  colon- 
nade, admiring  the  statuary  which  fills  its 
niches,  you  have  a fine  view  of  the  palace, 
and  the  beautiful  grounds  in  front.  Though 
surprised  at  its  vastness,  it  is  no  doubt  much 
larger  than  it  seems. 


CRYSTAL  PALACE. 


Sydenham  Palace  Fountains. 


CRYSTAL  PALACE. 


259 


Ascending  a flight  of  steps,  you  enter,  and 
passing  through  several  courts,  filled  with 
merchandise,  reach  the  main  aisle.  Before 
you,  in  the  centre  of  the  building,  is  a mag- 
nificent fountain,  sending  its  water  thirty  feet 
in  the  air.  A succession  of  glass  bowls  are 
arranged  around  it,  to  catch  the  water  in  its 
descent,  thus  arresting  its  fall,  and  dashing 
the  silvery  spray  in  every  direction. 

The  Crystal  Palace  as  now  seen,  seems  to 
combine  the  two  ideas  of  a museum  and 
sales-room.  Here  are  relics  of  the  past,  gath- 
ered from  Egypt,  Greece  and  Rome,  sculpture, 
paintings,  etc.  Then  there  are  long  rows  of 
carriages,  and  other  articles,  collected  from 
the  manufactories  of  the  whole  world,  and 
exposed  here  for  show  and  sale.  The  exhibi- 
tion at  Kensington  gardens,  is  much  more 
extensive,  and  shows  more  activity  and  en- 
terprise. 

It  was  rather  amusing,  after  once  initiated, 
to  see  how  the  door-keepers  at  the  House  of 
Parliament  try  to  keep  one  out,  and  yet  let 
you  in  when  they  find  out  exactly  what  they 
can  make  out  of  you. 

“ Impossible ! ” said  the  first.  “ It  is  a 
special  occasion  and  every  seat  is  full.” 
We  importuned, — should  leave  on  the  mor- 
row,— only  chance.  “ Do  you  know  any 
member,  from  whom  you  could  get  a pass?” 


m 


IIOMEWAED. 


“No;  not  one,”  we  replied.  “Well,  pass  on; 

go  to  Mr. , the  chief  door-keeper,  lie  takes 

a great  interest  in  Americans,  and  may  find 
some  way  to  get  you  in.”  Glad  to  get  past 

the  fir>t  harrier,  with  Mr. s,  name  we 

passed  the  second  and  soon  stood  at  the 

entrance  to  the  House  of  Commons.  Mr. , 

the  chief  door-keeper,  received  us  kindly, 
hut  could  not  possible  get  us  in  that  night. 
“Couldn’t  get  a seat  for  any  money .”•  We 
plead.  “Well,  step  aside  and  sit  down  there. 
Perhaps  there  will  be  a chance.”  Hoping 
something  would  turn  up,  we  gladly  took 
the  seat.  Just  then  the  house  was  divided, 
or  in  other  words  they  took  a vote,  and  all 
came  marching  out  through  one  door  and 
into  the  other,  giving  an  opportunity  for  the 
tellers  to  count.  A young  man,  sitting  near, 
asked  if  we  desired  to  go  into  the  house. 
We  replied  in  the  affirmative.  “ Impossible, 
you  couldn’t  get  in  for  a guinea  to-night,” 
said  he.  A guinea  seemed  too  much,  but 
if  he  could  get  us  in  he  should  he  paid  for 
his  trouble.  He  would  go  and  see  if  it  could 
he  managed.  Returning  shortly,  he  bade  us 
follow,  and  slipping  the  fee  into  his  hand,  we 
were  ushered  into  the  gallery  where  there 
were  only  two  or  three  other  persons. 

What  particularly  impressed  us,  about  this 
very  beautiful  hall,  was  the  mode  of  lighting 


( Now  erected  across  the  Thames  at  Charing  Cross.) 


THE  HOUSE  OF  COMMONS. 


261 


it.  It  was  as  light,  as  day,  and  yet  no  lamp 
or  gas  could  be  seen.  The  ceiling  seemed 
composed  of  ground  glass  and  the  gas  was 
burning  beyond  it.  Thus  screened  oft*,  it 
threw  down  a clear,  soft  light.  There  was 
nothing  of  special  interest  before  the  House, 
and  we  soon  left. 


XXXI. 

LONDON  PARKS  AND  CHURCHES. 

We  must  not  leave  London  without  seeing 
one  of  its  fine  parks.  Regent’s,  one  of  the 
largest,  is  a long  distance  off,  and  though 
there  are  no  street  cars,  there  is,  what  you  will 
find  in  no  other  city  in  the  world, — a system 
of  underground  railroads.  A short  walk 
brings  us  to  the  station,  and,  buying  a ticket, 
we  are  directed  upon  which  side  to  descend 
to  avoid  crossing  the  track.  The  platform 
and  cars  are  lighted  with  gas.  There  is  a 
double  track,  and  the  diminutive  engines  go 
shrieking  past  each  other,  dragging  their 
little  trains  at  full  speed,  usually  below  the 
surface,  sometimes  beneath  the  open  heavens, 
but  often  plunging  into  long  arches  under 
the  streets  and  houses.  Arrived  at  your 
destination,  you  ascend  the  steps  upon  the 


262 


HOMEWARD. 


same  side  of  the  road,  and  pass  out  into  day- 
light. The  railroads  are  so  numerous,  that 
you  may  easily  and  quickly  reach  any  neigh- 
borhood you  desire.  A few  minutes  brings 
us  to  the  entrance  of  the  park. 

We  took  a Ions;  and  tiresome  walk,  through 
the  extensive  and  beautiful  grounds,  spending 
most  of  our  time  in  the  part  devoted  to  the 
menagerie.  Here  is  one  of  the  finest  collec- 
tions of  animals  in  the  world,  and  containing  a 
far  greater  variety  than  Ave  liaA’e  before  seen 
in  one  place. 

On  Sunday  Ave  went  to  hear  Spurgeon  and 
Newman  Hall. 

As  we  approached  the  Tabernacle,  there 
Avere  a feAv  tens  of  persons  gathered  upon  the 
steps.  While  those  provided  Avitli  tickets, 
passed  through  a gate,  and  were  admitted  at  a 
side  door,  the  crowd  upon  the  front  steps  Avas 
constantly  and  rapidly  increasing.  Though 
there  was  the  utmost  good  feeling,  yet  those 
nearest  the  doors  maintained  their  position. 
After  long  waiting  and  much  crowding,  Ave 
heard  the  bolts  slide  and  simultaneously  the 
tin  •ee  large  doors  Avere  thrown  open,  and, 
borne  upon  the  tide,  Ave  Avere  carried  forward, 
finding  a convenient  and  comfortable  seat, 
near  the  middle  of  the  house,  directly  in  front 
of  the  pulpit,  or  where  the  pulpit  Avould  be  if 
there  Avere  one.  The  building  is  eliptical, 


HOLBORN  VIADUCT 


i 


MR.  SPURGEON'S  TABERNACLE. 


265 


with  two  galleries,  one  above  the  other,  ex- 
tending quite  around  it.  The  fronts  of  the 
galleries,  are  attached  to  light  iron  pillars 
painted  white,  which  support  little  arches  all 
round  the  building'  under  the  roof.  In  the 
centre  of  the  roof  are  five  octagonal  windows. 
There  is  no  pulpit.  The  front  of  the  platform 
is  formed  of  three  semicircles,  the  central 
one  projecting  a little. 

Mr.  Spurgeon’s  table  is  not  in  the  front  and 
centre,  but  a little  aslant  and  off  on  one  side, 
leaving  him  room  to  move  about  freely 
while  speaking,  without  the  intervention  of 
anything  between  him  and  his  audience.  We 
were  watching  for  him,  as  he  entered  and 
walked  across  the  platform,  sitting  down  he 
bowed  his  head  upon  his  hand  a moment,  as 
if  invoking  assistance.  He  then  came  forward 
and  in  a very  natural  way  said,  “ Let  us 
pray  ” His  prayer  was  simple,  fervent  and 
comprehensive.  The  first  hymn, — one  of  his 
own  composition, — he  nearly  recited.  A 
chorister  on  the  platfrom,  at  his  left,  led  the 
singing,  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  whole  vast 
assembly  joined  him.  He  then  read  the 
eleventh  chapter  of  John,  giving  paraphrases 
and  brief  explanations  and  applications. 

He  is  a man  rather  below  medium  stature, 
and  slightly  corpulent.  He  seemed  about 
forty-five.  The  upper  part  of  his  face  was 


266 


HOMEWARD. 


shaved,  but  below  and  on  his  chin  were 
whiskers.  He  has  thick  hair  and  a low  fore- 
head. None  of  his  pictures,  however,  do 
him  justice.  When  he  speaks  he  has  a plea- 
asant  expression  that  none  of  the  artists  have 
caught,  though,  some  have  represented  him 
with  his  mouth  open.  His  movements  are 
slow.  He  spoke  without  notes  and  very 
fluently ; yet  it  was  easy  to  see  that  he  often 
brought  a sentence  out  differently  from  what 
he  intended,  when  he  commenced  it. 

Among  several  peculiareties  in  the  use  of 
language  we  noticed,  he  said  of  a “notion”  that 
it  was  “grossly  untrue,”  and  of  our  sins,  that 
they  “ divide  us  from  Hod.  But  his  language 
is  simple,  and  his  tones  natural.  His  chief 
peculiarity  seemed  to  be,  the  use  of  common 
expressions  and  old  sayings. 

“In  what  does  his  great  power  consist?” 
we  asked  ourself  while  listening  to  a good, 
plain,  practical  discourse,  from  John  11:  39 — 
44.  What  he  said  was  not  strange  or  pecul- 
iar, but  just  what  you  would  think  any  one 
might  say.  Beyond  what  has  already  been 
noticed  we  could  discover  nothing  but  great 
earnestness  and  thoughtful  sympathy  with 
all  classes.  His  face  looked  careworn,  as 
well  it  may,  when  we  consider  he  lias  charge 
of  that  large  church,  a college,  and  theologi- 
cal seminary,  an  orphanage,  and  a large  nuin- 


REV.  NEWMAN  TIALL. 


267 


ber  of  out  stations,  missions,  colporters,  etc., 
etc.  After  tlie  service  we  saw  him  for  a few 
minutes,  and  in  private  conversation,  found 
him  very  pleasant  and  sociable. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  went  to  Surrey  Chap- 
el, to  hear  Newman  Hall.  The  church  is 
octagonal  in  form,  and  much  better  lighted 
than  Spurgeon’s.  When  they  commenced 
reading  the  liturgy,  we  feared  there  had  been 
some  mistake,  and  asked  one  sitting  near  if 
it  was  Newman  Hall’s  church.  Half  assured, 
yet  fearing  the  question  had  been  misunder- 
stood, we  looked  for  Mr.  Hall.  It  certainly 
can’t  be  that  very  aged,  white-haired  gentle- 
man in  the  reading-desk,  conducting  the  ser- 
vices. We  had  never  thought  of  him  as  being 
an  old  man;  and  in  a maze  we  began  to  think 
how  long  it  had  been  since  we  first  heard  of 
his  “ Gome  to  Jesus”  and  vainly  endeavored  to 
recall  from  his  father’s  memoir  some  dates,  as 
to  his  father’s  or  his  own  life,  that  would 
throw  light  upon  the  subject,  .lust  then  a tall 
man,  of  middle  age,  entered  and  ascended  to 
the  pulpit.  We  were  not  at  all  pleased  to  see 
this  stranger  come  in, — fearing  an  exchange, 
and  that  we  should  not  hear  Newman  Hall. 
Again  interrogating  our  next  neighbor,  we  ask- 
ed, “Who  is  that?”  “Newman  Hall,”  was 
the  reply.  “Is  that  Newman  Hall?”  And 
his  very  satisfactory  response  was,  “Yes.” 


•268 


HOMEWARD. 


Mr.  Hall  is  a dissenter,  and  of  broad,  catho- 
lic spirit.  Though  he  uses  the  liturgy  he 
does  not  read  prayers.  When,  after  the  ser- 
vice, we  expressed  surprise  that  they  used 
the  liturgy,  he  said,  “We  claim  to  be  the 
only  ones  who  use  it  properly.”  His  theme 
was  “The  gospel  the  bread  of  life.”  The 
only  thing  remarkable  about  the  discourse 
was  its  plainness,  and  great  simplicity.  But 
he  was  in  earnest,  and  interested  every  one 
who  heard  him. 

His  language  is  chaste  and  correct,  show- 
ing him  to  be  a man  of  learning  and  culture. 
When  told  how  much  he  was  honored,  for 
giving  all  of  his  father’s  life, — the  dark  side 
of  the  picture  as  well  as  the  bright, — he  said 
it  was  pretty  hard ; he  sometimes  thought 
people  will  say,  “ He  must  be  a strange  sort 
of  a man,  if  he  had  such  a father  as  that.” 
But  it  was  the  way  his  father  had  left  it,  and 
it  was  necessary,  in  order  to  show  the  work 
of  grace.  We  told  him  it  would  surely  do 

food  wherever  it  was  read,  and  expressed  a 
ope  it  might  be  abridged,  to  bring  it  within 
the  reach  of  all  classes.* 

Like  Spurgeon,  he  is  at  the  head  of  numer- 
ous evangelical  organizations.  He  is  said  to 
have  fifteen  Sunday  schools,  with  some  five 

* “ The  Autobiography  of  Vine  Hall,  Author  of  the  Sin • 
■tier's  Friend is  the  book  referred  to. 


SUBBEY  CHAPEL. 


269 


thousand  children  in  them.  He  has  the  care 
of  missionaries  in  seventeen  localities.  After 
the  Sunday  evening  service,  some  members 
of  his  congregation,  hold  out-door  meetings. 
Connected  with  his  church  are  numerous 
Clothing  Societies,  Industrial  schools,  Tem- 
perance and  Tract  Societies ; besides  all  these 
the  church  contributes  to  other  associations. 
In  this  way,  several  thousand  pounds  are  ex- 
pended yearly,  besides  supporting  the  services 
at  Surrey  Chapel.  Though  burdened,  he 
looks  fresh  and  vigorous,  and  his  conversa- 
tion is  animated  and  hearty 


XXXII. 


NEWCASTLE  OX-TYNE,  THE  LAKES..  ETC. 

Leaving  London  by  the  ten  o’clock  ex- 
press, we  reached  Neweastle-on-Tyne,  at  five 
in  the  afternoon;  travelling  two  hundred  and 
seventy  two  miles  in  seven  hours.  In  this 
day’s  journey,  we  have  passed  through  some 
of  the  highly  cultivated  districts  of  Old  Eng- 
land. The  train  stops  for  a few  minutes  at 
Peterboro,  Doncaster,  York,  and  Durham. 
We  leave  Cambridge  with  its  university  on 
our  right,  and  the  busy  towns  of  Bradford, 
Nottingham,  and  Leeds,  on  our  left.  A scene 
in  Nottingham  market,  is  represented  in  the 
engraving  on  the  opposite  page. 

After  a very  pleasant  visit  of  a week  or 
two  with  numerous  friends  and  relatives, 
I left  the  rest  of  the  party,  and  started 
to  attend  the  meeting  of  the  Irish  General 


TEE  ENGLISH  LAKES. 


273 


Assembly,  in  session  at  Belfast.  I took  a 
through  ticket  across  England  to  Furness-in- 
Barrow,  and  then  by  steamer  to  Belfast ; with 
the  understanding  that  I would  reach  my 
journey’s  end  the  next  morning.  But  im- 
agine my  disappointment  on  reaching  Leeds, 
to  learn  the  steamboat  train  had  left,  and  I 
could  not  proceed  further  till  the  next  day. 
It  however  gave  me  an  opportunity  to  look 
about  the  city,  and  make  a trip  to  the  ruins 
of  an  ancient  abbey,  a few  miles  away.  I also 
determined  to  spend  the  next  day  upon  the 
English  lakes,  which  lie  almost  directly  in 
my  way.  Leaving  Leeds  on  an  early  train, 
I reached  Lakeside  station  at  the  foot  of 
Windermere,  in  time  for  the  steamer,  and 
spent  one  of  the  most  lovely  days  I ever  ex- 
perienced, among  the  lakes.  Windermere  is 
about  ten  miles  long,  if  I mistake  not,  and 
from  half  a mile  to  a mile  wide.  The  scenery 
is  very  beautiful,  reminding  me  more  of  Lake 
George  than  anything  I have  seen.  About 
half  way  up  the  lake,  the  steamer  stops  at 
the  village  of  Bowness,  and  then  proceeds  to 
Ambleside,  at  the  head  of  the  lake.  Here 
you  take  a coach,  and  ride  over  a beautiful 
road,  to  Grasmere,  about  two  miles  distant. 

On  the  way,  you  pass  the  residences  of  Har- 
riet Martineau,  Wordsworth  and  Coleridge. 
Rydal  Hall,  and  Rydal  Mount, 


274 


HOMEWARD 


HOME  OE  WOBDSWORTH. 


In  Norman  Macleod’s  account  of  a visit  to 
the  poet  Wordsworth  he  says: — “We  then 
went  out  and  stood  on  the  lovely  green 
mound  commanding  views  of  Rydal  and 
Windermere;”  and  goes  on  to  relate  the 
conversation  that  passed  between  them.  I 
fancy  I see  these  two  great  men  enjoying 
each  other’s  society  and  the  beauties  of  nature. 

This  is  called  the  most  beautiful  and  inter- 
esting ride,  in  the  lake  district.  Rydal  lake 
is  seen  on  the  west,  a pretty  little  sheet  of 


WORDSWORTH  AND  COLERIDGE. 


water,  perhaps  a mile  or  less  in  circumference. 
Grasmere  is  but  little  larger.  In  the  village 
- Grasmere,  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake,  is 
an  ancient  church  edifice,  with  square  em- 
battled tower.  In  the  church  yard,  a plain 
blue  head-stone,  marks  the  grave  of  the  poet 


GRASSMERE  CHURCH. 

Wordsworth,  and  near  by  is  a neat  monument 
over  the  last  resting  place  of  Coleridge.  On 
the  way  back  to  Aanbleside,  the  residence  of 
the  late  Dr.  Arnold,  the  famous  master  of 
Rugby  school,  was  seen  near  the  foot  of  the 
Western  hills. 


276 


HOMEWABD. 


This  is  the  favorite  region  for  summer  res- 
idences, and  much  wealth  has  been  lavished 
upon  these  naturally  beautiful  landscapes. 
There  are  two  steam  yachts  on  Windermere, 
making  several  trips  each  day.  In  returning, 
I stopped  an  hour  or  two  at  Bowness,  a beau- 
tiful village  on  the  east  shore,  built  on  the 
hillside,  embowered  in  trees,  and  command- 
ing a good  view’  of  lake  and  mountain  see- 
nery.  As  the  steamer  approached  the  w’harf, 
my  attention  was  called  to  “Poet  Close,”  leav- 
ing his  book-stand  and  umbrella  shade,  and 
stealing  along  with  a cat-like  tread  to  the 
steam  yacht.  In  a quiet  and  unobtrusive 
manner  he  offered  for  sale  his  literary  produc- 
tions, in  sheet  and  pamphlet  form.  1 much 
regret  I did  not  purchase  one  of  his  works, 
that  I might  give  a specimen  of  his  rhyme. 
He  has  more  than  once  sought  the  appoint- 
ment of  poet  laureate,  and  still  hopes  the 
government  will  show  such  an  appreciation 
of  his  talent,  as  either  to  give  him  this  office 
or  a pension. 

He  wras  much  flattered  by  a notice  Punch 
gave  him,  though  he  did  not  see  that  the 
style  was  a close  imitation  of  his  own  rhymes, 
and  was  very  indignant  that  Punch  should 
call  his  verses  “doggerel.” 

The  steamer  reached  Lakeside  station,  just 
in  time  for  the  train  to  Furness  Abbev.  This 

V 


ERIN’S  GREEN  ISLE. 


277 


ancient  structure  is  built  of  pale  red  sand 
stone,  in  a deep,  shady  glen.  It  was  founded 
in  1127  and  peopled  from  Normandy.  There 
is  a window  in  good  preservation  of  round 
Norman,  and  another  of  pointed  Gothic  ar- 
chitecture. The  moss  and  ivy  seem  striving 
to  conceal  the  old  stones,  and  hang  in  festoons 
from  tower,  arch  and  turret. 

There  are  several  rival  lines  between 
the  western  shores  of  England  and  Belfast. 
The  steamers  leave  at  five  or  six  o’clock  in 
the  afternoon,  and  cross  the  Irish  sea  during 
the  night,  reaching  Belfast  at  six  or  seven  in 
the  morning.  I was  on  deck  soon  after  the 
Irish  coast  was  in  sight,  and  watched  it  with 
interest.  I have  seldom,  if  ever,  looked  upon 
a more  beautiful  prospect.  The  landscape  is 
dotted  with  pretty  white  farm-houses,  and 
the  neatly  cultivated  ridges  are  sloping  and 
green  to  the  water’s  edge,  with  a background 
of  blue  hills  in  the  distance.  I no  longer 
wonder  that  the  Irish  emigrant  sighs  for  his 
green  islet  home. 

As  we  enter  the  harbor,  a busy  scene  greets 
the  eye.  The  steamers  from  Liverpool,  Pice, 
Glasgow  and  Barrow  arrive  about  the  same 
time,  and  moor  in  a row  along  the  wharf,  leav- 
ing again  in  the  evening. 

Belfast  is  an  enterprising  and  handsome 
city,  the  centre  of  trade  for  the  north  of 


278 


HOME  WARD. 


Ireland  and  the  greatest  linen  emporium  in 
the  world.  The  houses  are  built  of  brick 
and  stone,  and  there  are  many  beautiful 
streets  and  fine  buildings.  A ridge  of  high 
hills  majestic  and  beautiful,  extends  along 
the  west  and  north. 

The  linen  factories  are  very  extensive,  a 
single  establishment  employing  2,000  hands. 
But  just  now  the  mills  are  nearly  all  closed, 
the  hands  having  struck,  or  been  ‘‘locked 
out.”  It  is  said  that  25,000  are  out  of  em- 
ployment, and  the  manufacturers  have  pro- 
mised to  yield  to  their  demands,  in  part. 

I easily  found  the  church  where  the  As- 
sembly was  in  session  and  received  a warm 
welcome  from  the  Rev.  James  Gibson,  a class- 
mate, whom  I had  not  seen  since  we  parted 
in  Princeton,  thirteen  years  before,  and  from 
the  Rev.  Hugh  Waddell,  a missionary  of  the 
Irish  church,  I had  parted  with  in  China. 
An  other  friend,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Brown,  had 
gone  home,  expecting  to  see  me  there.  I was 
introduced  to  the  chairman  of  the  Committee 
on  missions,  and  other  leading  members,  some 
of  them  inviting  me  to  accept  their  hospitality, 
and  preach  for  them  on  Sunday.  There  was 
scarcely  any  one  present  besides  the  members. 
Neither  the  moderator,  nor  any  one  else,  who 
spoke  while  I was  present,  commanded  the  at- 
tention of  the  members ; who,  through  it  all, 


THE  IRISH  GENERAL  ASSEMBLY.  279 


continued  to  talk  together  of  other  matters. 
It  was,  with  the  exception  of  a New  England 
town  meeting,  the  noisiest  assembly  I ever 
saw  undertake  to  do  business.  I was  told 
they  had  spent  a day  or  two  discussing  the 
question  whether  churches  should  be  allow- 
ed to  use  organs.  It  speaks  well  for  the 
growing  inteligence  of  the  Irish  Presbyterian 
church  that  when  it  came  to  a vote  there 
was  a tie. 

My  friend  Gibson  took  me  in  a jaunting 
car  to  see  the  interesting  objects  in  the  city 
and  call  on  some  of  his  freinds. 


XXXIII. 

THE  GIANT’S  CAUSEWAY. 

This  Great  natural  curiosity  is  about  fifty 
miles  north  of  Belfast.  The  carriage  road 
round  by  the  coast  is  very  interesting,  but 
time  is  saved  by  taking  the  cars  to  Port 
Rush. 

I arrived  in  the  evening  and  started  the 
next  morning  in  a jaunting  car  for  the  cause- 
way, with  a boy  called  Tom  for  a driver. 

The  Irish  jaunting  car  is  peculiar  to  Ire- 
land. It  is  a two-wheeled  vehicle  with  the 
springs  fastened  to  the  top  of  the  axle  in  a 


home  waiid. 


280 


line  with  the  shafts.  The  shafts  rest  upon 
the  springs  and  the  cart  upon  the  shafts. 
There  are  two  seats  lengthwise  of  the  car, 
one  over  each  wheel.  Between  the  wheels 
is  a box,  high  enough  to  furnish  a support 
for  the  back  of  the  passenger,  and  forming  a 
capacious  receptacle  for  the  baggage.  The 
passengers  sit  back  to  back,  facing  the  sides 
of  the  road,  their  feet  resting  upon  a foot- 
board. Two  may  sit  on  each  side  and  one 
in  front,  making  five  in  all,  for  one  horse. 
And  yet  the  load  is  so  well  balanced  over 
the  axle,  and  the  wheels  are  so  large,  that  it 
seems  easier  for  a horse,  than  to  draw  the 
same  load  on  any  other  carriage  I ever  saw. 
I fell  in  love  with  the  Irish  jaunting  car  almost 
as  much  as  with  the  beautiful  scenery. 

From  Port  Rush  to  the  causeway  is  seven 
miles,  though  Irish  miles  are  pretty  long ; 
some  one  has  said  that  St.  Patrick  measured 
them  in  his  coach,  and  they  are  long  enough 
to  warrant  the  supposition.  Tom  and  I 
jogged  along  in  the  car,  the  road  lying  over 
hill  and  dale,  for  the  most  part,  along  the 
rocky  sea-shore.  As  we  passed  the  castle  of 
Dunluce,  Tom  pointed  to  a little  hill  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  road,  and  told  me  there 
was  where  they  used  to  hang  the  peasantry 
for  the  slightest  crimes,  even  theft.  No  doubt, 
in  olden  times  these  lords  ruled  with  a rod  of 


THE  BANSHEE  OF  BUNLUCE  CASTLE.  281 


iron,  and  though  there  is  great  improvement, 
Ireland  is,  unfortunately,  not  entirely  free 
from  their  despotism.  Tbe  roads  are  hard, 
rocky  and  hilly ; the  farm  houses  small  and 
sparse.  Dunluce  castle  is  four  miles  from 
Port  Rush.  The  farmer,  whose  house  and 
barn  stand  near  by,  pays  Lord , the  pres- 

ent owner,  £'20  per  annum  for  the  privilege  of 
showing  the  ruins  to  visitors,  and  keeps  an 
old  man  for  the  purpose.  I could  not  learn 
what  he  realized  from  the  show.  No  charge 
is  made,  but  every  one  is  expected  to  give 
the  old  man  a shilling. 

Dunluce,  in  historic  and  romantic  associa- 
tions, is  unsurpassed  by  any  ruin  in  Europe. 
It  stands  upon  a jutting  rock  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  separated  from  the 
main  land  by  a chasm  more  than  twenty  feet 
broad,  formerly  spanned  by  a draw-bridge. 
In  old  times  it  must  have  been  impregnable. 
It  was  for  a long  time  one  of  the  strongholds 
of  the  Irish  chieftains,  “ Who  reigned  here  as 
kings,”  as  Tom  said,  when  he  pointed  to 
“ GallowTs  Hill,”  nearly  opposite.  In  the 
castle  is  still  showrn  the  Banshee’s  room. 
This  spirit  is  said  to  assume  the  form  of  a 
wroman.  She  is  usually  attired  in  white, 
with  curling  hair  floating  over  her  shoulders. 
Her  duty  is  to  ■warn  the  family  of  approaching 
misfortune.  She  is  scarcely  ever  seen,  usually 


•282 


HOMEWARD. 


giving  the  warning  by  night  in  a weird  wail, 
which  may  be  heard  at  a great  distance. 

“ The  Banshee  mournful  wails 
In  the  midst  of  the  silent,  lonely  night, 
Plaintive  she  sings  the  song  of  death.” 

This  castle  was  long  held  by  the  McQuil- 
lans, and  the  country  about  has  been  fought 
over  till  the  streams  ran  with  blood. 

“ Here  Erin  once  in  feudal  hour 
Made  foeman  yield  to  Erins’s  power, 

Here  twanged  the  horn  or  echoing  shell 
That  roused  the  clans  from  brake  and  dell.” 

As  we  approached  the  hotel  near  the 
Giant’s  Causeway,  the  working  part  of  the 
community  could  be  seen  in  the  fields,  but 
the  sight  of  a jaunting  car,  bearing  a stranger, 
brought  out  the  drones.  Leaving  their  houses, 
they  all  assembled  at  the  hotel,  and  gave  me 
a warm  welcome,  each  urging  upon  me  his 
little  box  of  specimens  of  rocks.  “Buy 
mine !”  “ All  these  for  a shilling !”  “ I will 

sell  mine  for  a sixpence!”  “Now  you  have 
bought  his ! I showed  you  mine  first.  You 
might,  buy  this  box  of  me  !”  “ I will  sell  you 

mine  for  a sixpence,  and  show  you  all  round,” 
said  one  enterprising  little  fellow, — and  we 
closed  the  bargain  with  him.  There  is  a 
cave,  more  than  one  hundred  yards  long, 
with  the  entrance  from  the  water,  by  boat. 
“ Here,”  said  the  lad,  as  we  passed  some 
imperfectly  formed  columns,  “ here  the  giant 


THE  GIANT’S  CAUSEWAY 


THE  GIANTS  WISHING  CHAIR, 


285 


tried  liis  prentice  hand.”  The  columns  are 
composed  of  trap  rock,  crystalized  without 
exposure  to  the  air,  formed  under  great 
pressure  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  Along 
the  high  banks,  you  see  these  columns  stand- 
ing nearly  perpendicular,  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  high.  Near  the  sea  shore  they  have 
been  broken  off  and  washed  or  carried  away, 
and  you  walk  over  the  ends  and  may  easily 
count  the  sides.  They  are  compactly  pressed 
together  so  that  water  will  not  pass  between 
them,  and  though  of  all  figures,  from  three- 
sided  to  nine-sided,  yet,  strange  to  say,  the 
contiguous  sides  are  always  just  equal.  The 
Giant’s  Well  is  six  inches  deep,  surrounded 
by  nine  equal  sides,  and  the  bottom  is  com- 
posed of  three  hexagons.  “ If  you  take  three 
drinks  from  the  well,”  said  my  little  guide, 
“ and  go  and  sit  in  the  Wishing  Chair,  you 
will  get  your  wish  within  a twelve-month, 
and  if  single  you’ll  get  married,  and  if  married 
you’ll  have  an  addition  to  your  family.”  Down 
upon  the  knees,  and  three  drinks  of  clear,  cold 
water,  and  straight  to  a seat  in  the  Wishing 
Chair.  If  any  one  inquires  as  to  the  result,  1 
have  only  to  say  my  advice  is  “Try  it.” 

The  Wishing  Chair  is  formed  by  a column 
being  broken  a little  lower  than  its  neigh- 
bors, which  are  left  at  a suitable  height  to 
form  a resting-place  for  the  arms  and  back. 


286 


HOMEWARD. 


Pointing  to  a stone  resembling  a human  figure, 
the  boy  .said,  “ That  is  the  Giant’s  Wife,  he 
was  ashamed  of  her  for  marrying  three  times 
while  he  was  still  alive,  so  he  turned  her  to 

stone.” 

He  took  me  to  a locality  where  porphyry, 
quartz  and  opal  are  found.  By  breaking  up 
the  trap  rock,  we  gathered  many  beautiful 
specimens  of  these  stones. 


XXXIV. 

THE  IRISH  SEA  AND  SCOTTISH  HIGHLANDS. 

When  we  returned  from  our  ramble  over 
the  Giant’s  Causeway,  Tom  immediately  har- 
nessed his  horse  to  the  jaunting  car  and 
drove  to  Port  Rush,  arriving  in  time  for  the 
train  to  Londonderry.  The  road  runs  along 
the  coast,  with  occasional  glimpses  and  some- 
times broad  views  of  the  ocean. 

In  Londonderry  I looked  at  some  of  the 
principal  objects  of  interest,  walked  round 
on  the  wall,  and  left  in  the  steamer  for  Glas- 
gow about  six  that  evening.  As  we  steamed 
out  of  the  harbor,  Londonderry  presented  a 
very  pretty  appearance.  It  is  situated  on 
highlands,  at  the  head  of  a small  bay,  with 
wooded  hills  on  either  side. 


Skerryvore  Lighthouse. 


SKERRYVORE  LIGHTHOUSE. 


289 


I watched  the  northern  coast  of  Ireland, 
and  could  identify  Port  Hush  and  the  Giant’s 
Causeway,  just  before  the  darkness  shut  out 
the  land  from  view. 

During  the  evening,  1 fell  into  conversation 
with  some  of  the  passengers.  One,  a farmer 
from  the  North  of  Ireland,  lamented  the 
great  changes  which  had  taken  place  since 
he  was  a boy.  “Formerly,”  said  lie,  “the 
girls  learned  to  spin  and  weave.  Here  is  a 
specimen  of  what  they  used  to  d<>;  this  suit 
(pointing  to  what  he  had  on)  was  spun  and 
woven  by  my  wife.”  “And  does  her  great 
credit,”  I replied,  for  it  was  a tine,  soft  piece 
of  woolen  cloth.  Put  he  grieved  that  the 
girls  no w-a-days  learn  none  of  these  things; 
though  he  acknowledged  they  earned  at 
needle  work  and  in  the  factories,  twice  as 
much  per  day,  as  they  could  only  a few  years 
ago.  This  led  him  and  his  companion  to 
lament,  that  they  had  to  pay  so  much  for 
farmhands.  They  spoke  of  the  time  within 
their  memory,  when  they  could  employ  a 
good  laborer  for  turn  shillings  per  week.  It 
did  not  seem  to  occur  to  them,  that  the  con- 
dition of  the  poor  laborer  was  corresponding- 
ly improved. 

We  leave  the  famous  Skurryvore  light- 
house far  away  to  the  right.  This  beautiful 
structure  is  138^  feet  high,  42  feet,  in  diame- 


•290 


HOMEWARD. 


ter,  at  the  base,  and  16  feet  at  the  tup.  It 
cost  about  87,000  pounds  to  build  it.  Before 
it  was  erected,  a ve">el  was  lost  on  an  average 
each  year. 

Around  the  coasts  of  Great  Britain  are 
two  hundred  and  fifty  two  lighthouses.  They 
are  so  placed,  that  no  matter  in  what  direction 
a ship  is  sailing,  on  the  coast  of  Great  Britain 
and  Ireland,  a light  is  always  visible,  and  at 
times  two  or  three.  The  lights  are  distin- 
guished, either  by  the  color,  revolving  or 
fixed,  double  or  treble  revolving,  and  by  the 
time  which  elapses  between  the  flashes. 

When  I came  on  deck  the  next  morning, 
the  hills  of  Scotland  were  in  sight.  Scotland 
has  a glorious  history.  In  few  other  countries, 
have  the  people  stood  up  so  boldly  for  their 
religious  principles,  and  suffered  so  much  for 
conscience  sake.  I had  always  longed  to 
look  upon  her  hills  and  lakes,  and  tread 
ground  hallowed  by  so  many  historic  and 
sacred  associations.  My  long  cherished  desire 
is  about  to  be  gratified.  We  steam  up  the 
bay,  enter  the  mouth  of  the  Clyde,  and  soon 
land  at  Greenock.  This  was  the  birthplace 
of  James  Watt,  the  inventor  of  the  Steam 
Engine.  His  name  is  embalmed  in  its  history, 
and  needs  not  the  monuments  rising  here  to 
commemorate  it. 

In  the  High  church  burying  ground  is  the 

O v U U 


HIGHLAND  MALY 


-2P1 


grave  of  “Highland  Mary.”  Upon  her  monu- 
ment is  inscribed  these  lines,  from  Burn’s 
sweetest  song,  u To  Mary  in  heaven  — - 

"Ob,  Mary!  dear,  departed  shade! 

Where  is  thy  place  of  blissful  rest?" 

The  tide  being  unfavorable,  we  proceeded 
at  once  to  Glasgow,  by  railway.  The  dis- 
tance is  only  about  twenty  miles,  along  the 
banks  of  the  Clyde,  past  Dunbarton  Castle 
and  other  interesting  spots. 

The  city  of  Glasgow  lies  <>n  both  banks  of 
the  river,  extending  back  over  the  slopes,  and 
crowning  the  summits  of  irregular  ridges  run- 
ning east  and  west.  Though  it  has  an  an- 
cient  history,  it  grew  very  slowly  till  within 
a comparatively  few  years.  Since  the  im- 
provement of  its  harbor,  many  large  ship- 
yards and  other  manufacturing  establishments 
have  sprung  up,  and  the  population  is  now 
reckoned  at  upwards  of  half  a million. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  tours,  that  the  cir- 
cumstances would  allow  me  to  take,  was  what 
is  called  u the  circular  trip,”  through  the 
Hi  ghlands  and  lakes,  to  Edinburgh  and  back 
to  Glasgow. 

1 left  Glasgow  the  same  evening  after  my 
arrival,  and  reached  Ballocli  at  the  foot  of 
the  lake,  in  time  to  see  the  sun’s  last  rays  die 
away  on  Loch  Lomond,  and  have  a pleasant 


HOMEWARD. 


292 

twilight  stroll  along  the  shore.  It  was  well  I 
did,  for  it  was  the  most  favorable  view  I got, 
of  this  really  charming  scenery.  I passed  the 
night  at  the  Temperance  Hotel,  where  the 
accomodation  and  attention  were  all  that  I 
could  desire.  A steamer  was  in  waiting,  to 
take  passengers  by  the  morning  train,  to  the 
head  of  the  lake,  and  though  there  was  every 
prospect  of  a rainy  day,  it  was  my  only 
chance,  and  I started. 

At  the  southern  end,  the  Loch  is  several 
miles  wide,  narrowing  towards  the  north. 
The  steamer  touched  at  several  points  on 
either  side,  winding  among  the  beautiful 
inlets.  We  passed  close  to  the  base  of  Ben 
Lomond,  seeing  something  of  his  gigantic  pro- 
portions, though  a cloud  of  mist  hung  over 
his  brow.  At  Inversnaid  the  passengers  all 
disembarked,  and  rode  in  an  open  carriage, 
or  diligence,  through  the  rain,  across  a bar- 
ren moor,  four  miles,  to  the  head  of  Loch 
Katrine.  The  little  steamer  is  waiting  for 
us,  and  tin1  shower  is  nearly  over  as  we  go 
on  board.  This  lake  supplies  Glasgow  with 
20,000,000  gallons  per  day,  of  the  finest 
water  in  the  world.  It  is  one  of  the  love- 
liest of  the  highland  lochs,  and  famous  as 
the  scene  of  the  Lady  of  the  Lake,  and  of 
Rob  Roy’s  exploits.  We  soon  pass  Rob  Roy’s 
house  and  Ellen’s  Isle. 


“ THE  LADY  OF  THE  LAKE." 


•>93 


To  those  wlio  have  read  the  u Lady  of  the 
Lake?  this  island  has  a hallowed  interest  be- 
yond any  other  spot  in  the  Highlands.  This 
was  the  home  of  the  noble  Ellen  Douglas,  the 
Lady  of  the  Lake. 

The  island  is  thickly  covered  with  trees, 
♦heir  branches  drooping  gracefully  to  the 
water’s  edge.  Fitz  James  had  lost  his  way, 
and  was  wandering  on  the  shore  of  the  main- 
land, when  the  poet  makes  him  say: — 

" I am  alone,  my  bugle  strain 
.May  call  some  straggler  of  the  train.” 

Ellen  heard  the  notes  of  the  bugle,  and  in 
her  little  skiff  quickly  reached  the  shore. 
Fitz  James,  concealed,  viewed  through  the 
branches,  her  lovely  form  : — 

"A  chieftain's  daugli  t er  seemed  the  maid. 

Her  satin  snood,  her  silken  plaid, 

Her  golden  brooch,  such  birth  betrayed  : 

And  seldom  o’er  a breast  so  fair 
Mantled  a plaid  with  modest  care, 

And  never  brooch  the  folds  combined 
Above  a heart  more  good  and  kind. 

Whether  joy  danced  in  her  dark  eye. 

Or  woe  or  pity  claimed  a sigli. 

Or  filial  love  was  glowing  there, 

Or  meek  devotion  poured  a prayer : 

Or  tale  of  injury  called  forth 
The  indignant  spirit  of  the  North, 

Ope  only  passion  unrevealed 

With  maiden  pride  the  maid  concealed; 

Yet  not  less  purely  felt  the  flame, 

0 1 need  T tell  that  passion’s  name." 


HOMEWARD. 


294 


The  island  is  a monument  to  the  memory 
ot*  Ellen  Douglas,  and  will  always  be  venerat- 
ed by  the  good  and  noble  hearted  who  visit 
this  romantic  spot.  It  was  here  that  Ellen 
refused  the  hand  of  Roderick  Dim,  and  while 
refusing,  she  said  : — 

" Rather  through  realms  beyond  the  sea, 

Seeking  the  world's  cold  charity - 
Where  ne'er  was  spoke  a Scottish  word. 

And  ne’er  the  name  of  Douglas  heard 
An  outcast  pilgrim  will  she  rove 
Than  wed  the  man  she  cannot  love." 

Again  leaving  the  steamer,  we  mount  a 
carriage  similar  to  the  one  we  had  before, 
and  ride  through  the  Trossachs.  The  road 
lies  past  a couple  of  lakelets,  winding  among 
mountain  passes,  through  wild  and  beautiful 
scenery  t<>  Callendar. 


r 


XXXV. 


I'] D J X BC RGH - CROSSING  T 1 IE  A T LA N TIC . 

Between  Callendar  and  Edinburgh  the 
road  passes  the  battle-field  of  Bannockburn, 
Stirling  Castle  and  other  spots  made  interest- 
ing by  historic  associations. 

It  was  Saturday  night,  and  after  dark, 
'when  the  train  reached  Edinburgh.  Turning 
away  from  all  its  pulpit  attractions,  i spent 
a quiet  Sabbath  in  Portobello,  the  guest  of 
Charles  Merrilees,  Esq.,  editor  and  proprietor 
of  the  Portobello  Advertiser,  going  with  him 
and  his  family  to  a suburban  church. 

Portobello  has  a fine  beach,  and  is  now 
the  most  popular  watering-place  in  Scotland, 
Hawthornden  and  Roslyn  Castle,  Dalkeith 
Palace  and  Craigmillar  Castle  are  all  places 
of  interest,  and  of  easy  access  from  Por 
tobello. 


HOMEWARD. 


•296 


On  Monday,  meeting  the  rest  of  the  com- 
pany, who  had  come  on  from  Newcastle,  we 
spent  the  day  in  visiting  places  of  interest 
in  the  Scottish  Metropolis. 

Edinburgh  has  as  fine  a site,  as  any  capital 
in  Europe,  and  the  prospect,  from  the  top  of 
the  hills,  is  varied  and  extensive; — 

“ Traced  like  a map  the  landscape  lies 
In  cultured  beauty  stretching  wide  ; 

There  Pentland’s  green  acclivities; 

There  Ocean,  with  its  azure  tide; 

There  Arthur’s  Seat;  and  gleaming  through 
Thy  southern  wing,  Dunedin  blue! 

While  in  the  orient,  Laminer's  daughters, 

A distant  giant  range,  are  seen, 

North  Berwick  Law,  with  cone  of  green. 

And  Bass  amid  the- waters.” 

The  resemblance  of  Edinburgh  to  Athens 
is  often  noticed,  by  travellers  who  have 
visited  both  capitals.  The  distant  view  of 
Athens  from  the  vEgean  Sea,  is  said  to  be 
extremely  like  that  of  Edinburgh  from  the 
Firth  of  Forth. 

Many  of  the  localities  in  and  around  Edin- 
burgh, are  rendered  interesting  by  their  his- 
torical associations,  as  well  as  their  natural 
beauty. 

T1  le  Castle  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  town, 
on  a precipitous  rock,  nearly  four  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Before  the  inven- 
tion of  gunpowder,  it  was  considered  almost 
impregnable.  Here  are  barracks  for  two  thou- 


View  of  Edinburgh  from  the  Castle. 


300 


HOMEWARD. 


means  of  a ladder  which  they  had  brought 
with  them.  Francis,  the  guide,  ascended  first, 
Sir  Andrew  Gray  was  second,  and  Randolph 
himself  third.  Ere  they  had  all  mounted, 
however,  the  sentinels  caught  the  alarm, 
raised  the  cry  of  “Treason!”  and  the  con- 
stable of  the  castle  and  others,  rushing  to 
the  spot,  made  a valiant  though  ineffectual 
resistance.  The  Earl  of  Moray  was  for  some 
time  in  great  personal  danger,  until  the  gal- 
lant constable  was  slain,  when  his  follow- 
ers fled  or  fell  before  the  hands  of  the 
assailants. 

Sir  William  Kirkcaldy  of  Grange  made  a 
gallant  defence  of  the  Castle  on  behalf  of 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots ; on  which  occasion  he 
resisted  the  combined. forces  of  the  Scots  and 
English  for  thirty-three  days,  demanding  no 
parley,  till  the  fortifications  were  battered 
down,  and  the  wells  choked  with  rubbish. 
Even  then,  with  a heroism  truly  chivalrous, 
he  determined  rather  to  fall  behind  the  ram- 
parts, than  surrender  to  his  enemies.  But 
his  garrison,  not  animated  with  the  same 
heroic  courage,  rose  in  mutiny,  and  compelled 
him  to  capitulate,  at  the  sacrifice  of  his  own 
and  his  brother’s  lives. 

The  Castle  is  garrisoned  by  a regiment  of 
Highlanders,  and  I saw  for  the  first  time  their 
fantastic  costume. 


THE  CROWN-ROOM. 


301 


Crossing  tlie  moat  by  the  drawbridge,  and 
passing  through  the  Portcullis  Gate , and  be- 
neath the  ancient  State  ' Prison , we  climb  a 
narrow  staircase  to  the  Crown-room. 

The  insignia  of  Scottish  royalty  consists  of 
a Crown,  Sceptre,  Sword  of  state,  and  Lord 
Treasurer’s  rod  of  office. 

These  relics  have  an  interesting  history. 
When  James  VI.  ascended  the  English  throne, 
he  left  these  regal  emblems,  as  it  proved,  a 
source  of  vexation  to  their  guardians. 

During  the  troublous  times  of  the  Com- 
monwealth, Edinburgh  Castle  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  English,  so  that  on  the  6th  of 
June,  1651,  the  last  day  on  which  the  Scottish 
Parliament  sat,  they  directed  Earl-Murray  to 
take  the  regalia  to  his  castle  of  Dunnotar  and 
keep  it  till  further  orders.  Subsequently, 
when  he  was  a prisoner  in  England,  and  his 
castle  was  likely  to  be  taken,  these  emblems 
of  royalty  were  saved  by  the  ingenuity  and 
courage  of  his  mother.  Acting  in  concert 
with  the  wife  of  the  governor  of  the  castle, 
and  the  Kev.  James  Granger,  she  contrived, 
at  much  personal  risk,  to  convey  these  articles 
to  the  minister’s  house,  where  they  were  con- 
cealed in  a double  bottomed  bed,  till  Mr. 
Granger  had  an  opportunity  to  inter  them  in 
his  church. 

Their  hiding  place  was  kept  a profound 


302 


HOMEWARD. 


secret  until  the  Restoration,  when  Mr.  Gran- 
ger communicated  it  to  Charles  II. 

Many  of  the  Scotts  felt  that  by  the  Union 
with  England,  they  had  lost  their  national 
independence.  So  deep  was  the  sentiment, 
and  so  great  the  agitation,  that  the  government 
no  doubt  thought  it  wise,  to  remove  these  ob- 
jects from  the  sight  of  the  people.  They 
were  therefore  placed  in  an  oaken  chest,  which 
was  deposited  in  a vaulted  room  with  iron 
door  and  grated  windows — the  present  Crown- 
room.  As  the  regalia  was  no  longer  to  be 
seen,  the  people  thought  it  was  no  longer  in 
existence,  or  had  been  taken  to  England, 
and  as  time  passed  on,  it  was  altogether  for- 
gotten. 

In  1794  the  room  was  forced  open  by  a 
special  warrant,  but  the  old  oak  chest  was 
some  how  disregarded  and  the  regalia  was 
not  found.  In  1817,  a committee,  including 
Sir  Watter  Scott,  commanded  the  King’s 
smith  to  force  open  the  old  chest,  and  to 
their  great  joy,  they  found  the  various  articles, 
just  as  they  had  been  left  more  than  a hun- 
dred years  before. 

We  also  visited  a small  apartment  known 
as  Queen  Mary’s  room.  Here  James  VI  was 
born,  and  some  of  the  furniture  is  the  same 
that  Mary  used. 

Descending  the  hill  we  passed  John  Knox’s 


TEE  MURDER  OF  RICGIO. 


303 


house,  where  he  lived  from  1 560  till  his  death 
in  1572. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill  we  took  a carriage, 
and  drove  to  Holyrood  palace.  Strolling 
through  the  picture  gallery  and  halls,  we 
soon  sought  Queen  Mary’s  apartments,  which 
remain  very  much  as  when  left  by  the  un- 
fortunate Queen.  In  her  bed-room  is  the  bed 
and  other  furniture  which  she  used.  We  were 
shown  her  work  box  and  other  trinkets,  among 
which  were  specimens  of  her  needle-work.  On 
one  side  of  the  room  is  the  door  of  the  secret 
passage,  by  which  the  conspirators  entered, 
and  adjoining,  is  the  cabinet,  or  closet,  where 
they  found  their  victim,  Riccio.  It  is  said, 
that  when  he  saw  they  sought  his  life,  he 

fot  behind  the  Queen,  seeking  her  protection. 

te  received  several  stabs,  while  in  her  pre- 
sence, and  was  then  dragged  through  her 
bed-room,  and  murdered  near  the  entrance  of 
the  audience  chamber,  receiving  in  all  fifty- 
six  stabs.  His  blood-stains  still  mark  the  spot. 

We  climbed  to  the  top  of  Arthur’s  Seat, 
a hill  about  eight  hundred  feet  high,  and 
commanding  a fine  view  of  country,  city 
and  sea.  Nearly  opposite  the  Royal  Hotel 
in  the  Princess  Street  gardens,  an  elegant 
gothic  tower  has  been  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Sir  Walter  Scott.  This  is  without  excep- 
tion the  prettiest  monument  we  have  seen,  in 


304 


HOMEWARD. 


F rom  Edinburgh  we  go  to  Glasgow.  These 
two  great  towns  are  on  opposite  sides  of  Scot- 
land and  only  forty  seven  miles  apart.  We 
are  a little  over  an  hour  in  reaching  Glasgow, 
getting  another,  and  as  it  proved  the  last 
glimpse  of  Scottish  life  and  seenery,  for  on 
the  twenty  second  day  of  June  we  sailed  in 
the  Steamer  Australia  for  the  United  States. 

We  went  on  board  Saturday  morning,  and 
in  the  evening  were  far  out  on  the  ocean. 
With  the  captain’s  permission,  the  passenger’s 


all  our  long  journey  and  sight  seeing.  It  is 
two  hundred  feet  high  and  cost  £15,650. 


SIR  IV ALTER  SCOTT ’s  MONUMENT. 


RELIGIOUS  SERVICES  ON  TEE  STEAMER.  305 


were  invited  to  unite  in  asking  for  the  divine 
blessing  and  protection  during  tlie  voyage, 
across  the  boisterous  Atlantic.  The  services 
consisted  of  reading,  singing,  and  prayer,  and 
were  continued  throughout  the  voyage,  and 
attended  by  nearly  all  the  passengers,  not 
excepting  a family  of  Jews. 

Small  hymn  books,  provided  before  em- 
barking, were  passed  round,  and  the  services 
were  conducted  in  turn  by  several  Christian 
gentlemen. 

On  Sunday  we  were  off  the  coast  of  Ireland, 
and  took  on  more  passengers,  especially  in 
the  steerage.  In  the  forenoon,  we  held  a 
service  among  the  passengers  on  deck,  and 
distributed  tracts.  A gentleman  for  twen- 
ty-five years  connected  with  the  American 
Bible  Society,  and  filling  an  important  post 
in  the  Bible  House,  was  on  his  way  back 
from  a visit  to  relatives  in  England.  He  ex- 
horted the  emigrants,  as  a fellow  emigrant, 
speaking  from  experience,  entreating  them 
before  the  green  shores  of  their  own  native 
land  faded  from  their  sight,  to  make  a solemn 
resolution  to  abandon  the  use  of  intoxicating 
drinks.  With  his  head  bared,  his  silvery 
locks  tossed  by  the  wind,  holding  his  Bible  in 
his  hand  and  gesticulating  earnestly,  his  ven- 
erable form  stood  out  against  the  sky,  mak- 
ing a picture  never  to  be  forgotten. 


306 


HOMEWARD. 


Every  evening  just  before  the  lights  were 
extinguished,  reading  and  games  were  laid 
aside,  and  all  seemed  to  enjoy  the  evening 
hymn  and  unite  in  the  evening  prayer.  We 
encountered  the  usual  amount  of  fog,  and 
though  the  last  days  of  June,  it  was  so  cold 
on  deck  as  to  make  an  overcoat  or  shawl  quite 
comfortable. 

The  morning  of  the  fonrth  of  July  finds  us 
off  Boston.  We  had  hoped  to  spend  this  day 
at  home,  but  have  nearly  a day’s  steaming  to 
reach  New  York.  We  are  on  deck  early. 
There  is  a shower  directly  ahead,  while  in 
the  east  the  sun  is  just  beginning  to  redden 
the  horizon.  The  forked  lightning  is  play- 
ing across  the  clouds  ahead,  and  those  at  the 
zenith  are  touched  with  golden  tints. 

The  red  streak  along  the  eastern  horizon 
grows  redder,  and  the  golden  tints  spread  in 
that  direction.  The  clouds  above  break  and 
float  away,  revealing  the  azure  sky,  just  as  the 
glorious  orb  of  day  appears,  for  a moment 
gilding  with  glory  the  specks  and  streaks 
of  cloud  in  his  path,  and  disappears  again. 

The  shower  has  changed  the  wind,  and  the 
sailors  are  hauling  round  the  yards,  that  the 
sails  may  catch  the  light  breeze  springing  up. 
The  lightning  is  seen  faintly  and  at  longer 
intervals,  and  a steamer  from  New  York  is 
passing  not  far  away  on  our  left.  In  a few 


AT  HOME. 


307 


moments  more  the  sun  lias  emerged  from 
the  clouds  and  is  shining  forth  in  all  his 
glory. 

This  is  the  first  day  since  leaving  Glasgow 
that  we  have  not  needed  overcoats  when  on 
deck.  During  the  day  we  saw  steamers  and 
other  vessels,  and — land  ! We  were  watch- 
ing for  it  long  before  it  could  be  seen,  and 
saw  it  come  in  sight,  dim  and  cloud-like 
in  the  distance,  as  it  looked  more  than  twelve 
years  ago  fading  from  sight ! That  evening 
we  anchored  off  Staten  Island,  and  watched 
the  fireworks,  of  which  there  were  fine  ex- 
hibitions directly  opposite  where  we  lay. 

We  could  see  the  rockets  from  New  York, 
and  other  places,  and  the  “Australia”  sent  up 
her  share.  While  enjoying  such  a brilliant 
display  on  the  earth  the  heavens  seemed  to 
set  up  a rivalry.  Bright  streaks  of  lightning 
shot  from  cloud  to  cloud  or,  in  zigzag  course, 
stood  out  in  ladders  of  light,  and  at  short 
intervals  magnificent  flashes  made  the  heav- 
ens seem  all  ablaze. 

The  next  morning  we  entered  the  harbor 
and  reached  at  last  our  native  land.  No  long- 
er Homeward  but  at  Home. 

“ Our  wand'rings  now  are  o'er. 

The  toilsome  journey  past. 

The  longed  for  haven  reach'd, 

And  we  .are  home  at  last.” 


PRINTED 

AT  THE  OFFICE  OF  THE  CHINESE  CHILD'S  PAPER. 
SHANGHAI,  CHINA. 


#tbn'  Moths 


BY  THE  SAME  AUTHOR. 

If  !^I  ^ fe  i:  M I ^ i 

A TRANSLATION  OF  THE  NEW  TESTAMENT 

FBOM  GALATIANS  TO  KEVELATION. 

This  work  was  done  to  complete  the  New  Testament 
which  had  been  left  unfinished  by  the  death  of  the  trans- 

ators. 


A HYMN  AND  TUNE  BOOK 
Second  edition  revised  and  enlarged.  This  work  consists 
of  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  hymns  with  appropriate  Tunes, 
The  music  was  selected  and  arranged  by  Mrs.  Farnham. 


'b  m A ® 

THE  CHILD'S  PAPER 


(In  Chinese) 

Isa  monthly  magazine  of  sixteen  pages  profusely  illus- 
trated. 


IS  $ IB 


THE  CHINESE  PRIMER. 

Contains  more  than  one  hundred  illustrations  with 
large  clear  characters  cut  exprssly  for  this  book. 


« « IB  f 


THE  FIRST  READER 

Consists  of  a series  of  simple  reading  lessons  with  num- 
erous illustrations. 


m m if  ¥ 

THE  FIRST  CLASS  BOOK. 

This  is  a school  Reader  in  which  the  five  hundred  and 
tweny-oue  characters  most  frequently  occuring  in  the 
language  are  used  and  defined.  These  characters  are  esti- 
mated to  constitute  nine  elevenths  of  the  ivhole  literature. 


